cv67

383 the cheapest, then BBC....then the LS3 conversion.
Dont count out a big ci sbc as an option, number of 400 blocks out there, stroke to your hearts content.
415, 421, 427, 434 etc. Big power without the weight. No it wont be a 496 but your tires will have issues anyways with a stout sbc.
Have trouble keeping M/Ts on the road with a wimpy 383.

jb78L-82

Exactly....^^^^

Back in the day, BBC were needed to make 435 Gross HP.....which is no issue today from a 355/383

A 383 SBC can make big gross HP easily and to the point above, BBC making BIG GROSS HP with today modern parts in a C3 chassis involves major traction issues to make use of the power, not to mention breaking parts left and right............AND the weight penalty

worship79

I'll make a more detailed list of my options in this side of the world and what I might consider shipping from the US.

As for the EFI: it's for three reasons:
1) Wanting to modernize and improve driveability,
2) Rid the hard cornering issues of my edelbrock,
3) The challenge.

I have a hunch going efi could mean might as well swapping in an LS based engine.

My 383 made 450 fwhp, but had some of the basics wrong (as a learnt the expensive way) and lacked a few things I really should have done the first time such as a roller cam, full roller rockers, air gap intake and probably some better or ported heads.

Note: since my heads will have to be rebuilt, I could consider porting them...

worship79

Before I forget: I have the following suspension upgrades:

Front
Poly bushings all round
shock tower brace
VBP #550 springs
Thicker sway bar (1 1/4" I think)
Rack and pinion steering
17x8" wheels with 245/45 tires

Rear
Global west offset trailing arms
poly diff mount
poly bushings all round
VBP compositie #370 lbs monoleaf
VBP aluminum crossmember reinforcement discs
longer spring bolts
adjustable strutrods
18x10 wheels with 295/35 tires

And... there is a 496 for sale in the region. But also an LS3 and just now a LS2 complete for rebuild with LS1 cam. This might become quite the list

jb78L-82

Nice suspension upgrades...probs was a pretty good steering and handling C3...very similar to my setup as well

worship79

My new engine builder came to the conclusion that my engine failure was not due to detonation, lack of cooling or oiling, but because of an assembly error.

When putting together the rotating assembly I failed to check piston to crank clearance. During normal driving this was no issue, however during the last flat out run the centrifugal forces were -apparently- large enough for the piston skirts to hit the crank.
This does explain several other pistons having (hairline) cracks in the skirts.

So kids: even if it's a kit, your crank was professionally installed and your rods and pistons were assembled by the same company installing the crank... always check your clearances.

And make sure you know which you have to check, as I did not know this.

jb78L-82

Wow^^^^.

BUT you said you drove the engine for 6 years as a 383? It took 6 years of driving for the piston crank interference to detonate the engine? That seems like an awfully long time for the failure to occur to me...................Is it possible that the tolerances were fine for the first 5 years and something changed over time?

Kacyc3

^ Agreed
Crate engine will be you quickest and easiest to get back on the road.
Running LS will be quickest/cheapest way to efi.. the sloppy mechanics guys are making stupid hp adding a turbo to stock junkyard LS engines
Big Block is cool but gets expensive quick...

worship79

jackson

It seems Typical Hypereutectic alloys are inherently Less Expansive & inherently Weaker ...Than the inherently Stronger and inherently More Expansive Typical Forging aluminum alloys.

Given the above, and the OP's expert's finding there was assembly error (inadequate piston-to-crank clearance) … perhaps OP's mystery motor might've failed even earlier had it been assembled with Forged pistons ? Perhaps?

"Reality is something none of us can stand, at any time."
Alfred Hitchcock