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Follow up: I re-wired as I drew on my diagram. It was easy as I just took my original alternator (+) wire (this wire was spliced to the voltage regulator wire and the horn relay wire) and attached it to the new junction block along with my two 4 gauge wires; one leading to the alternator and one leading to the starter.
This seems to have solved the over voltage issue as my voltage (measured at the battery) at idle is now 14.4 and under full load is14.38. I think that is within specified limits. However my stock ammeter is still wonky. It reads negative 5 when engine is off. When running, it reads negative 10 and under full load, it reads negative 15. There was no third wire in the splice as shown on the MAD enterprises Original Chevy System diagram (leading to the ammeter). So, I don't know where the ammeter gets its input and therefore I have no idea how to fix it. I guess a voltmeter is the answer. Lol. Buying one now.
One lead should be on the horn relay and the other lead should be on a splice part way between the horn relay and the solenoid. I think the horn relay wire is black with a white stripe and the other wire will be black. Both have a fusible link on the end where they connect. You'll want to at least disconnect the ammeter wires if nothing else. It sounds like you left the original wire from the horn relay to the solenoid so you likely want to eliminate it too.
You still need to chase down those ammeter leads and make sure they're not connected to anything. Don't just ignore them since they're obviously hooked up to the system somewhere.
Originally Posted by Parodi Cigar
Follow up: I re-wired as I drew on my diagram. It was easy as I just took my original alternator (+) wire (this wire was spliced to the voltage regulator wire and the horn relay wire) and attached it to the new junction block along with my two 4 gauge wires; one leading to the alternator and one leading to the starter.
This seems to have solved the over voltage issue as my voltage (measured at the battery) at idle is now 14.4 and under full load is14.38. I think that is within specified limits. However my stock ammeter is still wonky. It reads negative 5 when engine is off. When running, it reads negative 10 and under full load, it reads negative 15. There was no third wire in the splice as shown on the MAD enterprises Original Chevy System diagram (leading to the ammeter). So, I don't know where the ammeter gets its input and therefore I have no idea how to fix it. I guess a voltmeter is the answer. Lol. Buying one now.
I would be doing the same in my '75 but Zip doesn't have one for 75-76 yet.
Please correct me if I am wrong, but I purchased all new OEM gauges for my 73.
I was told that the 73 has a true volt meter and not an amp meter.
If that is the case, couldn't you just replace the 68-72 amp meter for a 73 OEM volt meter?
Please correct me if I am wrong, but I purchased all new OEM gauges for my 73.
I was told that the 73 has a true volt meter and not an amp meter.
If that is the case, couldn't you just replace the 68-72 amp meter for a 73 OEM volt meter?
