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Hey guys, so i'm at the point where I have to choose between these 2 cams, my motor is a 383 (actually a 388) with 10:1 Pistons, Scat Crank, Aluminum Heads (flow 205), air gap rpm intake, mighty demon 750 carb. Wish I knew more to give more info on heads and block but I dont at the moment. I am deciding between these 2 intakes and am not sure which I should get. I want the car to have good street manners and i'm not sure if the second is too aggressive. Also have set of flowtech headers. Just let me know which one you guys would pick! Thanks!
Definately the second one......the first is barely a 350/350 L46 cam.......I would put a lot more lift in this....like .500 or so......the .050 numbers are good.......108 centerline is great for the street and will sound snotty.
If you do run the second cam......go with 1.6 rockers.
Definately the second one......the first is barely a 350/350 L46 cam.......I would put a lot more lift in this....like .500 or so......the .050 numbers are good.......108 centerline is great for the street and will sound snotty.
If you do run the second cam......go with 1.6 rockers.
Jebby
Thanks! Ill have to see what the rockers that came with my heads are, how much of a difference would it make if they're 1.5? I know theyre roller rockers, not sure of size.
About .030 in lift give or take but do the math to know for sure. Depending on the heads and pushrod guide plates clearence can be an issue with 1.6. Also check piston to valve clearence just to be safe.
Go with the 2nd one. It's not THAT radical. My last daily driver had a 234/242 cam with 112 lobe separation angle, and I loved it. Pull up to the light, the whole car rocking slightly from the cammy idle... A state trooper once complemented me on the car while he was giving me a ticket, can you believe that?
I agree with moving more towards a cam with the 0.50 lift height. If you had a lower flowing head I would go with the #2 choice but at 205, I would want more lift to take advantage of the heads.
Definitely the second cam. Not too much cam for a manual trans. If the budget will allow, consider a roller hydraulic cam. It will allow for more lift with a given duration. They are expensive, but definitely make a difference.
Definitely the second cam. Not too much cam for a manual trans. If the budget will allow, consider a roller hydraulic cam. It will allow for more lift with a given duration. They are expensive, but definitely make a difference.
I was thinking about it but i'm 19 without a job at the moment putting my '69 together and really don't need top of the line everything at the moment. Budget does allow but do I really NEED it, haha thats my mindset. Should only have about 10k total into the car with cost of completely new engine, brand new paint job and about half the interior replaced
Just be sure to use correct oil and breakin with flat tappet and buy a good cam core from a reputable company or you will be wasting money and doing it over again if/when cam goes flat. Ask me how I know.
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Originally Posted by Jebbysan
Definately the second one......the first is barely a 350/350 L46 cam.......I would put a lot more lift in this....like .500 or so......the .050 numbers are good.......108 centerline is great for the street and will sound snotty.
If you do run the second cam......go with 1.6 rockers.
Good Choice - You'll like that cam. Just follow the break-in advice that you find all over here... lube it up with moly paste lube on the lifters, lobes and disti gear, use proper oil, prime the oil system until there is flow through the rockers (buy a tool on Amazon if you don't have one), run it in for that critical 20 initial minutes, and change the oil after the first 30 minutes or so of break-in. I know you're keeping your budget within reason, but if you can swing a dyno session for the break-in and initial tune, it is well worth the $fewhundred to spend a 1/2 day and have the combo sorted before it goes into the car. They will help get your carb and timing sorted and will optimize the tune, plus you'd know what your numbers look like.
Last edited by JoeMinnesota; Dec 19, 2018 at 03:09 PM.
Good Choice - You'll like that cam. Just follow the break-in advice that you find all over here... lube it up with moly paste lube on the lifters, lobes and disti gear, use proper oil, prime the oil system until there is flow through the rockers (buy a tool on Amazon if you don't have one), run it in for that critical 20 initial minutes, and change the oil after the first 30 minutes or so of break-in. I know you're keeping your budget within reason, but if you can swing a dyno session for the break-in and initial tune, it is well worth the $fewhundred to spend a 1/2 day and have the combo sorted before it goes into the car. They will help get your carb and timing sorted and will optimize the tune, plus you'd know what your numbers look like.
Yep the guy that did the heads and block is going to come help and do all that and then after I plan on getting it dyno tuned if I can find a place near me.
Good Deal... Even a chassis dyno tune after you have it installed and running is a good idea. With real world air and your powertrain hooked up, you will at least make sure you don't have a tune that is too lean, you can check function of secondaries opening on the carb, still optimize timing, etc. In my case, a chassis tune put about 40hp back in the car vs. the moment I drove in. Cheap HP.