When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ordered and Installed all wiring front to rear from Lectric Limited . Perfect fit like original and so easy of an install that my daughter was able to use my help.
Last edited by redcruz1120; Dec 22, 2018 at 02:30 AM.
Zips comes from Lectric Limited. Most all the big vendors buy it from them. Whoever is having a sale at the moment will get you the best price on the same harness. Check out Wilcox. He has been having sales all month. As for the fit, they fit perfect with all the right connectors. Been done probably thousands of times. These harnesses were not designed to be working 40 or 50 years later. Wire get brittle and Bubba has usually been in there and this is how fires start.
I've rewired several cars though not on a C3 ger. Will be doing my 79 next year sometime. Its not too difficult but is time consuming.
I lay the harness out on the shop floor next to the car geographically before pulling out the old wiring. I bundle stuff together with zipties or loom that will be taking the same route through the car. Sometimes zipties will get hung up when snaking through the body.
Pull all wires that are going through a route at the same time. Things can get real snarled up in tight spaces and running individual leads typically turns into a mess.
I usually start by bolting the new fuse box in place then pulling wire. You don't have to do it that way but be very careful to not cross bundles and make a knot or twist and of course be sure to not pull wires so much that there isn't enough slack to mount it.
Don't secure any wire to the body/frame until all wires are pulled and fuse box is mounted.
Before pulling out old wires get a real good feel for the routing for each bundle. Many times it's best to leave an old wire in place then use it as a snake to pull the new wires through the route. Welding wire makes a good snake as well.
I've never spent the money on a direct fit kit as originality has not been a concern for the projects I've done. That being said, a direct fit with all.of the proper connectors will save you a bunch of time and a little frustration.
I'll get blasted for this but I've had great luck with solderless insulated connectors should you need to make any changes. Just be sure to use a good crimper. 99% of the time I put a piece of shrink wrap over the connectors. That seals the end keeping any junk from getting into the connection.
The right way of course is to solder and shrink rap. I can weld in any position, but can't solder worth a damn on my back.
Go slow and you'll be fine. Good luck and have fun!
I've rewired several cars though not on a C3 ger. Will be doing my 79 next year sometime. Its not too difficult but is time consuming.
I lay the harness out on the shop floor next to the car geographically before pulling out the old wiring. I bundle stuff together with zipties or loom that will be taking the same route through the car. Sometimes zipties will get hung up when snaking through the body.
Pull all wires that are going through a route at the same time. Things can get real snarled up in tight spaces and running individual leads typically turns into a mess.
I usually start by bolting the new fuse box in place then pulling wire. You don't have to do it that way but be very careful to not cross bundles and make a knot or twist and of course be sure to not pull wires so much that there isn't enough slack to mount it.
Don't secure any wire to the body/frame until all wires are pulled and fuse box is mounted.
Before pulling out old wires get a real good feel for the routing for each bundle. Many times it's best to leave an old wire in place then use it as a snake to pull the new wires through the route. Welding wire makes a good snake as well.
I've never spent the money on a direct fit kit as originality has not been a concern for the projects I've done. That being said, a direct fit with all.of the proper connectors will save you a bunch of time and a little frustration.
I'll get blasted for this but I've had great luck with solderless insulated connectors should you need to make any changes. Just be sure to use a good crimper. 99% of the time I put a piece of shrink wrap over the connectors. That seals the end keeping any junk from getting into the connection.
The right way of course is to solder and shrink rap. I can weld in any position, but can't solder worth a damn on my back.
Go slow and you'll be fine. Good luck and have fun!
This is wise information.
I have done custom, painless, and stock. I was also a sparky for 40 years. Great advice.
Crimp connections are fine when you use a GOOD crimping tool. If you solder,crimp it first, then solder. If you want water resistant, coat the finished splice with silicone grease before you heat shrink. The heat shrink should squish the silicone out as it shrinks. Ma Bell did waterproof splices this way.
As for just crimping, the stock one has crimps all over it, and they lasted years and years.
Number one rule for splices. It MUST be at least twice the diameter of the wire in length. This goes for cars, houses,high voltage transmission lines, anything.
Complete Electrical Restoration
https://willcoxcorvette.com/catalogs...c_part_year=23
. Might bribe Bird to do it while my dash is out. I hear he works for booze.
