When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 68 with the original 2 inch diameter drive line. I am putting a Tremec TKO 600 5 speed in it. I need to used the 1310 u-joints. Should I shorten the original drive line or build a bigger diameter one? Any thoughts. Thanks Don
When I purchased my TK5 from Keisler quite some time ago I was still running the original 327 with a head and roller cam upgrade, since then the engine has seen two more upgrades. The first ended up with 411 hp at the rear wheels the second ended up with more [no dyno time]. Still running that same 2 inch driveshaft that came with the TKO kit with no troubles. I DONOT do hole launches, I learned that causes all kinds of monetary challenges. I would suspect that if you plan an standing starts a larger drive shaft would be required and then you can plan on finding the next fuse in your drive line. T
We ran a stock 1330 DS with a 1310 conversion joint for the Tremic 1310 slip yoke, 3-4 passed and the Keisler slip yoke twisted and so did the DS, Had one built to solve the problem, along with a Mark Williams $250 1350 slip yoke and billet 1350 pinion yoke on the 12 bolt conversion. No issues since.
A good drive shaft shop will calculate length versus max rpm which will tell the "safe" diameter of the shaft. I had one made last summer for my C10 project. 1350 u-joints and yokes. Because of the length and rev limiter set at 6200 rpm I ended up with a 3.5" diameter drive shaft. Could of snuck by with a 3" but it would of been right on the edge of safe. $350 bucks all in. They supplied all the parts.