Harmonic Damper After Vortec Upgrade
The cam I am installing is intended for low end torque, so I don't think high rpm use should really be a factor for my application
.
I'm leaning toward the stock 6.75 inch damper, but also wondering with me changing the compression of the engine, should I install a larger damper?
Has anyone ran into engine harmonic issues after a vortec upgrade?
Thanks in advance for all your advice.
They absorb more harmonics, remember that crank wants to twist too. I run a tiny light one but dont expect more than 5k out of mine and want every last bit.
Your heads and cam wont change anything
Last edited by cv67; Jan 13, 2019 at 01:58 PM.
Look at and read the reviews on this list: https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/harmonic-balancers/engine-balance/internal/make/chevrolet/engine-size/5-7l-350/engine-family/chevy-small-block-gen-i/outside-diameter-in/6-750-in?N=4294943542%2B4294949313%2B429495139 9%2B4294951398%2B4294951388%2B4294951379 %2B4294906826&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=A scending
The Summit balancer is a ProStreet brand made by PowerBond in Austrailia......pretty good piece.
I recommend the corresponding Moroso timing tab too...I have used the tab out of the package with zero adjustment and it was spot on zero on three different engines. This is measured with a piston bridge and indicator. A bargain here.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-60110
I have run the the Professional Products and the ProStreet unit......both are quality pieces for street engine to 6000 rpm.
After that I would think about an ATI.
I don't like auto parts store balancers because they do not have the marks on them......this requires a dial back or digital timing light.....which are inaccurrate when using an MSD box.
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Jan 13, 2019 at 01:49 PM.
For 1972 C3 350
6.73" standard is pn DA-3071
6.73" heavy duty pn DA-3071-HD
6.73" hipo street pn 872002
6.73" bonded steel SFI pn 872022
7.99" standard is pn DA-3502
7.99" heavy duty pn DA-3502-HD
7.99" hipo street pn 872003
7.99" bonded steel SFI pn 872023
http://www.pioneerautoinc.com/wp-con...06/HB-2011.pdf
Old dampers' rubber deteriorates and bond between iron & rubber loosens.
For 1972 C3 350
6.73" standard is pn DA-3071
6.73" heavy duty pn DA-3071-HD
6.73" hipo street pn 872002
6.73" bonded steel SFI pn 872022
7.99" standard is pn DA-3502
7.99" heavy duty pn DA-3502-HD
7.99" hipo street pn 872003
7.99" bonded steel SFI pn 872023
http://www.pioneerautoinc.com/wp-con...06/HB-2011.pdf
Old dampers' rubber deteriorates and bond between iron & rubber loosens.
Jebby
If I had to do it again but with a stick, i'd probably go with a light bonded 6" (327 style) ... that's what I ran in circletracker.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
As part of the upgrade i also got one of those cloyes timing covers with the built in end play button, so not too concerned about the marker, as i will have to do something about that anyway.
I'll be going with with the stock size 6.75 damper because it sounds like the earlier 327 motors had them as well, which were higher compression, so the compression bump I'm doing should affect much.
thats up to 6000 rpm.
after that the optimal damper gets smaller, due to the fact that 1/2 mass times velocity squared.
think of the rotational mass between shifts . Once that mass is accelerated it represents significant stored energy transferred to the drive train.
Last edited by REELAV8R; Jan 14, 2019 at 02:59 PM.
thats up to 6000 rpm.
after that the optimal damper gets smaller, due to the fact that 1/2 mass times velocity squared.
think of the rotational mass between shifts . Once that mass is accelerated it represents significant stored energy transferred to the drive train.
Like your old low rpm low power John deer tractors, they had massive inertia stored in the heavy flywheel for grunt since the actual hp and torque produced by the engine was relatively low.
it will also help in hooking up during a launch situation in which traction is compromised. Rather than the power being wasted on spinning tires it’s being stored in the rotational mass of the engine.
it will help in any situation in which the stored energy in the mass of the motor is being transferred to the drive train and the torque of the motor itself is relatively low compared to a higher torque motor.
it will also help in hooking up during a launch situation in which traction is compromised. Rather than the power being wasted on spinning tires it’s being stored in the rotational mass of the engine.
The same thing also applies to a heavier rather than lighter flywheel with standard trans cars in drag racing. The heavy flywheel stores more torque than a lighter one and produces lower 60 ft. times because of this.
Is there a condition when the 6.75" damper would be advantageous? Higher rpms?
I know most of use aren't concerned with mpg, but I'd imagine greater crank momentum also helps with highway cruising where you are staying at the same speed.
Has anyone done any testing on this?
I just read the fine print for the cloyes end play button timing cover, and it says the bolts may cause interference with the larger 8" damper.
Has anyone installed the timing cover with a 8" damper? Maybe use screws with a filet on the head?
Is there a condition when the 6.75" damper would be advantageous? Higher rpms?
I know most of use aren't concerned with mpg, but I'd imagine greater crank momentum also helps with highway cruising where you are staying at the same speed.
Has anyone done any testing on this?
I just read the fine print for the cloyes end play button timing cover, and it says the bolts may cause interference with the larger 8" damper.
Has anyone installed the timing cover with a 8" damper? Maybe use screws with a filet on the head?
Another thing about the 8" deal is how wide it is.......you can't see behind it and that can be a problem if there is a leak of any kind......you cannot see where it is coming from. IDK.....I just see zero need for a large balancer and if you look at later LT-1 (late model) engines....there is no balancer at all....just a hub with a serpentine pulley on it......
Fact is if you have an engine that is balanced right.....the harmonics are low to non-existant anyhoo.......so use the smallest balancer you can find.
My own 406 has a tiny balancer on it because it makes about 400ft/lbs. torque off idle........the available torque much out weighs the spinning inertia from a large balancer.
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Jan 15, 2019 at 02:22 PM.
Is there a condition when the 6.75" damper would be advantageous? Higher rpms?
I know most of use aren't concerned with mpg, but I'd imagine greater crank momentum also helps with highway cruising where you are staying at the same speed.
Has anyone done any testing on this?
I just read the fine print for the cloyes end play button timing cover, and it says the bolts may cause interference with the larger 8" damper.
Has anyone installed the timing cover with a 8" damper? Maybe use screws with a filet on the head?
Last edited by REELAV8R; Jan 15, 2019 at 03:59 PM.
Maybe I'm just looking at his too simply, as mass/momentum as a whole rather than mass of the crank related to all the rest of the drive train.
Again, I know it was tested by Vizzard, but just looking to educate myself.
Jebby you bring up some solid points about repairability, and I'm not going to be racing the car, so it more about seat of the pants feel rather than reducing my times by 0.1 seconds.
I guess a better question would be is it worth it to upgrade to a 8" damper, performance or reliability wise with the increased compression after the upgrade?














