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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 03:39 PM
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Default AFR Heads

Ive built a new dart SHP engine with AFR heads and temperature switch hole in AFRs ar 3/8 and wanted to know what sender will work for factory gauge. Looking at Holley 534-2 switch but can't find anything. Thanks
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 04:06 PM
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You could always have a machine shop drill & tap for the correct size. I believe its a 5/8 NPT? Don't remember. Anyway a local shop charged me $30 to do that. That's a $500 piece of aluminum, so I figure let the pro's do it. Then you can use the stock sending unit.
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 04:16 PM
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Thanks
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 05:02 PM
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I have AFR 210 heads and I originally installed the sender on the side of the heads. It always read artificially too high because of the proximity to the exhaust ports. so I moved it to the intake before the thermostat.

It is on the other side from the brass plug.

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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
You could always have a machine shop drill & tap for the correct size. I believe its a 5/8 NPT? Don't remember. Anyway a local shop charged me $30 to do that. That's a $500 piece of aluminum, so I figure let the pro's do it. Then you can use the stock sending unit.

What I did with my AFR's and the stock sending unit^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 05:12 PM
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I just moved mine to the intake manifold. But I believe Willcox has one that fits aftermarket heads..........https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...79-3-8-npt-new
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 06:27 PM
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Problem is most of the aftermarket units that fit aftermarket heads are not 100% accurate like the OEM one and the reason I opted to have my AFR's tapped by my builder for the OEM sending unit. I was aware of the Willcox and other units but passed on feedback I read.....about them be inaccurate

Last edited by jb78L-82; Jan 14, 2019 at 06:28 PM.
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 10:21 PM
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Just move the stock one to the intake manifold or to the water pump. Where you see the blue plug in gkull’s picture.

you can also get thermostat housings that will accommodate the stock sender.

then put a pipe plug in the hole in the heads.

Last edited by REELAV8R; Jan 14, 2019 at 10:22 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2019 | 01:30 PM
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I drilled and tapped my AFR heads for the stock sending unit. If you are not comfortable doing this, then take them to a machine shop.

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Old Jan 15, 2019 | 02:37 PM
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If you are not comfortable doing this, then take them to a machine shop.
What I did........^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Last edited by jb78L-82; Jan 15, 2019 at 02:38 PM.
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Old Jan 16, 2019 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jb78L-82
Problem is most of the aftermarket units that fit aftermarket heads are not 100% accurate like the OEM one and the reason I opted to have my AFR's tapped by my builder for the OEM sending unit. I was aware of the Willcox and other units but passed on feedback I read.....about them be inaccurate
The Willcox unit is correct temp sender, but milled down to fit the head. As long as everything is reasonably on-center, this can be done. If there's any shift in the casting or previous machining caused the temp sender to be offset, you can end up ruining the sending unit when milling down to 3/8. I don't think this is a significant cause of concern, but is possible.

The bigger reason I'd recommend going 1/2NPT is that you just don't have to deal with it after the fact, if/when the machined sending unit goes bad.

Last edited by Shark Racer; Jan 16, 2019 at 09:58 PM.
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Old Jan 16, 2019 | 10:15 PM
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I had this problem with AFR 210s. Upon examination, it appeared that resizing the hole in the heads to 1/2" NPT would cause the bottom of the temp sensor to hit the runner internally. Like others have done, put it in the intake manifold instead.

Last edited by larrywalk; Jan 16, 2019 at 10:15 PM.
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Old Jan 17, 2019 | 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 7t2vette
I drilled and tapped my AFR heads for the stock sending unit. If you are not comfortable doing this, then take them to a machine shop.

Originally Posted by Shark Racer
The Willcox unit is correct temp sender, but milled down to fit the head. As long as everything is reasonably on-center, this can be done. If there's any shift in the casting or previous machining caused the temp sender to be offset, you can end up ruining the sending unit when milling down to 3/8. I don't think this is a significant cause of concern, but is possible.

The bigger reason I'd recommend going 1/2NPT is that you just don't have to deal with it after the fact, if/when the machined sending unit goes bad.

Yes, I do remember Willcox explaining this process^^^^^^^. Again, this is not Willcox's fault by any means and I could be wrong but I read at the time of my decision that most of the aftermarket 1/2 inch GM type sending units often have/had accuracy issues (AKA-the OEM ones are superior to what you can buy today). So, Milling down an aftermarket 1/2 inch sending unit still leaves you with an aftermarket unit that MAY not be accurate. If the 3/8 inch aftermarket units are accurate, I am good to go....don't tap the heads for the OEM unit....

Last edited by jb78L-82; Jan 17, 2019 at 06:25 AM.
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Old Jan 18, 2019 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by jb78L-82
Yes, I do remember Willcox explaining this process^^^^^^^. Again, this is not Willcox's fault by any means and I could be wrong but I read at the time of my decision that most of the aftermarket 1/2 inch GM type sending units often have/had accuracy issues (AKA-the OEM ones are superior to what you can buy today). So, Milling down an aftermarket 1/2 inch sending unit still leaves you with an aftermarket unit that MAY not be accurate. If the 3/8 inch aftermarket units are accurate, I am good to go....don't tap the heads for the OEM unit....
I'm running one from either Willcox or lectric-limited, can't remember anymore, and it matches the fan kick on temp when viewed from the driver's seat. I didn't check with a protractor or at other areas in the sweep. In reality, +/- 5deg should be good for general use. I know in some cases it can be real bad.

I agree 100% that the aftermarket offerings for temp senders requires a lot of buyer precaution.
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