ElCid79

Anyone know where I can track down a replacement block for my 383 stroker . The guy who built my engine originally messed the one I bought originally up pretty badly. Doesn't look salvagable. I live in NC .

Kacyc3

If you dont have a cam shaft purchased yet, I would locate a roller cam block with fuel pump provision. It will save you additional cost to do a retro roller and they maybe easier/cheaper to find.

F22

Why not go with the '87-'91 Chevy 350 Roller Cam block? They were fairly common during those years, boast a full roller cam setup (allowing a more aggressive cam profile and higher lift), a one piece rear main seal and they came in both four bolt main and two bolt main blocks. C4 Corvettes had these and they were known as the L98 engine or TPI. If you get it from a Chevy truck, make sure it's a roller cam, as in those years, some of them had flat tappet lifters, instead of the roller cam setup. A good source is anybody selling used C4 parts on Craigslist. My local guy sells them for $350 and they come with the roller lifter retainer (you can see it in the pic below, it sits in the intake valley and holds the 'dog bones' down or the square "8" pieces that keep the lifters from rotating), the cam thrust plate and hardware and the rear main seal housing, as well as the oil pan. The only caveat is the dipstick switches to the passenger side. Other than that, it will fit in any C3 Corvette, uses the same heads or any aftermarket heads or manifolds you want to put on it.

F22

Kacyc3

1. If he messed it up why are you tracking it down
2. Are you planning on using him for the build anyway?
3. if you dont have all the parts purchased already, why not just order a crate engine with a warranty?

jackson

OP in NC
Do you still have a good 2 pc rms 383 crank ? If so, you'll probably want a 2 pc rms block.
Why not tell us what you do have that is still good?

Dynra Rockets

Look on CL, ebay and FB marketplace. I see several.

Jebbysan

What exactly did they mess up?
Don't get too hung up on a four bolt block......a studded 2 bolt is plenty strong. You will run out of oiling system before you drop a crank.

Jebby

ElCid79

There were all sorts of issues, but apparently he managed to strip something out that is irreparable. I don't remember exactly what it was. (I think the new guy said he installed the bearings backwards or something.) The original dude messed this car up so badly I should have thrown in the towel years ago. But I am fairly stubborn.

Mechanic A stole a ton of my parts, flat broke stuff, etc etc etc. We thought the engine build was going to be solid, but even that he managed to screw up. Absolutely he should have to pay to replace it. That said, I made the choices to move on with my life, try not to harbor ill will against him. etc.

The new engine builder, who actually seems to know what he is doing, and is respected in the SCCA circles told me that the crank and pistons are in good shape, the cam shaft (Which mechanic A swapped out without my knowledge) is not what my fuel injection system was spec'd for so it is useless. The heads are in good shape, one of the lifters was collapsed, and needs to be replaced. And obviously all of the bearings, seals, etc. I will get specifics of what type of crank, pistons, rods, etc are in the car at this point. Frankly, I am getting really tired of pissing money away on this project. The FI system alone was 3k when I purchased it. Not to mention all of the other crap that we are tossing. It sucks.

C'est la Vie.

John

GUSTO14

68' chevy 302/327/350 block - $350 (HICKORY)
https://hickory.craigslist.org/pts/d...783582977.html

This looks to be a 4-Bolt block...
350 engine block - $350 (Statesville)
https://charlotte.craigslist.org/pts...775143344.html

Good luck... GUSTO

F22

C4 Corvette Scrapper. Very likely he has an L98 TPI motor or block available.

https://charlotte.craigslist.org/pts...795386513.html

C4 parts everything ur look in for

I have been in the Corvette business for a little over eight years I buy sell trade build and tear apart Corvettes I have recently torn apart + 84 + 94 + 89 + + 88 lots of parts available

jackson

I've heard... if cam bearings installed wrong in OE sbc, that can starve crank mains & rods of oil … ruin most everything downstream of misaligned cam bearing

cv67

That 350 fs in NC is whats wrong with this hobby, read the ad. To boot sounds like its had a hard life.
Ran into too many old blocks that were questionable, finally burned up the visa and bought a new 4 bolt mexico made block.
best of luck op.

Depending where you are maybe look for one of those roller blocks....out here machine shops complain they are drying up.
Still, 350 bux for an old 2 even 4 bolt block is nuts. you can get a real nice 454 for that.

machine shops are a great place to look for block and head cores, most have them and are checked/machined already. Doubt they keep bad pieces around.

ElCid79

I emailed about the one in Statesville, that is certainly an option. And appeals to me much greater than paying 1k plus for a new one from summit. However, maybe I should just bite the bullet and do it right, and get a brand new one. Currently unsure.

John

jackson

OP John
I have an idea but first … Have you considered selling off what you have … except then use your nice FI system with an affordable fresh motor with unassailable pedigree?

Buccaneer

I'm assuming that you just want a good block, nothing special other than it needs to spec ok, right? If you would have posted this two days ago I could have hooked you up with a stock 77 block for free, you pay shipping, but I called my friend today and he had already given it away to another local vette club member that needed a good block. If you are looking for a brand new block and building a 383, Dart SHP is a good choice, but they are a bit pricey at $1,500-1,600 for a bare block, but they are better than a stock GM 350 block. I was a step away from pulling the trigger on a SHP block for my build, but found a good block at the last minute. Still wish I went with the SHP block, oh well, maybe next build for a 406 or something.

ElCid79

That thought has ASOLUTELY crossed my mind . Which would you recommend?

ElCid79

Bummer! I wish I had asked a few days ago. If that falls through let me know . I will look into those shps. If I have to buy new anyways . Might as well get something cool .

Little Mouse

I have a 68 and a 70 block both with the nodular 3482 caps have had them for probably at least 28 years. They were rusty and still are, 8 months ago i took them up to a known good machinest had him check them for cracks, line bore on the mains. He said they were good could be used witbout any main line hone. One needed to be bored .030 the other .060. Not going to use them. If you want both you can have both for $250.00. I knew 77 up blocks and heads were junk but he told me 72 and under are thicker in a few areas.

jackson

OP John

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-OEM-NEW-...nA85:rk:1:pf:0

This is all brand new, Not rebuilt, Not remanufactured. Block, heads, crank, every nut and bolt is brand new from General Motors-Chevrolet and assembled by GM. The seller is bona fide Chevy dealer in Fredericksburg VA. Advertised price is $1746. But I did a simulated "what if" ebay checkout a week or so ago and it showed a $100 discount so $1646. Seller offers $50 spend-anywhere gift card so that's $1596. That's a great value; the very good RPO L31 vin code R Vortec 350 with Roller Cam and 4 bolt mains for under $1600 delivered. Same motor as in gazillions of Fuel Injected Chev-GM PU, SUV, 1500, 2500, 3500 1996-2000 & Van 96-2002. Summit & Jegs both get more than $2K for same piece.

As delivered L31 makes about 250-260 horsepower at about 9.4:1 compression ratio. You'll need a new, different Vortec intake ($150-$350). Swap Roller Cam to higher lift cam & Swap Valve Springs to accommodate hi lift about ($500). You'll need a later model Flywheel or Flexplate to fit later model One-piece rear main seal crank's bolt pattern (< $100). While still 9.4:1 CR, such a combo will easily make 350 to 400 streetable, reliable horsepower; since you're using your nice FI setup (with its electric fuel pump) it'll likely make even more power.

As an example, reman crate suppliers such as BluePrint and Yearone sell a similar package priced $2600 to $3200.
* But theirs are reman-rebuilt w/USED heads and USED Blocks that're already bored +0.040" over.
You can do the very same thing BUT ALL NEW for same money or less.

This a viable Option. Is it the right one for you? That's your call.