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I recently put headers on my SB 68 vette. I broke a wire off the starter which I found and repaired. Drove it yesterday, It shows it was charging everything I tried seemed to work except the radio. I parked it last night and today the battery is dead. I haven't messed with it nor do I know if anything else was not working yesterday. Just went for a normal spin in the day light. Turn signals seemed to work. I did notice and taped a wire at the coil right when I noticed the car would not start yesterday. Here is how it went. I finished the headers, started the car and moved it out of the garage. I shut it off and kicked the throttle so the high idle would kick in. It started and ran for a few seconds and died. Did that twice then nothing. I figured I pinched something so I pushed it back in. I found both issues, the broken connector at the solenoid and the melted wire at the coil. fixed em both and it started and ran normal. Today it's flat dead. Never checked the fuse block. If some light can be shed on this for next weekend that would be great. Thanks all you C3 enthusiasts !
Last edited by walt4805; Jan 27, 2019 at 07:42 PM.
Melted wire at coil could be a clue. How did this happen? You have a yellow wire from coil that goes to starter for positive voltage. Also a white/red that goes to ignition switch. Probably the yellow wire going to coil had a direct short to melt. You do have a fusible link at the starter. You must of got wiring wrong here. id you have it off to put headers on? If you want a wiring diagram pm me. I tried to attach but file too big for forum
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I would get a meter or test light and see what you have for power at the starter and if the wires going to the alternator and voltage regulator melted as well. I believe theres another fusible link in there as well. Then check all your fuses too.
Melted wire at coil could be a clue. How did this happen? You have a yellow wire from coil that goes to starter for positive voltage. Also a white/red that goes to ignition switch. Probably the yellow wire going to coil had a direct short to melt. You do have a fusible link at the starter. You must of got wiring wrong here. id you have it off to put headers on? If you want a wiring diagram pm me. I tried to attach but file too big for forum
Never removed the starter. I have not looked to see if there is a yellow on the inside terminal closest to the block,. The red (brown) on the outside terminal is the one that broke the wire. I replaced the end and put it back on. The car starts and runs fine but something is draining the battery overnight. Now at the coil. The two wires on the positive side are connected at the connection loop. They have a cloth like insulation wrapped around one. They both appear to be weather checked but only one looks as if it were melted. I followed both to the wire harness and the one cloth like is joined with another, but they do pull apart. I cut some of the tape back to see and the appear to be joined farther in the harness. As far as I got today besides putting the battery on the charger. The volt meter in the dash indicated a good charge when I finished the solenoid wire repair then it backed down to normal. Most likely because I cranked it a good bit before finding the broken wire. If the fuse-able link popped the starter would not crank at all right?
Last edited by walt4805; Jan 28, 2019 at 05:52 PM.
Also the radio didn't work. All fuses in the block are okay too. During the week I have little time to mess with this but the weekend I hopefully will have figured it out. Sure don't want to pull the dash. Did that twice already for the wipers and the speedometer
Yes it wouldn't crank if fusible link gone. The yellow wire which is cloth covered is actually a resistive wire. It was used if you have points. Don't need if you are running electronic but will work.
I can only send wiring diagram to an email as I pm'ed. This site don't allow more than 5mb.
If battery is going dead overnight probably a good short. You will need the diagram as well as a meter that reads current. If you put a ammeter in line with pos or neg cable you can see how much current is flowing. Usually if you see current you can start pulling fuses to isolate circuit