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I’ve got a 400 sbc spare engine, going to use it as a temporary engine to drive my car while I rebuild the current engine.
its a stock 400, and stock ‘882 heads (garbage I know but it is what it is)
I don’t want to spend any more $$ than just a cam and lifters,
so with the limits of the ‘882 heads, in everyone’s opinion
whats the best cam I can get? I don’t wanna go crazy just a good upgrade to wake the motor up
Edit: auto 2004R transmission very heavy modification
exhaust dual homemade side pipe, long tube headers with only resonators 2.5”
carb: holly double pump 650
intake aftermarket single plane
gearing: low, want torque as much as possible no high end
this is a street occasional strip car.
Last edited by Averystingray75; Jan 31, 2019 at 06:44 PM.
Rear gearing -
Trans type - auto or manual
Exhaust system - stock/headers/dual/etc
Carb ?
Intake ?
What ya want it to do : DD, AutoX, Drag, Road race.........................
Rear gearing -
Trans type - auto or manual
Exhaust system - stock/headers/dual/etc
Carb ?
Intake ?
What ya want it to do : DD, AutoX, Drag, Road race.........................
auto 2004R transmission very heavy modification
exhaust dual homemade side pipe, long tube headers with only resonators 2.5”
carb: holly double pump 650
intake aftermarket single plane
gearing: low, want torque as much as possible no high end
Change the springs. They were too weak 40 years ago.
this is is a temp motor I do not want to take apart heads or get into any more work than a cam swap
im saving that work for my other engine that I care more about. I just wanna have some fun in between the engine rebuild could take me years ro
complete and I want to drive my car still in the meantime
Comp Cams has a program you can download to help you choose. Educate yourself about dynamic compression ratio and select a cam to get you in the 8-8.5:1 range. You will want something with an intake duration less than 220 degrees to maximize torque.
That's a very economical choice. Very worthy of consideration for your circumstances. Now take the numbers and plug them into a dynamic compression ratio calculator (several available online).
thats a no for me, just want a cam and lifters probably gonna get a double roller.
do NOT want to do springs on the heads. It’s a sealed motor right now I wanna do as LITTLE as possible, this is a “beater” engine.
That's a very economical choice. Very worthy of consideration for your circumstances. Now take the numbers and plug them into a dynamic compression ratio calculator (several available online).
what do you figure is DCR for that piece with 1103 cam? And do you think it passes muster?
also, I'd like to see new springs too (Z28 would be good) but OP states he does not want to go beyond a new cam. So I chose a cam which I think should work with his OE springs. I'd also like to see a new timing set; a $20 melling or cloyes set aok. OE set likely has plastic cam sprocket/gear.
With or without DCR calc, the bigger the motor, the milder a given grind becomes. OP's working with a temporary stand-in 400; not a 350 keeper.
what do you figure is DCR for that piece with 1103 cam? And do you think it passes muster?
also, I'd like to see new springs too (Z28 would be good) but OP states he does not want to go beyond a new cam. So I chose a cam which I think should work with his OE springs. I'd also like to see a new timing set; a $20 melling or cloyes set aok. OE set likely has plastic cam sprocket/gear.
With or without DCR calc, the bigger the motor, the milder a given grind becomes. OP's working with a temporary stand-in 400; not a 350 keeper.
i will probably include a double roller timing chain set with the cam selection only because I have to remove that area.
i like your original cam selection.
i will probably include a double roller timing chain set with the cam selection only because I have to remove that area.
i like your original cam selection.
It is impossible to put a camshaft in a small block Chevrolet without “cracking it open”.
You need to do a lot of research on your engine and learn how it works.
You can replace the springs and seals without cracking open anything more than the valve covers.
Your already cracking open the intake manifold, oil pan and front cover to do the cam- Valve covers are the easiest of the 4.
Just sayin’
When I said springs were too weak 40 years ago, I meant for the cam they were installed with. 40 years later they are weaker. You are gonna put in a cam with more lift and duration than the cam they already were overmatched by.
Ok everyone what I mean by “cracking it open”
HEADGASKETS
the oil pan is off, I’m not worried about intake gasket. Valve covers I don’t really consider even a thing.
the timing cover kinda sucks but it is what it is
i just don’t wanna get into valve springs because it’s just a lot of work I already have so many projects
i can pop pop a cam into it in a couple hours not worried about that
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