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I was cleaning up my engine wiring loom today and noticed a section of un-insulated wire on the feed to my starter motor, as shown.
It looks like the wire has pulled out of the white cylinder but it feels tight and I can't push it back in or pull it out.
Does anyone know what the white cylinder is and what I can do to fix this (other than just insulate the wire)?
I am not sure what wires those would be as I don't know the year of your C3.
On my 1968 there is a "Fusible Link" built into one of the wires that goes to the Starter Solenoid. I have never seen that type of connector used on a fusible link at least not on my 1968 C3.
Is it possible that somebody installed a aftermarket fan system or something with a serious appetite for amperage?
Scotch Brand Electrical tape would do just fine to solve those wires.
The car is a 78. There are no aftermarket electrical bits fitted, I'm guessing the loom is original. The 78 wiring diagram shows the 2 wires with the words "Thermo" so maybe they are thermal fuses, but I can't see how they are attached.
The "thermo" part is the fusible link from the ring terminal to the white insulator. If it's tight in the connector, just insulate it with quality electrical tape. Or you can purchase a replacement starter extension harness.
The cable is tight in the connector and there is electrical continuity between the exposed wire and the ring terminal. I'm just concerned that if the cable has pulled out of the connector there might not be much contact area left inside the connector and it could overheat. I can't see any way to open the connector and re-position the wire, so it might have to be a new extension harness.
Thanks for the help.
Thinking about this, if the white cylinder is just a connector then presumably I can just break it off and solder the two ends of the cable together (or use another connector).
Anybody know if there is any other purpose to this item? Is it some form of insulator? If so, why is it needed?
If it is acting as a fusible link, you would not want to remove and bypass it permanently. You may overload your wiring, or create some other issue. The advice here is sound. If it’s tight and you have continuity, tape it cleanly and move on.
From all the digging about I've done on this site and others, it seems to me that the fusible link is actually the length of wire between the white cylinder and the ring terminal. If so then the white cylinder is just a connector that I can remove and solder the 2 ends of the wires back together.
Can anyone confirm if this correct?
You are correct, however the only problem I see is that the insulation for the red wire is gone. If you cut off the white plastic, you will find a crimped connector holding the fusible link wire to the red wire and will still need to re-insulate it.
Typically GM put those white sleeves or black ones around splices that went to fusible links.
The fusible link protects the circuit in the same way a fuse does. The insulation is non-combustible, unlike ordinary wire.
Those sleeves, all they do is help you LOCATE the fusible links once they're buried / wrapped in a harness. Kinda like a mouse inside a snake --- you see the bumps.
On my 1968 those sleeves are black rubber. I cut one open, nothing inside, just a crimped connection between the big red wire and the smaller orange fusible link wire.