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It's been a while since I've had my timing light out but I went to use it and no strobe. I did use the battery in the car as the power source and put the clamp around the number 1 spark plug wire and disconnected the vacuum advance. It just so happens that I have another, identical timing light. Hooked it up and nothing until rpm's increase and then strobe starts flashing. Both lights doing the same. This has to be operator error but what am I missing? The motor is a 1970 LT1 with points. Thanks in advance.
Where are you getting 12V ? You can put the POS clip on the red terminal on the back of the ALT. Black clip to a good grd. I think that's the prob, GRD.
Maybe a dirty or corroded battery terminal or bad ground? With my dial back I usually use the red positive connector on the back of the alternator and for negative the front brake line nut on the master cylinder. Both are right there.
Edit: Looks like HeadsU.P. can type faster than me....
Last edited by CanadaGrant; Feb 26, 2019 at 07:29 PM.
Maybe a dirty or corroded battery terminal or bad ground? With my dial back I usually use the red positive connector on the back of the alternator and for negative the front brake line nut on the master cylinder. Both are right there.
Edit: Looks like HeadsU.P. can type faster than me....
For what it's worth, hook it to the #3 wire and see if it acts the same, it's possible, although maybe not likely that it's not properly firing #1 at idle
Or, it's also possible the voltage is weak at idle, (alternator output goes up with the RPM)
Just a thought.
M
Just went out to try moving the power source to the alternator and an engine ground, still no go. I started moving the clamp, first to #3 and nothing, next to #5 and now it's flashing, The same with #7. Does this sound like it was never set up correctly with #1 at TDC on the compression stroke with the rotor aligned to it? I say this because I know that it has been apart before I owned it. I have not checked charging voltage yet but the battery seems strong.
If it runs, all should flash regardless of where the dist was set or if the balancer is spun or whatever, just won't flash at the timing mark. If the voltage is right (or decent) either those cylinders aren't actually firing at idle (should be rough as hell / flooding) or there's something wrong with the wires/ground.
M
This all began because it is running so rich that your eyes water and you'll choke on the fumes. I assumed it was the carb at fault. I changed plugs, cap, and rotor. It ran smoother but still too rich, that wasn't any better. I checked the float level and tried to adjust with vacuum gauge but everything I did seemed to take me a step backwards. That's why I wanted to verify the timing and then work from there. Sounds like I need to check for a dead cylinder/plug/wire. Hopefully I'm moving in the right direction??
Always start with timing
Check #2 wire with your light, if it's OK, swap the wire with #1 wire (should be long enough to trade those two) and see if it's good on #1, if it's good on #1 then the wires are a problem, if it's still dead on #1, check the plug or cap / rotor (just cause it's new doesn't mean it's not faulty) or put your old cap back on and re-test
M
Just went out to try moving the power source to the alternator and an engine ground, still no go. I started moving the clamp, first to #3 and nothing, next to #5 and now it's flashing, The same with #7. Does this sound like it was never set up correctly with #1 at TDC on the compression stroke with the rotor aligned to it? I say this because I know that it has been apart before I owned it. I have not checked charging voltage yet but the battery seems strong.
Okay, you moved the clamp on the timing light from #3 with no flashing to number 5 and now it's flashing. This tells me your timing light is working but your #3 plug wire isn't. This isn't a matter of how you set your timing. The timing can be off any amount in a 360 degree circle but it will still flash at the plug when the rotor passes the contact in the cap. If it doesn't flash, check the plug wire first then the cap and rotor. This isn't a matter of timing. It's no ignition on at least one plug. Did you install new plug wires or by chance pull the wire off the plug and separate the wire from the connector in the plug boot?
Last edited by CanadaGrant; Feb 26, 2019 at 10:48 PM.
You might also want to check your ignition coil? Easy enough to check out of you have a digital meter. If interested you can find good info with instructions of how to do it here. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/pu...leshooting.cfm
The reason I suggest the coil is.....? What are the chances a few of your plug wires going bad at the same time without a good reason? The common denominator is the ignition coil. If the coil is weak? The spark will also be weak. I could be wrong? But, there may not be enough spark traveling through the wire on number 1, or several of the other wires you have switched your timing light to in order to trigger your timing light?
My old timing light has a directional clip. It only works one way. If I get no strobe I just flip the induction clip over.
^^^^what he said^^^^
also, the metal "jaws" of the "core" inside the clip ... they can become slightly loose ... and, if they do Not contact one-another when closed around wire ... it won't trigger.
My light is ~ 42 years old SUN induction (Not dial-back) with the rubber, screw-on snout housing a glass optic ... its last strobe bulb replacement came off the shelf at a local, Loooooong closed Radio Shack. Put a baggie over the snout with a rubber band when I tuned harleys; never liked plastic timing mark case plugs.
Do both timing lights work well on another car? If so then put a hot battery on a cart and use it to power the light. If you still have issues then either the inductive pickup or a bad wire.
I have never had a problem using an ancient Craftsman strobe with Taylor wires.
Let us know what you find.
do you have an ohm meter? if so measure the resistance of each plug wire, it should not measure more than 1,000 ohms per foot of wire. If the wires are old carbon core wires it is quite possible for more than one to be bad.