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Want to lube and change oil in my 69 427. Are the oil filters available at auto parts stores or are they special order? Does anyone have a map of the grease point locations?
Want to lube and change oil in my 69 427. Are the oil filters available at auto parts stores or are they special order? Does anyone have a map of the grease point locations?
You are opening Pandora's box here a bit but I believe after 20 years of using them on the dyno that the Fram HP4 is one of the best filters out there.......it is a high flow unit and NOT made with other Fram filters that get a bad rap.
Use HP8 if you want a short filter.....
Big block oil filter are the same as small blocks. Try to get the long filter (AC Delco PF-35 equivalent), holds a little more oil.Ask them to run an interchange lookup. Napa Gold is good (made by Wix).
As for grease points, off the top of my head. Upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm. Don't force too much grease in or you will blow out the seals. Boots should just be bulging.
Big block oil filter are the same as small blocks. Try to get the long filter (AC Delco PF-35 equivalent), holds a little more oil.Ask them to run an interchange lookup. Napa Gold is good (made by Wix).
As for grease points, off the top of my head. Upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm. Don't force too much grease in or you will blow out the seals. Boots should just be bulging.
You are opening Pandora's box here a bit but I believe after 20 years of using them on the dyno that the Fram HP4 is one of the best filters out there.......it is a high flow unit and NOT made with other Fram filters that get a bad rap.
Use HP8 if you want a short filter.....
Jebby
I will take the risk and jump in with you, I have been using the HP4 for more decades than I care to remember and have been using the HP2 on a Pontiac for the same amount of time.
If they have grease fittings they use the same grease as the ball joints and other steering components. The PS control valve has a grease fitting, if a 4 speed, the cross shaft has a fitting and the PS hydraulic ram.
Careful with the ps control valve. Some have a fitting and some have a pIug. I think that the zerk fitting was mostly for filling when first assembled. Adding too much grease may blow out a seal.
U joints with a fitting may be very hard to access. A standard grease gun fitting just won't fit.
You are opening Pandora's box here a bit but I believe after 20 years of using them on the dyno that the Fram HP4 is one of the best filters out there.......it is a high flow unit and NOT made with other Fram filters that get a bad rap.
Use HP8 if you want a short filter.....
Jebby
I have no reason to dispute this, but numerous studies have concluded that, over all, Fram's are the cheapest made. No one ever said that they are really a problem, but---
I did have a problem years ago with a Explorer that would have a lot of valve clatter when started after sitting for a week+. This was about the time that the discussions about Fram's crappy anti flow back valves were hitting the internet. I changed to another brand and the problem disappeared.
So, for the same basic price, I use other brands. I don't like companies that don't fix problems.
Would I use a Fram if there weren't any other brands available? Sure.
I have no reason to dispute this, but numerous studies have concluded that, over all, Fram's are the cheapest made. No one ever said that they are really a problem, but---
I did have a problem years ago with a Explorer that would have a lot of valve clatter when started after sitting for a week+. This was about the time that the discussions about Fram's crappy anti flow back valves were hitting the internet. I changed to another brand and the problem disappeared.
So, for the same basic price, I use other brands. I don't like companies that don't fix problems.
Would I use a Fram if there weren't any other brands available? Sure.
That may be true for Fram's bottom of the line filters, but not the Ultra Guard filters. They are a highly regarded, quality filter. Also, it sounds like this HP4 is not your everyday Fram filter. High flow, internal bypass, extra thick case, etc.
To me the definition of "High-Flow" filter means its not doing much. As in, lots of porous media allowing crap to get through. But that's just my non-scientific approach.
But anyway, there are some very educational, non-bias and entertaining videos on YouTube about the innards of popular filters. And that's what is important is the internals. Not the price. Not the color of the canister. The inside! A few "tubers" show how much material is actually in the canister, the spring quality and the cardboard or lack of on top of the cartridge.
Go to YouTube and type in. "Oil Filter Comparisons". You be the judge after watching a few videos, instead of more dead-horse-beating opinions.
Everybody has their favorites and no one can convince you to use other brands.
I've been using the Napa 1069 on my car and 6 cylinder truck for years and would swear by them. It's the same filter for a big block, small block and inline 6. I might look into the longer filters though as I have room on my Vette and truck for a longer filter, thus extra capacity.
I have been using a Baldwin filter and I am concerned about the high oil
pressure 60psi thinking that is to high? No oil leaks .so I just got a Fram
PF4 racing oil filter. Right on the box it says not for highway use?
not sure what to do now.
I have been using a Baldwin filter and I am concerned about the high oil
pressure 60psi thinking that is to high? No oil leaks .so I just got a Fram
PF4 racing oil filter. Right on the box it says not for highway use?
not sure what to do now.
Change your oil and be happy." See the world today in your Chevrolet."
I have no reason to dispute this, but numerous studies have concluded that, over all, Fram's are the cheapest made. No one ever said that they are really a problem, but---
I did have a problem years ago with a Explorer that would have a lot of valve clatter when started after sitting for a week+. This was about the time that the discussions about Fram's crappy anti flow back valves were hitting the internet. I changed to another brand and the problem disappeared.
So, for the same basic price, I use other brands. I don't like companies that don't fix problems.
Would I use a Fram if there weren't any other brands available? Sure.
Did you read the part where I said it is not made in the same place? It better not be....$11 a piece now.
But let’s be serious....a filter on a high performance, blueprinted, measured hand assembled engine is not a huge deal....what is a huge deal is the filters burst rating and ability to flow. You see it is acceptable procedure to plug the oil bypass at the filter mount on high performance and racing engines and that leaves ALL of the filter to be reponsible for getting the oil through it.....
The HP4, when you hold it in your hand is NOTHING like their standard unit....it is much heavier in construction and the holes around the perimeter are MUCH larger.....it is not a Fram filter in any sense in fact I believe the same place that makes these makes them for Moroso....
Filters need to be ultra fine micron for stud that is not taken care of.....not for stuff that is.....if something is coming apart in your race engine....a filter is not going to save it.....