jpatrick62

In the middle of a front suspension job and noticed the driver side brake line to the front wheel had some surface rust on it and nut on the crossover line (to the front passenger side) looked like godzilla had attacked it with vice grips. So while I was there I replaced them with SS lines. So while I'm waiting for my parts to arrive I read the SS brake line connections had a propensity to leak. Is there a method of securing these lines that anyone has used to ensure they don't leak?

TimAT

Make sure the line sets straight and square in the mating fitting and tighten it up. And the seat is clean with no rough spots. Loosen and tighten again. The problem is the SS is hard compared to the regular steel line and takes a bit more finesse to get it properly seated and sealed.

ronarndt

TimAT described the problem well. The traditional steel lines have enough softness in the metal that they will conform to small irregularities in the flare fitting connection. The stainless steel is much harder and will not, so any dirt, scratches or uneven surfaces will make the connection leak.

ignatz

Adding to the last two replies, there are flare seals of various soft metals, copper and aluminum that, if you just can't get a seal, will work. Here's a for instance

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...1erl/overview/

But try not to have to use these band-aids.

cardo0

I was curious and had to look up those flare seals. But they are for 37 degree fittings and I don't think they are used for a regular tubing flare but for "Earl's" compression fittings. All automotive brakes AFAIK are 45 degree double flare. But maybe I missed something in the thread as I browsed thought it fast.

ignatz

You are correct. I have used them now and then on gas lines but have never used them on brake lines.

Edit: I didn't find 45 degree seals at Pegasus Racing, which has been my go to source for fittings, but I did find them here

https://www.hoseandfittingsetc.com/p...are/parker-2gf

and a few other places. so I guess they exist after all. Still, especially for high pressure brake lines, it would be best to get the lines to seal all by themselves.

Mooser

I'll also ad to put a drop or two of something slippery between the back of the flare and the nut (oil, grease, anti-seize, whatever) to let the nut slip around the pipe as easy as possible without trying to gall/spin
M

3X2

Make sure the flares on the SS lines are not misformed, deformed, knicked, or out of round. You can get copper sealing cone shaped washers on ebay for like $8.00.

jpatrick62

Good idea - I'll also put some on the threads.

TimAT

An airline I used to work for used those conical seal on fuel and hydraulic lines when we couldn't get them to stop dripping. They work great when you need them- and big aircraft hydraulic systems run close to 3000 psi.

I agree with Mooser- put something between the back of the flare and the nut- but sparingly- you don't want to take a chance of getting it internally into the brake system.

Rescue Rogers

Just ordered a variety from ebay