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So I've been going every which way with this build and thought I'd make a dedicated cam choice thread to get a final recommendation from as many people as I could. I'm sticking to a flat tappet cam. I like the idea of a solid cam for nostalgia purposes and sound but will consider either solid or hydraulic.
Engine:
383 crank
64cc ported vortec heads stock valves
10-10.25:1 compression
Lift limit .550 on the heads
Long tube headers
Have Performer intake but can purchase another
Slayer 750 carb
Th400
I am planning on changing from the stock torque converter.
3.08 gears but am changing those in the future
Goals: Mean idle. Obviously as much power as streetable. Car will see track maybe once a year.
Two of my favorites are the Comp Cams Nostalgia Plus series. For a hydraulic flat, try the N+30-30H; if you like solids, try its companion, the N+30-30S. Lobe separation on both is 112*, overlap is slightly greater than the GM 30-30 solid and sounds great.
Go for the solid!!...Isky Shneider Crower Crane all make plenty of nice solid flat tappets, give them a call .
Nothing wrong with some lash either, for some reason guys seem afraid of it.
Huum mean Idle. Look up gen 1 sbc in catalog go strait to the bottom of cam listing lol. If it can idle under 1100 rpm then its not even baby mean. Solid only way to go, always. Hydraulic in the famous words of arnold... Girly man cam.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Mar 17, 2019 at 11:14 PM.
Your biggest problem is the automatic transmission. I went to a 3500 stall with my first 383 solid roller. It just didn't have the jam. So I crutch it up with a 4.11 rear end
Everyone has an opinion, but 50 year old GM cam designs are low powered garbage compared to modern lobe profiles
Crane came used to make a solid 238/248 114 lc that I used in 3 different motors, but they were all high stalls or manual transmissions
Comp Cams Xtreme Energy 08-433-8 (CSXRS288HR-10) 288/294 -0.520/.0540
This what I run in my 383 long tube headers with Vortec heads very nice rumble for sure. I have a hydraulic roller setup in mine not solid. Have not dynoed yet.
Why flat tappet? Why not roller cam and solid roller lifters? Unless you are doing the cam swap with the engine in the car. I've never read anywhere on this
Forum where someone regretted putting in a roller cam on a car they intended to keep and drive.
Why flat tappet? Why not roller cam and solid roller lifters? Unless you are doing the cam swap with the engine in the car. I've never read anywhere on this
Forum where someone regretted putting in a roller cam on a car they intended to keep and drive.
Budget mainly. This engine will be in the car for probably only a few years. When I decide to do a roller in the future I'll start off just buying a roller block if I need more hp than what I can squeeze out of a flat tappet
282s isnt bad but youll need compression, gear and at least a 3k stall
Id trust a good quality SFT to last much much longer than a solid roller...they arent cheap either for good stuff.
May not be ideal but you can go fast with old stuff.
A basic 11-12:1 350, older "big" SFT cam
4.56 gear, 3500 stall etc single plane 750dp can get you a low 12/high 11 sec car all day
Even with double humps..2.02 valve but youll spend $$$ porting them right. Or go to a TFS 175 double hump head.
These days its doing it the "hard way" but not everyone has 10k to dump in a motor. Cubes are the easiest way
I bet the posters (below)406 hauls azz. Simple & effective
So I've been going every which way with this build and thought I'd make a dedicated cam choice thread to get a final recommendation from as many people as I could. I'm sticking to a flat tappet cam. I like the idea of a solid cam for nostalgia purposes and sound but will consider either solid or hydraulic.
Engine:
383 crank
64cc ported vortec heads stock valves
10-10.25:1 compression
Lift limit .550 on the heads
Long tube headers
Th400
I am planning on changing from the stock torque converter.
3.08 gears but am changing those in the future
Goals: Mean idle. Obviously as much power as streetable. Car will see track maybe once a year.
Lay em on me!
How long will you live with the stock converter and gears should dictate just how far from stock you pick the cam.
My 406 runs a solid Isky Z-35 and has the wicked idle you are looking for, but I would not even consider it with a stock combo. Everything has got to match, at least for good performance. If the sound only is what you're after,....punch a hole in your mufflers and call it good.
How long will you live with the stock converter and gears should dictate just how far from stock you pick the cam.
My 406 runs a solid Isky Z-35 and has the wicked idle you are looking for, but I would not even consider it with a stock combo. Everything has got to match, at least for good performance. If the sound only is what you're after,....punch a hole in your mufflers and call it good.
I plan on changing the converter with the engine install. And the rear probably this winter
I'm sitting on a NIB NOS Schneider solid flat tappet cam/ lifters/springs. Sound and punch, 248*/258* on a 107* LS, but you'll want a great convertor and gears like ; 3.73/3.90/4.10.
Yep, it's more than most want. It was bought for a 407ci in a street stock racecar.
Do you have rods that will let you use a standard base circle cam ??
I'm sitting on a NIB NOS Schneider solid flat tappet cam/ lifters/springs. Sound and punch, 248*/258* on a 107* LS, but you'll want a great convertor and gears like ; 3.73/3.90/4.10.
Yep, it's more than most want. It was bought for a 407ci in a street stock racecar.
Do you have rods that will let you use a standard base circle cam ??
I've got eagle I beam SIR rods. Have not measured in block yet
All my kidding aside if your going to do a solid flat tappet, why would you not spend a hair more and step up to a proferal PRO 55 cam core. Crower and isky have a lot of off the shelf ones. to me the solid flat lifter cam best overall simplicty a person can do as in KISS. Keep it simple stupid. With behive springs today and there light retainer weight you can cut down the spring pressure some for more long term durabilty of your cam and lifters. All the BS you need double springs to help with .
... I might break the spring drop s valve. If ran lots of miles in street cars 7600 rpm solid flat tappets always used a single spring never had 1 minute of trouble. To me all that double spring nonsense only good to try and get more spring pressure for really radical solid roller.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Mar 20, 2019 at 02:27 AM.