Change water pump with Radiator


Pretty simple with a new seal and I think a new bearing too.
It reads like your interested in reliability and there's currently nothing wrong with your pump now.
Hope this can help.
Finally finished my cooling project yesterday. Ended up with a Champion radiator only $204 delivered. Added a new water pump and new hoses, thermostat, fan clutch, and new rubber hoses for the transmission fittings.
The iron water pumps are SHOCKINGLY heavy. For $50 more you can have aluminum if you shop around and save some weight and gain some bling, if that's your thing.
Adam
I phoned PRW minutes ago ... I asked where their water pumps are manufactured. They did not hesitate to answer "in mainland China."
I realize their web address includes PRW & USA ...but their online catalog does not mention any manufacturing/assembly location.
II have No experience with PRW products, but me thinks their Chinese waterpumps are overpriced.
I phoned PRW minutes ago ... I asked where their water pumps are manufactured. They did not hesitate to answer "in mainland China."
I realize their web address includes PRW & USA ...but their online catalog does not mention any manufacturing/assembly location.
II have No experience with PRW products, but me thinks their Chinese waterpumps are overpriced.
Slap "Corvette" on them and all of a sudden they're $100.
Here's a satin finished aluminum pump on sale @ Ecklers for $69; probably Chinese and not shiny but weight savings: https://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corv...All%20Products
Or by one with "Edelbrock" slapped on the side for $269 https://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350...tent=Edelbrock
Adam
Last edited by NewbVetteGuy; Apr 1, 2019 at 06:22 PM.
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Its not a bad job to replace the pump in the future and no you don't have to remove the shroud. Just clutch fan, belts, four bolts, one Rad hose, one heater hose.
Those cast iron units seem to go forever. I would hang on to it.
Every time a W.P. replacement problem pops up on this forum, its about an aftermarket unit not fitting correctly, wrong shaft size, wrong pulley spacing or poor fitting and sealing at the block.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Apr 1, 2019 at 07:09 PM.
some aluminum aftermarket short water pumps have an easily adjustable hub height. Some have a set screw in hub.
Few years back bought new weiand team G (before the twisted snout redux) that had factory-second buggered up top heater hose port threads ... ~ $25 ... I didn't need a top HH port at all ... pal heliarced it closed w 3/16" tab (I bought lunch) & I reset the hub ... nice pump also had a threaded lug for timing cover brace. I just looked, comparable new Team G now about $190. But good quality costs a bit e.g. EB Victor, Moroso, Stewart, Weiand.
Also, moroso & others make hub shims (fits between front of hub-back of pulley) and 2 or 3 of those will lengthen a short to match vette short ... shims are pretty cheap.
On the water pump subject ... ~dozen years back #16 supertruck w/ fresh 355 ... leading ...in middle of turn 3-4 at Kenly NC ... blew out passenger side freeze plug ... instantly dumped every bit of water on that side & truck slammed outside wall so hard all four off ground. Bent chassis so bad ... on jig next week, cutting front clip off ... tension in frame released and frame almost jumped off table. Totally killed it. Block got screw-in plugs asap.













