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I've recently been doing a lot of DIY work on my 76 Corvette due to a no start problem. Removed the steering wheel to replace the ignition lock cylinder, but it appears the problem lies deeper in the car. At this point it is beyond my know how, and capabilities of fixing it myself, and I'd prefer to simply take it to a shop.
Is there a way to hot wire it so I can at least start it to bring it in? I've read other threads mentioning gator clips somewhere under the hood. I'm not too familiar with classic cars, so as much details on parts and locations as possible would help. Even if pictures were involved I'd be grateful.
I understand the suspicious nature of this thread, but I'm simply looking to get the car fixed.
Suspicious nature? Oh-no. Not at all. By the way. What color are your pants, shirt, hair, skin, hat? Stay right there. The boys in blue are on the way.
There is a way to jump the starter solenoid but I think the IGN tumbler has to be in place. Otherwise no 12V would be activated to the solenoid.
Someone will help you soon. Maybe good people, maybe . . . . . . . . . .
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Had a '67 Camaro once with a similar issue. Sometimes the car wouldn't start when the ignition was turned to 'start'. Nothing! Battery was fine. So in those days when the car wouldn't start, I would put the key in the 'on' position and then take a jumper wire from the solenoid and hold it on the battery positive terminal until the car started and then removed the jumper wire from the battery. I was young and cheap back then to do a proper trouble shoot and repair.
In theory, you'd just need to get 12 volts to the HEI distributor (2 wires going to it - one is the tach, the other is the '12 volts') - maybe a wire from the battery cable connection on the starter to the distributor? And then jump the solenoid to get the engine to crank. This will fire up the engine, but the other interior functions might not work (like turn signals, etc).
However, if you were OK tearing into the steering column, you still might be able to fix it yourself. Just give us a few more details of the exact symptoms. One possibility is a bad ignition switch. The actual ignition switch is on the top side of the steering column, right before it goes thru the firewall. If you unscrew the switch and unhook it from the rod, you can just use a screw driver to move the switch to its different positions (off, acc, on, start).
Other details that would help debug the problem:
1 - does the engine crank if you jumper the 'S' terminal to the battery terminal on the starter solenoid?
Edit: Just realized you had posted symptoms in another thread. I'd recommend disconnecting the ignition switch at the column, and just using a screw driver to start the car. this will get you all other functions also, such as turn signals, and allow you to get the car to a shop.
Last edited by bradleyb66; Apr 3, 2019 at 10:24 AM.
In theory, you'd just need to get 12 volts to the HEI distributor (2 wires going to it - one is the tach, the other is the '12 volts') - maybe a wire from the battery cable connection on the starter to the distributor? And then jump the solenoid to get the engine to crank. This will fire up the engine, but the other interior functions might not work (like turn signals, etc).
However, if you were OK tearing into the steering column, you still might be able to fix it yourself. Just give us a few more details of the exact symptoms. One possibility is a bad ignition switch. The actual ignition switch is on the top side of the steering column, right before it goes thru the firewall. If you unscrew the switch and unhook it from the rod, you can just use a screw driver to move the switch to its different positions (off, acc, on, start).
Other details that would help debug the problem:
1 - does the engine crank if you jumper the 'S' terminal to the battery terminal on the starter solenoid?
Edit: Just realized you had posted symptoms in another thread. I'd recommend disconnecting the ignition switch at the column, and just using a screw driver to start the car. this will get you all other functions also, such as turn signals, and allow you to get the car to a shop.
And now I cant get the new cylinder out. Try to get the release pin in it, and it wont budge out. Also have seen some other pointers. I'll try getting it out again and using a screw driver. but past that as I mentioned I'm not familiar enough with mechanics to understand all the gears and rods that are in the steering wheel.
Hell, all these tips people are giving me for hot wiring even confuse me. I can watch videos, and copy/ paste other people's actions easy enough. But auto mechanics isn't my forte. Not show me a furnace and I'll fix it in half an hour easy, lol.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19,'24, '25
Two things come to mind,
There is a plug, its the starter harness, that can cause issues. The plug is just above and to the left side of the dissy berried in that pile of wires or at least it was on my 77.
The ignition switch is mounted on top of the steering column under the dash and I would think is the most likely culprit. The key tumbler simply pulls a wire that slides the ignition switch to the requested position. Follow the wire down the column and it will be attached to the switch.
Turn the key switch on and jump the starter solenoid and it should run and drive if the dissy has power.
And now I cant get the new cylinder out. Try to get the release pin in it, and it wont budge out. Also have seen some other pointers. I'll try getting it out again and using a screw driver. but past that as I mentioned I'm not familiar enough with mechanics to understand all the gears and rods that are in the steering wheel.
Hell, all these tips people are giving me for hot wiring even confuse me. I can watch videos, and copy/ paste other people's actions easy enough. But auto mechanics isn't my forte. Not show me a furnace and I'll fix it in half an hour easy, lol.
OK, I'd just forget about the lock cylinder - steering column internals aren't my forte either. But if you remove the actual switch from the column (under the dash), you'll be able to start the car by moving the switch thru the positions with a screw driver (taking the place of the 'rod'). The hardest part is laying on your back under the dash getting to the switch. I think there are two screws holding it to the column, and the rod will come out easily after that.
I think this was covered in the other thread, but the cylinder (for the key) connects to the switch via a 12-16" rod that actually moves the switch thru its positions. Alot of people call the 'ignition cylinder' the 'switch', but they are two different things. When we were rebuilding our 79, I started it via the disconnected switch for several months before I got the steering column stuff figured out.
Here's a website with a picture (about half way down with a big red arrow) showing where a small screw driver can be used to move the switch thru its positions.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Originally Posted by bruiser
Another option you can take out the steering column and get it fixed. I can take mine out in a half hour.
Takes me about the same but lots of folks think its a big deal and time consuming and would rather risk damage to dash pads/parts rather than remove the column to make it easier. This is especially true in threads on how to remove the pb booster without removing the column. Just sayin'.
I agree with above. Pull the column. Call Steering Columns Galore in upstate NY. They did my column on my 70 Chevelle. I swapped it out for a rebuilt unit. Jerry
If you do think you might end up pulling the column, it would be a good idea to start spraying some penetrating oil where the shaft attaches to the rag joint daily for a few days (try to avoid getting too much on the rubber part of the joint). I grew up in MN, and I know how things tend to not come apart very easy.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Not to rain on your parade but:
Dear Usserymtg,
Since you can repair a furnace you have mechanical ability and I can appreciate your enthusiasm in wanting to repair your Corvette yourself and even though you have received a lot of good advise you might consider finding a Corvette specialist to bring your car too. Not just any shop but one that specializes in C-3 Corvettes. If you were in Charlotte, NC I would send you to Dub.
Here's some information about steering columns by an expert:
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?cat=5
Scroll down to Tilt and Telescope 69-82 disassembly and repair.
While your reading parts 1 - 2 -and 3 you should order a 1976 GM Service manual and a copy of the '76 assembly manual (AIM).
This is good info. I have been frustrated that my radio blanks out and looses presets everytime I crank the car. I thought I had the correct constant power wire but I must have it connected to one of the wires that goes off during cranking. I incorrectly assumed the inexpensive radio was sensitive to low voltage and turned off because voltage drops too much during heavy load during cranking.
This is good info. I have been frustrated that my radio blanks out and looses presets everytime I crank the car. I thought I had the correct constant power wire but I must have it connected to one of the wires that goes off during cranking. I incorrectly assumed the inexpensive radio was sensitive to low voltage and turned off because voltage drops too much during heavy load during cranking.
Aftermarket radios for at least the past 20+ years- really don't have a 'memory' wire so to speak.
The red wire is used just to trigger the radio on- pulls very little power. This was done to help eliminate the possibility of noise introduced. You'll notice no noise filter or fuse on the red wire.
The yellow wire powers the radio- amplifier section and clock- most of the memory is now non-volatile- however some had an internal battery.
However if it's REALLY old- might not be the case.
I'd hook both wires to the battery and start your car- see what happens.
Originally Posted by Peterbuilt
It might be easier to plug the memory radio wire into the 'BAT' terminal in the fuse box.
Hey Peter-
The ACC on the fusebox will also have power when the ignition is on but not when starting.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Originally Posted by Richard454
Hey Peter-
The ACC on the fusebox will also have power when the ignition is on but not when starting.
Hi Richard,
Your knowledge of electronics is far superior to mine but I thought that 'Greengear' said that he was losing his presets each time he starts the car.
If he connects to the ACC terminal that will still be the problem and that is why I suggested that he use the 'battery' terminal in the fuse box.
Maybe Greengear can post his radio diagram.
Here's mine:
Hi Richard,
Your knowledge of electronics is far superior to mine but I thought that 'Greengear' said that he was losing his presets each time he starts the car.
If he connects to the ACC terminal that will still be the problem and that is why I suggested that he use the 'battery' terminal in the fuse box.
Maybe Greengear can post his radio diagram.
Here's mine:
I have a relatively new radio. Im going to test connecting both the switched and constant power to battery + as richard454 suggests. Interesting that the fuse and noise filter are now unnneeded
with the new radio circuit design. I remember cheap radios back in the day always had that annoying engine rpm dependant noise.
I was happy with the cheap amazon
radio because it matches the gauge cluster so well.
It seems to be wired correctly (turns on with key, keeps memory with key off ) except the blanking out and loosing memory during cranking.
Hot wiring a 76 Corvette.
