Changing Oil pump
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 270
Likes: 13
From: New Braunfels Texas
Changing Oil pump
Is it really this hard. Do I have to remove the engine in a 1980 Corvette to replace the oil pump. Are you f***ing kidding me. Why would anyone make it so the entire engine has to be removed to replace the oil pump?
Last edited by frytex; Apr 4, 2019 at 08:14 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
If you're going to pull the engine just to replace the oil pump, you're all about doing things the hard way. Drop the idler arm and the oil pan. Done.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 12,706
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From: Scottsdale Arizona
Good question.Also, no reason to pull the engine. Unbolt the idler arm, drop the oil pan and unbolt the pump and pickup. Easy peasy. Make sure that you put the oil pump drive back in and mesh it with the distributor too.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 270
Likes: 13
From: New Braunfels Texas
That is what I thought. I have changed the oil pump before on other cars. But when I did remove the oil pan, the pump is mounted to the bracket (if you Will) that holds the crankshaft in place at the transmission. The screws that hold the oil pump come through this bracket into the oil pump. Meaning the bolts are not on oil pump but they come down and the treads are in the pump. So I went to YouTube and it says you have to remove the engine. It is a 1980 350 Vette.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 270
Likes: 13
From: New Braunfels Texas
I was driving it and started to hear a noise like a lifter going bad. I just bought this car. Because no one has shown this car any love I thought we'll there is a chance the pump is going out let's go ahead and replace it just to ensure oil is getting moved around. But not if it means removing the engine. So I will just go and work on the knocking sound by itself.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
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From: Cool Northern Michigan
Its really not a bad job. I think the worst is scraping the old gasket off the block.
A tip is to buy a 3/8 drive extra long extension to reach the pan bolts.
If you are pulling the pump, just ten minutes more work and you can change the notorious "Rear Main Seal" leaking issue.
Consider a oil pan stud kit instead of trying to get the bolt holes, gasket & pan to line up. The kit is about $25 and you will wonder how you survived without.
The idler arm bracket has two carriage bolts / nuts. It easily drops down to give you pan clearance. In the event that the pan is fighting you, jog the IGN key. That will move the crank counter weight away from the pan.
And for what its worth. Those old cast iron pumps will go forever. The ticking sound you hear may not be a lack of oil pressure but rather a cam lobe going south. What oil was used, do you know?
A tip is to buy a 3/8 drive extra long extension to reach the pan bolts.
If you are pulling the pump, just ten minutes more work and you can change the notorious "Rear Main Seal" leaking issue.
Consider a oil pan stud kit instead of trying to get the bolt holes, gasket & pan to line up. The kit is about $25 and you will wonder how you survived without.
The idler arm bracket has two carriage bolts / nuts. It easily drops down to give you pan clearance. In the event that the pan is fighting you, jog the IGN key. That will move the crank counter weight away from the pan.
And for what its worth. Those old cast iron pumps will go forever. The ticking sound you hear may not be a lack of oil pressure but rather a cam lobe going south. What oil was used, do you know?
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Apr 4, 2019 at 08:35 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 270
Likes: 13
From: New Braunfels Texas
Luckily the gasket came right off. But can I remove the jacket that holds the crank in place where the rear main seal is located while it is in the car?
I feel like if I do this it will drop the crank and then I will not be able to get it back in place. Not sure what oil was used I was going to put 10w 30 back in it.
I feel like if I do this it will drop the crank and then I will not be able to get it back in place. Not sure what oil was used I was going to put 10w 30 back in it.
Last edited by frytex; Apr 4, 2019 at 08:40 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,367
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From: Western NY
Luckily the gasket came right off. But can I remove the jacket that holds the crank in place where the rear main seal is located while it is in the car?
I feel like if I do this it will drop the crank and then I will not be able to get it back in place. Not sure what oil was used I was going to put 10w 30 back in it.
I feel like if I do this it will drop the crank and then I will not be able to get it back in place. Not sure what oil was used I was going to put 10w 30 back in it.
It's called the "rear main cap", and NO, the crankshaft won't DROP, as it's held in place by 4 other "main caps". And while you're in there, you might want to replace the OE oil pump drive shaft, the one with the plastic connecting collar that's know to dry out and break, with a driveshaft that has a metal collar. Both Melling and Moroso sell them.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 270
Likes: 13
From: New Braunfels Texas
Thanks
????
It's called the "rear main cap", and NO, the crankshaft won't DROP, as it's held in place by 4 other "main caps". And while you're in there, you might want to replace the OE oil pump drive shaft, the one with the plastic connecting collar that's know to dry out and break, with a driveshaft that has a metal collar. Both Melling and Moroso sell them.
It's called the "rear main cap", and NO, the crankshaft won't DROP, as it's held in place by 4 other "main caps". And while you're in there, you might want to replace the OE oil pump drive shaft, the one with the plastic connecting collar that's know to dry out and break, with a driveshaft that has a metal collar. Both Melling and Moroso sell them.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Little Rock AR
The oil pump attaches with a single bolt that threads into the main bearing cap. If you remove the bolt the pump will come off but nothing else will be disturbed. If you want to replace the rear main seal, you can remove the 2 rear main cap bolts and replace away. The crank is not going anywhere.
I still worry you may be working on fixing a problem you do not have. Did you check oil pressure before you opened the tool box? I would be looking at the valve train first if the oil pressure was still good. Cams go flat and bearings wipe out much more often as compared to an oil pump wearing out. If it IS an oil pressure problem, you may have to go back in there all over again to fix that issue.
I still worry you may be working on fixing a problem you do not have. Did you check oil pressure before you opened the tool box? I would be looking at the valve train first if the oil pressure was still good. Cams go flat and bearings wipe out much more often as compared to an oil pump wearing out. If it IS an oil pressure problem, you may have to go back in there all over again to fix that issue.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 270
Likes: 13
From: New Braunfels Texas
I did not my oil pressure gauge is reading 0 which is why I thought lets replace it. But it could also be the gauge is bad. But I already have it apart and i bought the parts so I guess I will go ahead and replace it and the rear main seal while I am under the car anyways. And get back to the noise.
The oil pump attaches with a single bolt that threads into the main bearing cap. If you remove the bolt the pump will come off but nothing else will be disturbed. If you want to replace the rear main seal, you can remove the 2 rear main cap bolts and replace away. The crank is not going anywhere.
I still worry you may be working on fixing a problem you do not have. Did you check oil pressure before you opened the tool box? I would be looking at the valve train first if the oil pressure was still good. Cams go flat and bearings wipe out much more often as compared to an oil pump wearing out. If it IS an oil pressure problem, you may have to go back in there all over again to fix that issue.
I still worry you may be working on fixing a problem you do not have. Did you check oil pressure before you opened the tool box? I would be looking at the valve train first if the oil pressure was still good. Cams go flat and bearings wipe out much more often as compared to an oil pump wearing out. If it IS an oil pressure problem, you may have to go back in there all over again to fix that issue.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,367
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From: Western NY
I did not my oil pressure gauge is reading 0 which is why I thought lets replace it. But it could also be the gauge is bad. But I already have it apart and i bought the parts so I guess I will go ahead and replace it and the rear main seal while I am under the car anyways. And get back to the noise.
BTW, how old is your oil filter, and is it a good filter, not a crappy "orange Fram"? Filters can sometimes disintegrate, internally, causing restrictions.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 270
Likes: 13
From: New Braunfels Texas
Since I just bought it I am not sure how old so I purchased a new one since I was replacing the pump already I thought I would just do a complete change out of oil components so that I knew that they are now new and working. Same with rear main seal
Le Mans Master
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From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
Samaritan @ New Braunfels
OP frytex
Good Thinking to be proactive on these matters ... but as stingr69 & leadfoot4 said above ... should have first used a separate remote gauge to verify oil pressure.
Seems there're a few CF members on this forum who reside in New Braunfels area and have applicable experience ... perhaps one might chime in with an offer of handy advice?
Good Thinking to be proactive on these matters ... but as stingr69 & leadfoot4 said above ... should have first used a separate remote gauge to verify oil pressure.
Seems there're a few CF members on this forum who reside in New Braunfels area and have applicable experience ... perhaps one might chime in with an offer of handy advice?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
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From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
If you're changing oil pump, suggest you also replace screen & pickup tube with new, correct part.
There's a bit of technique involved with properly aligning & seating that into oil pump.
There's a bit of technique involved with properly aligning & seating that into oil pump.
NCM Grand Opening Veteran
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: South of giving a damn
St. Jude Donor '11, '17
And this would be why you should buy a quality aftermarket pump that has a bolt on integrated pickup tube/screen.
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: New Braunfels Texas
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Apr 4, 2019 at 01:22 PM.