Best 100+ amp alternator for 69?
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Best 100+ amp alternator for 69?
I am running electric radiator fans and a Vintage A/C on my 69 383 with Sniper
I was advised that I probably need to upgrade to at least a 100 amp alternator.
They also said not to get a one wire alternator, but I am not sure what is meant by that.
Is this correct?
Any suggestions?
I found this
https://www.corvettemods.com/C3-Corv...4_p_16991.html
Thanks
Glenn in San Diego
I was advised that I probably need to upgrade to at least a 100 amp alternator.
They also said not to get a one wire alternator, but I am not sure what is meant by that.
Is this correct?
Any suggestions?
I found this
https://www.corvettemods.com/C3-Corv...4_p_16991.html
Thanks
Glenn in San Diego
#2
Team Owner
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gleninsandiego (04-11-2019)
#3
Burning Brakes
When my alternator wasn't performing well in my 69, I upgraded to a CS144 alternator that I picked up used at a pick-n-pull salvage yard (since I was planning on installing electric fans in the future). If you do a search for 'CS144 alternator upgrade' on the forum, you'll find all sorts of threads with info.
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PainfullySlow (04-11-2019)
#4
Burning Brakes
When my alternator wasn't performing well in my 69, I upgraded to a CS144 alternator that I picked up used at a pick-n-pull salvage yard (since I was planning on installing electric fans in the future). If you do a search for 'CS144 alternator upgrade' on the forum, you'll find all sorts of threads with info.
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gleninsandiego (04-11-2019)
#5
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I would look for a CS130 or CS144 alternator as a replacement. They have a great idle output which matches well with electric fans.
You will have to update the alternator to starter solenoid wiring.
Search for Corvette Mods in the feedback forum here. That shady a company doesn't deserve any business.
You will have to update the alternator to starter solenoid wiring.
Search for Corvette Mods in the feedback forum here. That shady a company doesn't deserve any business.
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gleninsandiego (04-11-2019)
#6
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Depending on how much of a 'hands on' guy you are, this may be a good route to take. I personally went this route. CS144 from junkyard for $20 + $40 complete rebuild kit including all bearings, regulator, etc = $60 100+amp alternator that is made to my specs...I even powder coated the metal bits while I had it apart.
No fan? That really hurts the cooling which in turn hurts the output capability.
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gleninsandiego (04-11-2019)
#7
Race Director
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gleninsandiego (04-11-2019)
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gleninsandiego (04-11-2019)
#9
Team Owner
I went with the 100 power master because of several reasons. One being the smaller size compared to 140 amp. You need to worry about valve cover clearance
I have added 30 amps of Spal electric fans and additional LED head lights with my existing 4 halogen.
I also run the bigger diameter alternator pulley so that it spins less rpm
I have added 30 amps of Spal electric fans and additional LED head lights with my existing 4 halogen.
I also run the bigger diameter alternator pulley so that it spins less rpm
#10
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A 12SI 96A alternator would typically produce about 50-60A at idle.
A CS130D 105A alternator would typically produce about 70-85A at idle.
A CS144 140A alternator would typically produce about 95-105A at idle.
The idle output depends on the idle rpm of your engine and the pulley ratio. Typically, you want to be in the 2000-2500 rpm range at idle, or around a 2.5:1 to 3:1 pulley ratio. The other one to be aware of is keeping the redline rpm below about 18,000-20,000 rpm.
Count up the load with the fans, lights, HVAC and fuel injection all operating at once and decide which alternator works at an idle. Ideally, you always want to maintain 14V, which means you want an alternator with 20% or 30% more capacity than you need. If it's marginal, then you get into issues like the signals causing everything else to flicker slightly in time with them flashing.
A CS130D 105A alternator would typically produce about 70-85A at idle.
A CS144 140A alternator would typically produce about 95-105A at idle.
The idle output depends on the idle rpm of your engine and the pulley ratio. Typically, you want to be in the 2000-2500 rpm range at idle, or around a 2.5:1 to 3:1 pulley ratio. The other one to be aware of is keeping the redline rpm below about 18,000-20,000 rpm.
Count up the load with the fans, lights, HVAC and fuel injection all operating at once and decide which alternator works at an idle. Ideally, you always want to maintain 14V, which means you want an alternator with 20% or 30% more capacity than you need. If it's marginal, then you get into issues like the signals causing everything else to flicker slightly in time with them flashing.
Last edited by lionelhutz; 04-11-2019 at 04:36 PM.
#11
Safety Car
I've got the Powermaster 140 amp CS130 version in my '69. Same size as stock, bolt in. I remember upgrading a wire when it was installed. Very satisfied with it, as I have an electric fan and water pump. It keeps the lights bright at Idle.
#12
Team Owner
I think that my 105 is limited to 17,600. It came with two different pulley diameters. I also already have a smaller crankshaft pulley
Anyway it works fine for my 7500 rpm motors
Anyway it works fine for my 7500 rpm motors
#13
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CS-144, need the extra juice at idle/slow speed not on the highway.
Easy swap on the SB, a little more involved on the BB
M
Easy swap on the SB, a little more involved on the BB
M
#14
Melting Slicks
GW...this is pretty good unit for the money...if you don't care about matching numbers.
Note and Caution....you most probably will have to clock the front to the back....this is a super easy procedure even for the faint of heart!
Unkahal
Note and Caution....you most probably will have to clock the front to the back....this is a super easy procedure even for the faint of heart!
Unkahal
#15
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the suggestions, please keep them coming
As weird as this might sound, I would prefer not to have it chrome
and most of these suggestions are
maybe i could paint it LOL
Glenn
As weird as this might sound, I would prefer not to have it chrome
and most of these suggestions are
maybe i could paint it LOL
Glenn
#16
Melting Slicks
Same name and spelling as my younger brother...you NEED Help! lol
You could! scuff it up, and prime and paint....pretty good deal. When I got mine I had to do the clocking thing on my 82...so clean and nice inside...'twas a shame to put it back together!
Unkahal
THANKS FOR SAYING THANKS instead of L*K*......mind numbing drivel!
You could! scuff it up, and prime and paint....pretty good deal. When I got mine I had to do the clocking thing on my 82...so clean and nice inside...'twas a shame to put it back together!
Unkahal
THANKS FOR SAYING THANKS instead of L*K*......mind numbing drivel!
Last edited by L-46man; 04-11-2019 at 06:49 PM.
#17
Team Owner
It also comes in brushed aluminum
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gleninsandiego (04-12-2019)
#18
Race Director
If you do care about matching numbers, put this stator in your existing alternator. https://www.ebay.com/p/Delco-Alterna...a6a0b0ffafbea3
Last edited by derekderek; 04-12-2019 at 05:31 PM.
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gleninsandiego (04-12-2019)
#19
Team Owner
20 some odd years ago I put a 17SI alt in my '72 with dual spal fans......ran a wire from alt out stud directly to fan control device....30 amp fuse.....alt is 108 amp.....a tad larger in diameter than a 10-12SI ......
no need to mess with stock harness, just run the power wire directly....
ground to frame/cross support.....done....
no need to mess with stock harness, just run the power wire directly....
ground to frame/cross support.....done....
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gleninsandiego (04-12-2019)