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Inboard strut rod bushings on my '80 are shot - is it possible to replace the bushings? If so, any downside to doing that? Special tools for the job and tips/tricks?
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
This isn't answering your question, but unless you want to keep the stock look, I would go with the heim joint mod and be done with it. I recently did mine and should have done it years ago. The car feels so much more stable and planted now. Extremely easy to adjust and it won't shift after you lock down the nuts.
This isn't answering your question, but unless you want to keep the stock look, I would go with the heim joint mod and be done with it. I recently did mine and should have done it years ago. The car feels so much more stable and planted now. Extremely easy to adjust and it won't shift after you lock down the nuts.
Interesting. What's the longevity on these compared to bushings? What kind of maintenance do they need? Is there a reference that spells out how to do this?
Last edited by brassplyer; Apr 13, 2019 at 09:54 PM.
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Well, I went from stock rubber SRs to poly SRs and both IMO weren't worth a damn. I could never figure out why my poly SRs would not hold a setting after getting them were I wanted or even close. The poly was fairly new, so I figured it couldn't be warn out. Well...they were worn out at the inner bushings that you can not see by just looking at it, you have to remove the SR to see what's going on. They were completely gone on one side and that is the reason why they wouldn't hold an adjustment. Some members on here will say they have had poly bushings since Christ was a corporal and never had an issue. OK, that's fine is fine and dandy, but mine were toast so I replaced them and it would appear that they should last a good long time. Even if they go bad a few years down the road it will very simple to just unscrew the heim joint and screw in a new one, make the adjustment and be done. You will not have to replace the entire SR to fix it.
I don't know of any real maintenance you have to do, but may put some lube on the swivel from time to time. Since mine is not a DD or even close to being a DD, mine should out last me on this planet. Maybe some one else will chime in about periodic maintenance needed. Good luck whichever path you take.
Even if they go bad a few years down the road it will very simple to just unscrew the heim joint and screw in a new one, make the adjustment and be done. You will not have to replace the entire SR to fix it.
Where did you get the joints? They should screw into the existing struts?
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
These are what I use and were referred by BigBird I believe it was, (see link below) not entirely sure on the member now. I used the 13" and works perfect. The heims are from I think Aurora. I did mine a little different than most on here. The shock end has to be 5/8", but the inner end to diff is only 1/2". I couldn't see using a 1/2" bolt, so I had my machinist make the shim stock to fit perfect along with heim beveled shim for rotation and then made the "C" channel diff bracket accommodate a 5/8" bolt. Works perfect and used grade 8 bolts on everything. You can buy the heims at various places including Speedway racing and the all the parts needed. I also used chrome moly heims, 3/4" thread and 5/8" hole on both ends. Hope this helps. Strut Rod
You will also need a left and right hand heim, use whichever type you like, Speedway sells them also.
Here are the jam nuts also from Speedway:Jam Nuts
Here is the PN for the cone spacers I used with 5/8" hole, both ends of rod. Cone Spacers
Last edited by Buccaneer; Apr 15, 2019 at 05:16 PM.
Strut rod bushings replaceable?
