ehrhartc

I have reviewed just about every post available on a no-crank issue with the C3's. In every one there is reference to a yellow wire going to the R terminal (frame side) and the purple wire going to the S terminal (block side). The AIM shows the same thing. My '74 is bone stock original - never touched - still has all the original hoses, belts, alternator, starter, fuel pump - fully numbers matching, so I know the wiring has never been tampered with - even confirmed with the original owner from whom I purchased it.

My starter wires are all braided - when I peel a bit of the braiding back, I find one is pink (larger diameter wire) and the smaller one is red - there is no purple and yellow.
I had marked the smaller wire as the frame side terminal and the larger wire as the block side terminal. The center one is a no-brainer.

The car has had no start up issues since I bought it 6 months ago. I decided to rebuild the engine due to a worn intake lobe on #8 - so I pulled the motor and transmission. Put everything back the way I removed it (I believe) and now have a no-crank when I turn the key - no click, no noise, no nothing. When I turn the key to Start - in Park (TH400) the lights dim, in Neutral, the lights dim, in Reverse, Third, Second, and First, the lights do not dim and the key buzzer goes off - this leads me to believe the neutral safety switch is allowing voltage to pass to the solenoid. I pulled the starter and had it tested at the parts house and it "failed" so I purchased a new starter - had it tested first to ensure it worked properly before installing - and still have exactly the same reaction - no crank, no click, no noise.

The one thing that does bother me is I am able to move the shifter almost into reverse without turning the ignition key - went underneath and checked the park lockout cable and the correct position of the shifter cable and made sure the transmission was fully forward in the park position - it all lined up.

Checked charge on battery, ground cable from block to frame, and ground from battery to frame - all clean and tight.

The seat belt interlock is out of play as the previous owner had disconnected the plug-ins under the seats years ago and I have not disturbed this set up - therefore, the interlock override button on the firewall should not be a factor.

Any suggestions????

Gunfighter13

Pull the two wires off and test them. One should go to the coil and one goes to the ignition / neutral switch. The one that has power with the key turned to start goes to the "S" terminal and the coil one goes to the "I" terminal.

ehrhartc

the S terminal wire is a 12 gauge - large and the R terminal is a 20 gauge - so I hooked them up with large (block side )and small (frame side) per AIM.
off to the parts store to get a voltage check light.

ToomRaider

For giggles, connect a battery jumper cable from the starter case to the negative post of the battery. I had a similar problem with my 454 motorhome. Resistance between the starter mounting and block to ground cable.
The hint is that the lights dim indicating that it's drawing current, so I believe that you have the correct wires connected.

L-46man

I have seen multi layers of beautifully applied paint to starter and engine ACT AS AN INSULATOR and negate the ground circuit....Scrape the paint....oh painful to do!

Unkahal

Peterbuilt

#1 Momentarily jumper from solenoid top battery cable to the 'S' terminal and see if the starter works.

#2 Have a helper turn the key to START and check for 12 volts at the 'S' terminal.
If no battery voltage at the 'S' terminal check that there is 12 volts into and out of the neutral safety switch.




'74 schematic:
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...TRkNTFkY2E0NmM

Post back your results and someone else will help.

ehrhartc

So here I am - the ***-U-ME.......

after days of trying to chase the no start problem down.....I decided today to install and test my "Power Beam" headlights....in doing so, I noticed the brightness was not where it should be. The light bulb in my feeble brain went off - maybe the battery was charged enough to light and work everything except the solenoid.

Took the battery out - installed a recently purchased one for my 1970 big block - and guess what ???

it cranks......when all else fails.....

ToomRaider

But.....But......But. You “checked the charge” on the battery.

Peterbuilt

He must have used a test light or a meter and got 12 volts, not a load test.
At least he has a happy ending.

ehrhartc

ToomRaider is correct - I did not do a load test.
Thanks to all for your input.