Fuse box corrosion ehlp
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 13,300
Likes: 16
From: TX
St. Jude Donor '12-'13
Fuse box corrosion ehlp
I've been putting it off, but now it's time. Earlier today I left my 80 idling in the driveway, came back a couple minutes later and saw the temp had risen to 250 degrees, because my electric fans didn't turn on. Pulled the fan spade connection at the fuse block (ignition source), blew on it plugged back in, and fans came on. I pulled several fuses in the fuse panel and checked for corrosion, and about half are covered with white powder/ corrosion.
My turn signals, horn, and wipers are not working, and I suspect the panel corrosion is to blame.
I plan to pull it apart tomorrow.
Questions:
Are replacement fuse terminals (inside the panel) available?
How do I remove the terminals from the panel to clean or replace? I though about a small flat head, but if I pry it out, it won't stay in once I put it back together.
Anyone ever tackled this? Any advice would be appreciated.
My turn signals, horn, and wipers are not working, and I suspect the panel corrosion is to blame.
I plan to pull it apart tomorrow.
Questions:
Are replacement fuse terminals (inside the panel) available?
How do I remove the terminals from the panel to clean or replace? I though about a small flat head, but if I pry it out, it won't stay in once I put it back together.
Anyone ever tackled this? Any advice would be appreciated.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 397
Likes: 77
From: Jasper, GA
I don't think you can get spare contacts but you could contact Lectric Limited and ask them since they ship new ones as part of wiring harnesses. Also, you may not need new ones at all.
I would disconnect the battery, remove all the fuses, spray with contact cleaner, let dry, and then put new fuses in.
I guess the "white" corrosion is from water penetrating the fuse box area, I would look at where the source of water is from and attempt to fix that.
(I guess you can add dielectric grease to the terminals to help keep moisture out).
Richard
I would disconnect the battery, remove all the fuses, spray with contact cleaner, let dry, and then put new fuses in.
I guess the "white" corrosion is from water penetrating the fuse box area, I would look at where the source of water is from and attempt to fix that.
(I guess you can add dielectric grease to the terminals to help keep moisture out).
Richard
Last edited by lakerider57; Apr 18, 2019 at 05:04 PM.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Years ago we took a putty knife and ground the size down to fit into the fuse slots for the later style cars, then we glued sand paper to both sides and inserted it in the fuse slot. Sand in and outward a few times, then apply some dielectric grease... problem solved.
Willcox
Willcox
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 13,300
Likes: 16
From: TX
St. Jude Donor '12-'13
Years ago we took a putty knife and ground the size down to fit into the fuse slots for the later style cars, then we glued sand paper to both sides and inserted it in the fuse slot. Sand in and outward a few times, then apply some dielectric grease... problem solved.
Willcox
Willcox
Pro
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 729
Likes: 118
From: Kelowna British Columbia
If you go to an electronics store you can but a fiberglass pen. It has a cartridge that screws out ond bristles. Might need a few extra fiberglass bristles but will clean it up nice. Then you can buy some contact enhancer and apply and let dry. Problem solved. When I worked in a radio shop this is how we cleaned and fixed edge connectors on circuit boards
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,990
Likes: 183
From: Port St. Lucie Fl
if they are that corroded you need to split the fuse box and check the wires and terminals on both sides.. Mine had corrosion built up in the terminals that connect the two halves, it caused so much resistance thecharge wire got hot and melted the insulation off and melted the plastic of the halves near that terminal. I replaced my entire harness.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 13,300
Likes: 16
From: TX
St. Jude Donor '12-'13
Well f***. Tried the metal nail file, and it worked, until one of the fuse receptacles broke- seems the metal was too corroded and weakened, and just snapped off. The sanding/ filing worked well enough on the others (which weren't nearly as corroded.)
After this f*** up, I pulled the engine side firewall connector off, pulled the panel and separated the clips, but it seems that without removing the dash and unplugging every single electrical connection, I can't move the panel more than a few inches. So I'm kind of stuck.
The fuse holder tab that broke only broke off one of the four metal tabs that hold the turn signal fuse in place, so I *think* the fuse/ circuit will still work. But if it doesn't I was considering bypassing the panel for this circuit only (wiring an inline fuse into the circuit). I sure as hell don't want to install a new wiring harness. My back and hands are already aching after only a couple of hours under the dash, and the new harness is about 1k.
Ideas on how to get the panel more than a couple inches from the firewall?
Thoughts on bypassing the panel for the turn signal fuse?
After this f*** up, I pulled the engine side firewall connector off, pulled the panel and separated the clips, but it seems that without removing the dash and unplugging every single electrical connection, I can't move the panel more than a few inches. So I'm kind of stuck.
The fuse holder tab that broke only broke off one of the four metal tabs that hold the turn signal fuse in place, so I *think* the fuse/ circuit will still work. But if it doesn't I was considering bypassing the panel for this circuit only (wiring an inline fuse into the circuit). I sure as hell don't want to install a new wiring harness. My back and hands are already aching after only a couple of hours under the dash, and the new harness is about 1k.
Ideas on how to get the panel more than a couple inches from the firewall?
Thoughts on bypassing the panel for the turn signal fuse?
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 355
Likes: 18
From: Corona Ca
Going thru this on an 70 Monte Carlo, took out the harness, wrapped it up, masked off the plastic of the fuse black to preserve finish and lettering, and bead blasted it. Not masked enough, as I got media in the bulkhead connector and the sealant there, but it cleaned the terminals very well. Definitely a harness-out-of-the-car project. A friend used a miniature wire wheel on a Dremel for his Vair, worked well too.
For your damaged terminal, they can be removed, very laborious process but can be accomplished. You need to release the tangs holding the terminal in and pull it from the back. Unfortunately it may be a harness-out-of-the-car project as well.
For your damaged terminal, they can be removed, very laborious process but can be accomplished. You need to release the tangs holding the terminal in and pull it from the back. Unfortunately it may be a harness-out-of-the-car project as well.
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Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 397
Likes: 77
From: Jasper, GA
Well f***. Tried the metal nail file, and it worked, until one of the fuse receptacles broke- seems the metal was too corroded and weakened, and just snapped off. The sanding/ filing worked well enough on the others (which weren't nearly as corroded.)
After this f*** up, I pulled the engine side firewall connector off, pulled the panel and separated the clips, but it seems that without removing the dash and unplugging every single electrical connection, I can't move the panel more than a few inches. So I'm kind of stuck.
The fuse holder tab that broke only broke off one of the four metal tabs that hold the turn signal fuse in place, so I *think* the fuse/ circuit will still work. But if it doesn't I was considering bypassing the panel for this circuit only (wiring an inline fuse into the circuit). I sure as hell don't want to install a new wiring harness. My back and hands are already aching after only a couple of hours under the dash, and the new harness is about 1k.
Ideas on how to get the panel more than a couple inches from the firewall?
Thoughts on bypassing the panel for the turn signal fuse?
After this f*** up, I pulled the engine side firewall connector off, pulled the panel and separated the clips, but it seems that without removing the dash and unplugging every single electrical connection, I can't move the panel more than a few inches. So I'm kind of stuck.
The fuse holder tab that broke only broke off one of the four metal tabs that hold the turn signal fuse in place, so I *think* the fuse/ circuit will still work. But if it doesn't I was considering bypassing the panel for this circuit only (wiring an inline fuse into the circuit). I sure as hell don't want to install a new wiring harness. My back and hands are already aching after only a couple of hours under the dash, and the new harness is about 1k.
Ideas on how to get the panel more than a couple inches from the firewall?
Thoughts on bypassing the panel for the turn signal fuse?
richard
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 13,300
Likes: 16
From: TX
St. Jude Donor '12-'13
As an FYI for anyone else with a similar problem, a cheap, thin metal fingernail file works great for this purpose. I ground down the pointed tip, and shortened the file as it's nearly impossible to maneuver under the dash. Emory boards will not work- they are too thick (and you don't want the grit coming off inside the fuse clips anyway.)
here are the steps I used
1. blow loose corrosion out of panel with compressed air
2. Sand lightly with metal file (but don't break a terminal!!)
2. Separate the two halves of the fuse panel (built in plastic clips in the corners), and spray front and back side of each slot with Deoxit 5 This is seriously good stuff that removes corrosion and leaves the contacts protected.
4. Sand again
5. Blow everything out w/ compressed air.
I didn't use any dielectric grease because I was out of it and thought it wouldn't be needed since the deoxit leaves a protection barrier. I plan to pull fuses periodically to check to see if the issue recurred. If it does, I'll try the dielectric grease.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 397
Likes: 77
From: Jasper, GA
Thank you Richard, very kind of you. Sent you a PM.
As an FYI for anyone else with a similar problem, a cheap, thin metal fingernail file works great for this purpose. I ground down the pointed tip, and shortened the file as it's nearly impossible to maneuver under the dash. Emory boards will not work- they are too thick (and you don't want the grit coming off inside the fuse clips anyway.)
here are the steps I used
1. blow loose corrosion out of panel with compressed air
2. Sand lightly with metal file (but don't break a terminal!!)
2. Separate the two halves of the fuse panel (built in plastic clips in the corners), and spray front and back side of each slot with Deoxit 5 https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-De...03658380&psc=1
This is seriously good stuff that removes corrosion and leaves the contacts protected.
4. Sand again
5. Blow everything out w/ compressed air.
I didn't use any dielectric grease because I was out of it and thought it wouldn't be needed since the deoxit leaves a protection barrier. I plan to pull fuses periodically to check to see if the issue recurred. If it does, I'll try the dielectric grease.
As an FYI for anyone else with a similar problem, a cheap, thin metal fingernail file works great for this purpose. I ground down the pointed tip, and shortened the file as it's nearly impossible to maneuver under the dash. Emory boards will not work- they are too thick (and you don't want the grit coming off inside the fuse clips anyway.)
here are the steps I used
1. blow loose corrosion out of panel with compressed air
2. Sand lightly with metal file (but don't break a terminal!!)
2. Separate the two halves of the fuse panel (built in plastic clips in the corners), and spray front and back side of each slot with Deoxit 5 https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-De...03658380&psc=1
This is seriously good stuff that removes corrosion and leaves the contacts protected.
4. Sand again
5. Blow everything out w/ compressed air.
I didn't use any dielectric grease because I was out of it and thought it wouldn't be needed since the deoxit leaves a protection barrier. I plan to pull fuses periodically to check to see if the issue recurred. If it does, I'll try the dielectric grease.
For instance, the top four contacts are all tied together, ign, ign, gauges, and ign. Most of the sets tied together are 2,3, or 4.
Richard