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My lt1 runs great at idle and also when you quick hit the throttle is super responsive however at WOT the thing bogs out and backfires thru the carb. I believe it's a fuel issue as I have great steady vacuum and the initial timing has been set correct. I will try the total timing this weekend but I really think when the secondaries open it's not getting any fuel as the butterflies and veturies seem bone dry. I did rebuild the carb and adjusted the best I could but how can I check if fuel is actually being released from the secondary side?
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
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I don't think a backfire is indicative of no fuel. I think you're on the right track with the timing. I would guess that you're either get too much vacuum advance or your not getting any. I would start with the easy things first then venture into the carb. A backfire through the carb to me means your igniting your mixture and its coming back through the valves versus pushing the piston down (timing).
If it was backfiring thought the exhaust I would think lean condition then. ( carb like you were thinking)
if you have the original 780 or any Holley with a float bowl with removable screws to check the float level, have you checked the float level when the engine is running?
When you rebuilt the carburetor, did you use the original sliver colored secondary spring or change it to something else?
So I think I have another issue. I tried setting advance timing and I can't get it anywhere near 38 degrees. It only wants to run halfway decent when it's in the 40s. Valve timing issue?
if you have the original 780 or any Holley with a float bowl with removable screws to check the float level, have you checked the float level when the engine is running?
When you rebuilt the carburetor, did you use the original sliver colored secondary spring or change it to something else?
Original 4555 Holley and I didn't replace any of the springs. Floats appear to be set correct
Another thing I noticed is that it has headers that don't seal very well as they are very loud and some of the plugs are turning black in the outside from exhaust leaking past. Could it possibly be a back pressure issue as well? I have the stock manifolds and I ordered exhaust for it last week. Will be installing on the holiday weekend but was wondering if I should just pull the front cover while I'm at it and inspect the timing chain alignment?
Is your distributor stock or modified, softer advance springs?
where did you come up with the number 38, 36 is usually the total number with vacuum disconnected?
Are you using a dial back timing light or have a marked damper?
there are easier ways to check for chain stretch than opening up the cover, it involves rotating the crank one way by hand and then rotating the other way by hand, can provide more detail if necessary.
Is your distributor stock or modified, softer advance springs?
where did you come up with the number 38, 36 is usually the total number with vacuum disconnected?
Are you using a dial back timing light or have a marked damper?
there are easier ways to check for chain stretch than opening up the cover, it involves rotating the crank one way by hand and then rotating the other way by hand, can provide more detail if necessary.
Stock distributor, dial back timing light, and 36-38 doesn't really matter at this point as it's in the upper 40s. I'm going to try putting another distributor I know is good and is an Hei distributor to see where I'm at. Will update soon!
If you got a few backfires through the Holley carb, check the power valve. They will often time blow out after a carb backfire. I would also check the vacuum advance can on the distributor. You can use a hand held pump from HF. Jerry
Stock distributor, dial back timing light, and 36-38 doesn't really matter at this point as it's in the upper 40s. I'm going to try putting another distributor I know is good and is an Hei distributor to see where I'm at. Will update soon!
You cant set maximum timing on a stock distributor with the original springs, they are too stiff. Set your initial timing at idle to the stock number until you modify the distributor.
You cant set maximum timing on a stock distributor with the original springs, they are too stiff. Set your initial timing at idle to the stock number until you modify the distributor.
I removed the springs so I could achieve maximum advance. I used the techniques listed in Lar's timing paper
There are lot's of possibilities.
Are you checking timing at 3000 rpm with advance disconnected?
If yes and it still likes 40 I would check to see if the balancer has slipped. Find TDC with a piston stop, and then degree in the balancer. With out a degree wheel you could mark sharpie lines at say 3 inches either side of zero, etc.
There are lot's of possibilities.
Are you checking timing at 3000 rpm with advance disconnected?
If yes and it still likes 40 I would check to see if the balancer has slipped. Find TDC with a piston stop, and then degree in the balancer. With out a degree wheel you could mark sharpie lines at say 3 inches either side of zero, etc.
A few years back I found my factory balancer had slipped. Making the timing mark useless not to mention other problems. I got a performance balancer from summit that has timing marks stamped on it. No need for a dial back or timing tape now.
Something is definitely wrong if it only runs O.K. in the 40's
There are lot's of possibilities.
Are you checking timing at 3000 rpm with advance disconnected?
If yes and it still likes 40 I would check to see if the balancer has slipped. Find TDC with a piston stop, and then degree in the balancer. With out a degree wheel you could mark sharpie lines at say 3 inches either side of zero, etc.
You can't really do anything until you confirm that your timing marks are correct.