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fitting a GM Turnkey Crate engine - hood clearance

 
Old 05-16-2019, 10:35 AM
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vince vette 2
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Default fitting a GM Turnkey Crate engine - hood clearance

Looking a year or two out considering options to replace the L82 engine in my '80. At this point I am willing to trade $ to get more time on the road, so I'm looking for a turn key option. A couple GM crate engines, hit the spot for me, e.g. the SP350 385 hp and the ZZ6 350/405. However, I know the SP350 has a taller intake than the L82 and I suspect the ZZ6 is using the same. Has anyone fit one of these in and what was the solution, e.g. swapping to a low rise filter?

Blueprint has a 383/430 hp turn key which they specifically note won't clear, but will swap in a different manifold for vettes. But I really don't want to cross the 400 hp threshold with the Dana 44 rear end (I know many having successfully but for my driving 400 is enough and I figure why take the risk that I happen to have one of the weaker bearing caps in the Dana). Further, the Blueprint 383 and the GM turn key crates are in the same cost bracket but the GM's have some nicer internals. So i'd prefer to go with them if there's and easy fix to the clearance (not cutting a hole in the hood ) which won't potentially void the warranty, such as swapping out the intake.
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Old 05-16-2019, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by vince vette 2 View Post
Looking a year or two out considering options to replace the L82 engine in my '80. At this point I am willing to trade $ to get more time on the road, so I'm looking for a turn key option. A couple GM crate engines, hit the spot for me, e.g. the SP350 385 hp and the ZZ6 350/405. However, I know the SP350 has a taller intake than the L82 and I suspect the ZZ6 is using the same. Has anyone fit one of these in and what was the solution, e.g. swapping to a low rise filter?

Blueprint has a 383/430 hp turn key which they specifically note won't clear, but will swap in a different manifold for vettes. But I really don't want to cross the 400 hp threshold with the Dana 44 rear end (I know many having successfully but for my driving 400 is enough and I figure why take the risk that I happen to have one of the weaker bearing caps in the Dana). Further, the Blueprint 383 and the GM turn key crates are in the same cost bracket but the GM's have some nicer internals. So i'd prefer to go with them if there's and easy fix to the clearance (not cutting a hole in the hood ) which won't potentially void the warranty, such as swapping out the intake.
The zz6 uses fastburn heads, this requires you to use vortec style intakes limiting your options.
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Old 05-16-2019, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Kacyc3 View Post
The zz6 uses fastburn heads, this requires you to use vortec style intakes limiting your options.
Good to know. Are there any significant limitations on header options?

Also, I assume it is basically bolt in from engine mount perspective. Is that true?
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Old 05-16-2019, 10:55 AM
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Any standard head engine will take your intake and carb. Once you are going that route though you may as well buy a long block, not a crate. Personally I would have a roller short block with fuel pump mount built choosing the pistons, cam, etc I want. Then get the heads I want.
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Old 05-16-2019, 11:21 AM
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GM sells warranteed crates with heads but without any intake manifold ... that's a "long block."

So long as you choose/install/swap an intake that's intended for GM's head, seems it would not violate any GM warranty.

Ask GM?

Most crate suppliers (including Blueprint) employ a used 1 pc RMS block that's bored to its practical limit of 4.040".

Smeding Performance uses New blocks. Have several 350 & 383 options. All with 2 - 3yr unlimited mileage warranty. Seems all are dynoed.
They also offer intake options. I have No experience with Smeding.

http://www.smedingperformance.com/chevy/
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Old 05-16-2019, 11:31 AM
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USe a drop base air filter it will fit. Get the 383 if theres anywya possible youll never build a 350 again. Promise
THe torque is a blast.
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Old 05-16-2019, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette View Post
USe a drop base air filter it will fit. Get the 383 if theres anywya possible youll never build a 350 again. Promise
THe torque is a blast.
As long as the blast isn't my aluminum Dana 44 coming apart
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Old 05-16-2019, 12:36 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I'll take a look at Smedly.

On getting a short or long block to build, while I know that can allow me some freedom it also gets me into being the guy that has to figure out does this piece really play nice with that piece, what's the best choice of whatever component for the money, working to get the tuning right between carb, distributor, and whatever, etc. The ability to drop in an engine which someone else has made many copies of and thus knows it all works well together will help ensure I get time in the vette instead of under it, which is where I've been off and on for the last 5 years during which I maybe put a hundred miles on it. Having just turned 60 I'm putting a premium on ease of assembly so to speak. I'm willing to forego some optimization for that. On the fun side, any of the crates will punch up the gross hp by about 100 over the L82's net 230 hp.
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Old 05-16-2019, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by vince vette 2 View Post
Good to know. Are there any significant limitations on header options?

Also, I assume it is basically bolt in from engine mount perspective. Is that true?
they also use raised D exhaust ports that can sealing issues with smaller headers. I have them with my 1 3/4 headers and dont have any issues. A better option may be to buy a short block and get heads like the new TFS double hump heads, AFR etc.. that use standard intakes and exhaust ports.
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Old 05-16-2019, 12:42 PM
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Its not going to break unless youre doing clutch dumps, slicks etc. Normal spiried driving it will be just fine.
Most guys who break a lot of parts drive like idiots.
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Old 05-16-2019, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette View Post
Its not going to break unless youre doing clutch dumps, slicks etc. Normal spiried driving it will be just fine.
Most guys who break a lot of parts drive like idiots.
It's an automatic, so, no worries about clutch dumps. A shame really. I had a lot of fun with those on my father's '72 GMC pickup. Fortunately he never knew. It was though a testament to the engine and tranny that they managed to survive what my brother and I did to them.
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Old 05-16-2019, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by vince vette 2 View Post
As long as the blast isn't my aluminum Dana 44 coming apart
So far so good on my Dana 44 and I have a Blueprint 383 with TKO600 manual. Haven't taken it to the drag strip though...
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Old 05-16-2019, 01:38 PM
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If you are thinking two years ahead, it gives you plenty of time to do the research to build your own engine or work with a good speed/machine shop to build an engine for you to your specs.
After my bad experience with a well know create motor builder, I'll never purchase another.
I've been researching and collecting parts and components for my 496 build for over two years.
It's been fun and I've actually learned a lot.
I have everything sitting on the shelf in my garage and won't use a single part off my original engine.
The cost is over what a create motor would cost, but I've collected nothing but the best quality parts that will hold up under twice the torque and horsepower the engine will actually make.
You never know what you get in a create motor, the attention to detail, and the experience of the person who machined the parts or the person who assembled it.
Bubba has a full time day job somewhere.
LJ's Speed and Machine in Napa, CA has been helping me.
They have been a family run business for over 50 years and build anything from antique John Deere's to supercharged alcohol monsters and ship them all over the world.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Greg

Last edited by OldCarBum; 05-16-2019 at 01:45 PM.
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Old 05-16-2019, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by jim-81 View Post
So far so good on my Dana 44 and I have a Blueprint 383 with TKO600 manual. Haven't taken it to the drag strip though...
I've mentioned in some other posts, I think with the D 44's it's just the luck of the draw on the bearing cap quality. I did a post on CT X-ray analysis of one of mine (driver's side). Here's one of the images.



Lot's of voids and areas where the powdered metal didn't melt. Here's the link to the full post https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-analysis.html

I figure if one of these voids or defects sits in a weak zone, then ka-bang. If not, 600 hp without trouble.
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Old 05-16-2019, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by jim-81 View Post
So far so good on my Dana 44 and I have a Blueprint 383 with TKO600 manual. Haven't taken it to the drag strip though...
Jim, I was just re-reading the old post and see you read it when originally posted. Sorry to be redundant.
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Old 05-16-2019, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by OldCarBum View Post
If you are thinking two years ahead, it gives you plenty of time to do the research to build your own engine or work with a good speed/machine shop to build an engine for you to your specs.
After my bad experience with a well know create motor builder, I'll never purchase another.
Greg
I can't disagree with anything in your post, especially that buying the parts individually will cost more.Really it's just a time issue for me. Maybe if once I get if off the kwik-lift in a couple weeks and drive it and find the 90k engine is running well and all the sounds from the rear end are gone I'll feel a little more secure driving it as is while I explore some more options.

Last edited by vince vette 2; 05-16-2019 at 02:37 PM.
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Old 05-16-2019, 04:26 PM
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I drive my 73 with 108,000 miles on it.
I don't trust it 100% so I baby it along at 65 on the highway and slow starts off the line.
I'm still collecting parts for my body off resto/mod and as long as I get all my home remodeling projects completed this year I will start tearing mine down this coming winter.
Take your time and get what you want.
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Old 05-16-2019, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by vince vette 2 View Post
I can't disagree with anything in your post, especially that buying the parts individually will cost more.Really it's just a time issue for me. Maybe if once I get if off the kwik-lift in a couple weeks and drive it and find the 90k engine is running well and all the sounds from the rear end are gone I'll feel a little more secure driving it as is while I explore some more options.
You sound like me. Got to get it off the lift so Iíll leave it alone. Always finding stuff
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Old 05-16-2019, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by vince vette 2 View Post
As long as the blast isn't my aluminum Dana 44 coming apart
That was my fear too so I had Mike Dyer take care of that worry for me. Billet bearing cap on the stressed side of the carrier plus all rebuilt to handle whatever I would throw at it in the future.

Last edited by MattoonVette; 05-16-2019 at 08:43 PM.
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Old 05-16-2019, 08:44 PM
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If all else fails this is a good look too.. no clearance worries.

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