Strut rod bushing question
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Cruising
Joined: Feb 2019
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Strut rod bushing question
The inboard strut rod bushings on my 71' are almost all deteriorated but the outboard by the shocks are just fine. I want to replace just the two inboard ones. When I raise the car up with "Quick Jack Lift" the strut is twisted at the collar and it looks like with the new bushing installed the bolt won't be able to go through. Do I need to jack the tires up to get every thing to line up? What is the correct procedure? Any advise would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim
Thanks,
Jim
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: North of Toronto - Ontario
As the wheel drops, it also comes forward somewhat and tips as well (controlled by the strut and the half-shafts, pivot at the front of the trailing arm and all that) so the angle of the strut is weird with the wheel all the way down
It's best when it's pretty much straight (half-shaft horizontal) so you may find it easier to install the bolt that way but be careful jacking the wheel (especially one) while the frame is on the quickjack, you're affecting the loading and it could easily become unbalanced
M
It's best when it's pretty much straight (half-shaft horizontal) so you may find it easier to install the bolt that way but be careful jacking the wheel (especially one) while the frame is on the quickjack, you're affecting the loading and it could easily become unbalanced
M
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Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Virginia
While the inboard bushings will fall out, the outer are likely toast as well.
I use a Qwik-Lift (full-size ramp), and heim-jointed strut rods, so life is a bit easier, but I'd think that using your Quick-Jack to get the wheels onto ramps/stands such that the car is elevated, but still on its wheels, might be a safer option worth considering.
I use a Qwik-Lift (full-size ramp), and heim-jointed strut rods, so life is a bit easier, but I'd think that using your Quick-Jack to get the wheels onto ramps/stands such that the car is elevated, but still on its wheels, might be a safer option worth considering.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Western NY
That falls into the category of, "while you're in there".....in other words, since you're going through the hassle of replacing one bushing, and while removing the shock mount bracket will be a hassle, why not replace both bushings and be done for the rest of your and/or your car's life?
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Virginia
That falls into the category of, "while you're in there".....in other words, since you're going through the hassle of replacing one bushing, and while removing the shock mount bracket will be a hassle, why not replace both bushings and be done for the rest of your and/or your car's life?
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Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Western NY
I agree, but I would think it would be quite a struggle to hang on to the strut rod, in order to press out the bushing, while one end is still hanging from the car.
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 33
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From: California
While the inboard bushings will fall out, the outer are likely toast as well.
I use a Qwik-Lift (full-size ramp), and heim-jointed strut rods, so life is a bit easier, but I'd think that using your Quick-Jack to get the wheels onto ramps/stands such that the car is elevated, but still on its wheels, might be a safer option worth considering.
I use a Qwik-Lift (full-size ramp), and heim-jointed strut rods, so life is a bit easier, but I'd think that using your Quick-Jack to get the wheels onto ramps/stands such that the car is elevated, but still on its wheels, might be a safer option worth considering.
Just did this job last week on my 71 and installed the adjustable strut rods available from our vendors. Although they are poly and not Heim jointed, they went in easy in about an hour including cleaning a few things up underneath. Did both sides and perfect camber. Toe moves with camber so once the camber was correct, the toe setting was OK. too.
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2019
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From: California
Hi Greg,
You are correct that toe is adjustable with the shims mentioned, however, toe settings will change with camber changes.
A general rule of thumb is toe will move positive about half a degree (.5) with every 2 degrees of negative camber change. The reverse happens too and excessive toe will also affect camber angles. When I went through alignment training with Hunter Engineering some years ago, they told us toe is always adjusted last but if toe is WAY off to adjust it first as it will bring camber angles closer to spec possibly preventing some or any camber adjustments. Toe settings should always be checked and adjusted after any alignment adjustments are made.
You are correct that toe is adjustable with the shims mentioned, however, toe settings will change with camber changes.
A general rule of thumb is toe will move positive about half a degree (.5) with every 2 degrees of negative camber change. The reverse happens too and excessive toe will also affect camber angles. When I went through alignment training with Hunter Engineering some years ago, they told us toe is always adjusted last but if toe is WAY off to adjust it first as it will bring camber angles closer to spec possibly preventing some or any camber adjustments. Toe settings should always be checked and adjusted after any alignment adjustments are made.
Last edited by Double-O; May 31, 2019 at 04:22 PM.
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2019
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From: pekin,il
alignment
1973 sb convertible.replaced all front end bushings,ball joints,etc.took car to alignment shop,they said could not align as rear wheel bearings had slop.brought home and replaced rear wheel bearings and strut rod bushings.not trailing arm bushings{long story}. mechanic set bearings to .003 clearance{dry}.took back to align shop,said bearings still loose.brought home ,put on lift,disconnected half shafts,put dial indicator on spindle yoke,grabbed wheel at 12 and 6 position and have .002 play.is this common,do I need different align shop,or reshim bearings?thanks for any feedback.new to forum.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Western NY
1973 sb convertible.replaced all front end bushings,ball joints,etc.took car to alignment shop,they said could not align as rear wheel bearings had slop.brought home and replaced rear wheel bearings and strut rod bushings.not trailing arm bushings{long story}. mechanic set bearings to .003 clearance{dry}.took back to align shop,said bearings still loose.brought home ,put on lift,disconnected half shafts,put dial indicator on spindle yoke,grabbed wheel at 12 and 6 position and have .002 play.is this common,do I need different align shop,or reshim bearings?thanks for any feedback.new to forum.
I call, "BS", they simply don't know how to do a rear wheel alignment on a C-2 or C-3 Corvette (rear ends are the same). Find another shop, ASAP.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Western NY
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 47
Likes: 25
From: pekin,il
thank you all for the responses.thought about the diff slop,but I unbolted half shafts and moved them out of way and used dial indicator,mounted on trailing arm,on spindle flange where bolts were.am going to contact another alignment shop which has experience with classic corvettes.wish I would have heard about them two months ago.