Darn Brakes Again
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 3,116
Likes: 598
1. when you replace a caliper I also press in the brake pads and shim/wedge between the brake pad and rotor to force the caliper piston in as far as it can go. Then fill the caliper and bleed.
Most of the air gets trapped in the caliper piston bores. The only way to completely bleed this out is force the caliper piston in, Shim/Wedge them in place or use a vise grip, then apply pressure at the MC and bleed.
You can do this at any time. You will be surprised how much air can be left in the piston bores. If you bleed the calipers off the brackets and stand straight up you get the same results, but this is a lot of extra time to complete.
So when I bleed calipers I always press the caliper piston in and shim/wedge/vise grip.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 875
Likes: 289
From: LaFayette Georgia
C3 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
St. Jude Donor '19
Test drove her this morning and the brakes are great.
This is the firmest brake pedal that this car has had in the six years that I've owned it.
The problem was definitely too much air in the system.
I contribute the good pedal to the following...
1. A thorough bench bleed of the master cylinder in a level, tilted forward, and a tilted rear position.
2. A thorough bleeding of the system following the correct bleeding procedure. The system had a moderate amount of air in it. Particularly in the Wilwood right front caliper.
3.Lifting the rear of the car as cagatzman showed in a previous post, and forcing air out of the rear of the master cylinder reservoir. I actually didn't expect to get anymore air bubbles after the mc bench bleed. To my surprise I got two more air bubbles out of the back reservoir.
4. Patience. Some of the evacuated calipers took quite a bit of time to get ALL of the air out.
Thank you all for following the seemingly endless saga.
Craig
This is the firmest brake pedal that this car has had in the six years that I've owned it.
The problem was definitely too much air in the system.
I contribute the good pedal to the following...
1. A thorough bench bleed of the master cylinder in a level, tilted forward, and a tilted rear position.
2. A thorough bleeding of the system following the correct bleeding procedure. The system had a moderate amount of air in it. Particularly in the Wilwood right front caliper.
3.Lifting the rear of the car as cagatzman showed in a previous post, and forcing air out of the rear of the master cylinder reservoir. I actually didn't expect to get anymore air bubbles after the mc bench bleed. To my surprise I got two more air bubbles out of the back reservoir.
4. Patience. Some of the evacuated calipers took quite a bit of time to get ALL of the air out.
Thank you all for following the seemingly endless saga.
Craig
Eddy
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,339
Likes: 546
From: Central Texas
Originally Posted by cagotzmann
There is also 1 more thing that most don't do, but I have always done.
1. when you replace a caliper I also press in the brake pads and shim/wedge between the brake pad and rotor to force the caliper piston in as far as it can go. Then fill the caliper and bleed.
Most of the air gets trapped in the caliper piston bores. The only way to completely bleed this out is force the caliper piston in, Shim/Wedge them in place or use a vise grip, then apply pressure at the MC and bleed.
You can do this at any time. You will be surprised how much air can be left in the piston bores. If you bleed the calipers off the brackets and stand straight up you get the same results, but this is a lot of extra time to complete.
So when I bleed calipers I always press the caliper piston in and shim/wedge/vise grip.
1. when you replace a caliper I also press in the brake pads and shim/wedge between the brake pad and rotor to force the caliper piston in as far as it can go. Then fill the caliper and bleed.
Most of the air gets trapped in the caliper piston bores. The only way to completely bleed this out is force the caliper piston in, Shim/Wedge them in place or use a vise grip, then apply pressure at the MC and bleed.
You can do this at any time. You will be surprised how much air can be left in the piston bores. If you bleed the calipers off the brackets and stand straight up you get the same results, but this is a lot of extra time to complete.
So when I bleed calipers I always press the caliper piston in and shim/wedge/vise grip.
Your tips have helped me tremendously!
Craig
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,339
Likes: 546
From: Central Texas
Purchased a New Tool
After this last brake fiasco I decided to purchase this tool to spread the pads.
Has anybody used or is using one of these?
Does it do the intended job well?
Craig
Has anybody used or is using one of these?
Does it do the intended job well?
Craig
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Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,339
Likes: 546
From: Central Texas
There is also 1 more thing that most don't do, but I have always done.
1. when you replace a caliper I also press in the brake pads and shim/wedge between the brake pad and rotor to force the caliper piston in as far as it can go. Then fill the caliper and bleed.
Most of the air gets trapped in the caliper piston bores. The only way to completely bleed this out is force the caliper piston in, Shim/Wedge them in place or use a vise grip, then apply pressure at the MC and bleed.
You can do this at any time. You will be surprised how much air can be left in the piston bores. If you bleed the calipers off the brackets and stand straight up you get the same results, but this is a lot of extra time to complete.
So when I bleed calipers I always press the caliper piston in and shim/wedge/vise grip.
1. when you replace a caliper I also press in the brake pads and shim/wedge between the brake pad and rotor to force the caliper piston in as far as it can go. Then fill the caliper and bleed.
Most of the air gets trapped in the caliper piston bores. The only way to completely bleed this out is force the caliper piston in, Shim/Wedge them in place or use a vise grip, then apply pressure at the MC and bleed.
You can do this at any time. You will be surprised how much air can be left in the piston bores. If you bleed the calipers off the brackets and stand straight up you get the same results, but this is a lot of extra time to complete.
So when I bleed calipers I always press the caliper piston in and shim/wedge/vise grip.
I'm going to use the new tool that I purchased (post #48) to do this in future.
Craig
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 3,116
Likes: 598
After this last brake fiasco I decided to purchase this tool to spread the pads.
https://www.amazon.com/Lang-Tools-27...omotive&sr=1-1
Has anybody used or is using one of these?
Does it do the intended job well?
Craig
https://www.amazon.com/Lang-Tools-27...omotive&sr=1-1
Has anybody used or is using one of these?
Does it do the intended job well?
Craig
plastic putty knife.
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/a-r...set/1000727514
Usually use 2 on new pads on each side of the center pin to keep the pads between the rotor and the pads.
To spread the pads I just use a vise grip at the center pin location to move the pads in.
Last edited by cagotzmann; Jun 12, 2019 at 10:44 AM.