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I need eventually to tackle my battery drain problem that has existed on my '79 since the day I purchased it. I installed the shutoff valve that I use constantly when the car will sit for more than a few days. For a non-mechanic like myself, what is a simple way to identify what accessory is the culprit when the car sits that drains the battery down. In Cold weather below 40 degrees or so it will drian in a matter of days. When it's 70 degrees or above it can easily last over a week and still start. By the way, the battery has been replaced and checks out as good.
unhook the negative lead on your battery.clip a test light on the the negetive CABLE(make shure it is disconected from the battery)touch the other end of the test light to the positive post on your battery.if the test light lights up you have a draw.as you are doing this have someone else remove and replace each fuse on your fuse panel one at time.when the fuse is removed that makes the test light turn off,that is your circuit with the draw.now you can trace that circuit for the problem.hope this made sense to you.
Disconnect the ground and attach a test light to the ground cable and the post. It you have a draw the light will come on.. Then remove the fuses (one by one) and watch the light. When the light goes out that is the circut that the draw is on.. Look for the clock.. That tends to be the culprit.. Hope this helps!!
Re: Battery Drain... need suggestions (SprintCarDriver)
Most cars will have some continous draw due to clocks etc.. and now computers.
The light method is a good place to start, but I would use a DMM Digital Multimeter instead of a light.
Position the DMM at the battery negative connection to the negative wire disconnected and put the DMM on 10Amp DC current switch setting/wire set-up and connect it between these 2 points. You may get a reading which could be in the few hundread milliamps, which is probably excessive current flow. You probably want to see something closer to 50ma or even less. If you do not get a reading with this, then set it up on the 2 Amp scale setting, which will me more accurate. 1000milliamp = 1Amp
If your problem is occuring with the key on the off position, then leave it there.
Start disconnecting fuses to see if this reading drops considerably. Use this to isolate down to your area. The DMM is just a more accurate tool than the light, but the method is the same. Like all the others said, good luck.
Another place to look is your alternator. There could be a internal problem there causing this too.
Tom
You can get a DMM at any tool store and they range from some cheapies for $20 to pretty expensive $100s +
This is usually a hard problem to isolate, even if you get it down to a fuse circuit which is causing this. Ive done this on a few different vehicles and due to auto wiring diagrams not being so great, its a real PITA, even with my electronics background.
The GM service manuals are probably the best wiring guides that I have seen and even have electrical troubleshooting help set-up. Using these will get you a lot closer than a Chiltons or Haynes manual will.
On my '81, I had that problem for long time, damnear drove me nuts. Finally discovered it was the "courtesy lamp time delay module". :rolleyes:
You know, that gizmo that makes the interior lights stay on for 30 or 40 seconds after you close the door. The blasted thing would turn my lights on and off at random all the time, sometimes leaving them on for hours at night. Solved the problem by disconnecting it; after a year or so (my wife complained about no interior lights) I bought a new module. About $45 from Zip.
The lights on your '79 work the same way, I think. The module on your car should be behind the glove box, on the right side. It's maybe 3"x2"x1/2" or so. Mine was orange plastic, and was somewhat scorched and melted.
I think the advice given by the other guys is good, and I'd check that first. But if it's the timer module, that won't show up in the test they suggested, because it only sucks the battery dry when you're not looking! :(
On my '81, I had that problem for long time, damnear drove me nuts. Finally discovered it was the "courtesy lamp time delay module". :rolleyes:
You know, that gizmo that makes the interior lights stay on for 30 or 40 seconds after you close the door. The blasted thing would turn my lights on and off at random all the time, sometimes leaving them on for hours at night. Solved the problem by disconnecting it; after a year or so (my wife complained about no interior lights) I bought a new module. About $45 from Zip.
The lights on your '79 work the same way, I think. The module on your car should be behind the glove box, on the right side. It's maybe 3"x2"x1/2" or so. Mine was orange plastic, and was somewhat scorched and melted.
I think the advice given by the other guys is good, and I'd check that first. But if it's the timer module, that won't show up in the test they suggested, because it only sucks the battery dry when you're not looking! :(
[Modified by Gator81, 4:32 PM 11/6/2002]
Pay close attention to what Gator just said, for this is the only thing I have ever seen mysteriously drain a battery.
yup,,,,,,,,same thing on my 77....that dadburned curtsy lite thingy......after messing with the door switches for hours to make sure they where ok,that things was doing it..
Re: Battery Drain... need suggestions (Peter Bilella)
The module on your car should be behind the glove box, on the right side. It's maybe 3"x2"x1/2" or so. Mine was orange plastic, and was somewhat scorched and melted.
Easiest way to get to it is to remove the glove box "liner"; it's just held in by a few small screws. No need to remove the glove box door or anything else.
I believe this module was introduced into the wiring harness with the '78 model. Early '78's have the module on the driver's side, under the dash, by the steering column. Late '78's, through '82's, have it behind the glove box, on the right. :seeya
i had this problem with mine. It turned out to be the light in the storage compartment behind the seat. The door was warped just enough to release the plunger and leave the light on. It took a few days to drain and it drove me nuts.
i had this problem with mine. It turned out to be the light in the storage compartment behind the seat. The door was warped just enough to release the plunger and leave the light on. It took a few days to drain and it drove me nuts.
Mine too. But my door wasn't warped. I had just inadvertently left the door unlatched, not realizing there was a light in there. Duh!