new replacement pump from advanceauto..clear plastic fuel filter...floats are dead on...initial timing is at idle with dist. vaccum disabled...total timing set at 2500 -3000 rpm per chevorlet specs...starts perfect...plugs look perfect...only issue with new holley now is a bog off line...gonna upsize pump nozzle to help with that...carb runs great rest of the way....great throttle response

 

I was thinking the side of the intake covering the lifter valley. Which, by the way I just discovered! I definitely had leaks on both intake gaskets, seems that the mechanic who did a rocker adjustment for me never torqued down the intake bolts much past finger tight

Letting the RTV cure and later today I guess we'll see if that changes my performance issue at all

 

Guys...In Aerospace we had a 'convention' for describing positions on Jet engines....works perfectly for cars.

ALF {aft looking forward)
FLA {forward looking aft}

'sworks!

Unkahal

 

Your welcome.

 

Hal, the orientation for automobiles has always been from the driver's seat position. Passenger side is the right side whether your looking from the front of the car or rear of the car. So there is only one right side of the engine and only one left side. That's the way it is, take it or leave it.

 

A few notes....

First off, ALL cars are gonna be down on power in 95-100* ambient temps...very noticeable...Probably a good 15-20hp or more off from cool winter air... Usually about 2 tenths and 2-3 mph difference at the track, depending on the car and its tune up. This is especially true in carb'd cars that usually run great in winter because of the carb jetting, then slow down in summer due to excessively rich mixture.

That said..

If you are having a fuel starvation issue, the car will likely roll over and die in upper rpms, especially in 2nd/3rd gear. Sure it will be leaning out a lot before it gets to the "roll over" stage but... You need to temporarily plumb in a fuel pressure gauge at the fuel line at the carb and test this at wide open. I recently fought this on a 355 in my Dad's nova. Ended up removing the stock replacement fuel pump, which was dropping from 7 psi at idle, to 2 psi at WOT. Went with an 80 gph Summit mechanical, non return style. Now it starts at 7 psi and drops to about 5 psi at WOT. Still didn't fix my "roll over problem. Which leads me to my next comment.

If your aftermarket distributor has a built in rev limiter, make sure you test the adjustment, don't rely on its "factory preset at 5500" or whatever.... Our Nova was rolling over at 4800, and it wasn't a soft cut like a usual rev limiter...it was a hard cut, like it ran out of fuel. Turns out my "5500 rev limiter" was actually coming in at 4800. Took me weeks to figure that one out. However, that's not a hot/cold variance problem.

Once you've verified your secondaries are opening, your timing is correct and your measured fuel pressure is stable then start digging deeper.

You didn't mention if you have stock exhaust manifolds with the heat riser in the pipe but, if you do, you need to check and make sure its opening when hot.

There is a lot of stuff the problem can be, but you need to verify you HAVE a problem first, and not just the normal reduction of power due to hot ambient conditions, heat soak, excessively rich mixture in the carb from winter air jetting etc...

 

heat shield under the carb (sheetmetal type)?
Try adjusting your carb at running temps, may need to be leaned/richened a tad..
This is one reason I dont bother putting AC in it, when its super hot out the car feels like it lost a ton anyways.

On fuel pressure my mech carter uses 8 psi with no return no issues. Its keeping everything cool.we get spoiled by EFI where the sotp loss seems to be much less.

 

i'm pretty sure the hot ambient heat outside is not causing my engine to shake so bad after warming up that it looks like it's about to break the motor mounts!!!