Recommend an electric fuel pump
The previous owner installed a bronze tipped fuel pump rod which according to the builder (blueprint) is not good and may have eaten some of the cam lobe so..... electric fuel pump is cheaper than a cam swap. Does anyone have a good recommendation? I'm leaning toward this guy: . I Did some research here and elsewhere and there seems to be a bunch of issues with the Holley red/blue pumps and others. The Carter seems to be the best of the bunch. Any thoughts?








I also ran the fuel line into a bucket to make sure it wasn't the gauge and it would pump, stop, pump, stop.
I switched to an Aeromotive Electric pump with an Aeromotive regulator.
This one...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-11203
Craig
Now for the harder part. Install a fuel pump relay to power the thing, and before you drive it anywhere, make damn sure that when the engine stops turning, the fuel pump stops running. The easiest way to accomplish that is to put 12v power to the coil of the relay and ground it through an oil pressure switch (like for an "idiot light"). Do not skip the relay. I know a guy who spent a year in the hospital and nearly died when he got in an accident that was serious enough to break a fuel line from the electric pump to the engine and the pump emptied his 20 gallon fuel tank on his headers. You don't want to do that to yourself (or your family and friends).
Since you're probably carbureted, you don't need to worry (much) about priming the pump. There should be enough fuel in the bowls of the carb to get the thing running and get oil pressure before it "runs out of gas."
Now for the harder part. Install a fuel pump relay to power the thing, and before you drive it anywhere, make damn sure that when the engine stops turning, the fuel pump stops running. The easiest way to accomplish that is to put 12v power to the coil of the relay and ground it through an oil pressure switch (like for an "idiot light"). Do not skip the relay. I know a guy who spent a year in the hospital and nearly died when he got in an accident that was serious enough to break a fuel line from the electric pump to the engine and the pump emptied his 20 gallon fuel tank on his headers. You don't want to do that to yourself (or your family and friends).
Since you're probably carbureted, you don't need to worry (much) about priming the pump. There should be enough fuel in the bowls of the carb to get the thing running and get oil pressure before it "runs out of gas."
Use one of these or a Holley Hobbs switch which turns off the pump in an event of a loss in oil pressure.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-80160/overview/
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Place the engine on number 1 TDC, take a measurement from the end of the push rod to any reference point. This should be the low point on the camshaft lobe.
Turn the engine one complete revolution and take a second measurement to the same reference point. This should be the high point on the camshaft lobe.
Now for the harder part. Install a fuel pump relay to power the thing, and before you drive it anywhere, make damn sure that when the engine stops turning, the fuel pump stops running. The easiest way to accomplish that is to put 12v power to the coil of the relay and ground it through an oil pressure switch (like for an "idiot light"). Do not skip the relay. I know a guy who spent a year in the hospital and nearly died when he got in an accident that was serious enough to break a fuel line from the electric pump to the engine and the pump emptied his 20 gallon fuel tank on his headers. You don't want to do that to yourself (or your family and friends).
Since you're probably carbureted, you don't need to worry (much) about priming the pump. There should be enough fuel in the bowls of the carb to get the thing running and get oil pressure before it "runs out of gas."
Seem's to have all the wiring that's needed I think except maybe the kill switch when the engine stops running. I know very little about automotive wiring so i want this to be as easy as humanly possible.
Place the engine on number 1 TDC, take a measurement from the end of the push rod to any reference point. This should be the low point on the camshaft lobe.
Turn the engine one complete revolution and take a second measurement to the same reference point. This should be the high point on the camshaft lobe.
I've come to this conclusion on the advice of the builder (blueprint) and the fact that i've check everything several times and i'm pretty much out of options at this point. Its not the tank, its not the lines, its not the pump, its not the rod and it ran the week before. It would stumble occasionally which i attributed to the carb mostly because well.... carbs. Now it seems like that was the beginning of the end of the lobe. I also changed the oil and there was a bit of material on the plug (magnetic) which may have been the remains of the lobe.
The previous owner installed a bronze tipped fuel pump rod which according to the builder (blueprint) is not good and may have eaten some of the cam lobe so..... electric fuel pump is cheaper than a cam swap.
I have been both places, swapping out the cam on my old motor and installing an electric pump on the new motor. There are a lot of issues with and electric pump that need to be addressed. You can do it cheap and noisy or do it right.
You owe it to yourself to verify the situation as it seems you've eliminated most of the other possibilities. Based on what I know and my experience, I would swap out the cam. If you are looking for a performance gain as well, consider this an opportunity.
Last edited by ignatz; Jul 11, 2019 at 11:58 AM.
I have been both places, swapping out the cam on my old motor and installing an electric pump on the new motor. There are a lot of issues with and electric pump that need to be addressed. You can do it cheap and noisy or do it right.
You owe it to yourself to verify the situation as it seems you've eliminated most of the other possibilities. Based on what I know and my experience, I would swap out the cam. If you are looking for a performance gain as well, consider this an opportunity.
I thought the bronze was softer too so maybe the tech i spoke w/ misspoke. I REALLY don't want to do a cam swap to be perfectly honest. I don't need more performance and i'd rather not go into that much labor. My thought process here is to spend $200 on the electric pump and run that. If the cam flattens itself in 10k-15k i'll replace it then or maybe go LS, we'll see.
The previous owner installed a bronze tipped fuel pump rod which according to the builder (blueprint) is not good and may have eaten some of the cam lobe so..... electric fuel pump is cheaper than a cam swap. Does anyone have a good recommendation? I'm leaning toward this guy: https://www.amazon.com/Carter-P4070-.../dp/B000CIQ5DG. I Did some research here and elsewhere and there seems to be a bunch of issues with the Holley red/blue pumps and others. The Carter seems to be the best of the bunch. Any thoughts?
http://www.revolutionelectronics.com/Fuel_Pump.html
Last edited by Gunfighter13; Jul 11, 2019 at 12:23 PM.
http://www.revolutionelectronics.com/Fuel_Pump.html
This looks pretty neat. Would i just need the pump and no additional wiring other than this? Looks inclusive from my limited knowledge.
Seem's to have all the wiring that's needed I think except maybe the kill switch when the engine stops running. I know very little about automotive wiring so i want this to be as easy as humanly possible.
As shown in the directions, that's a dangerous setup that could feed a fire in an accident. You want to wire it where the pump stops running when the engine stops turning.
The only change I'd make is that I'd run the gray wire from the relay to the oil pressure warning switch. Use AC-Delco G1807 for the switch. Your engine might already have that switch installed for the oil pressure warning light. If it does, just splice the gray wire from the fuel pump relay to the wire that already runs to that switch. That switch will then turn on the warning light and turn off the fuel pump when the oil pressure is below 2psi. It will take 6psi of oil pressure to turn that switch on (which should start the pump soon after you start cranking the starter).
You can use a different switch for the oil pressure switch, but you need one that closes (grounds, turns "on") when the pressure exceeds a reasonable threshhold and opens (ungrounds, turns "off") when there is no oil pressure.
Last edited by C6_Racer_X; Jul 11, 2019 at 01:46 PM.
Mike
Last edited by v2racing; Jul 12, 2019 at 02:42 PM.
He responded and pointed me to some listing on EBAY.














