1980 Corvette A/C Question
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 175
Likes: 3
From: Palmyra NY
1980 Corvette A/C Question
Hello everyone! I have owned my 1980 Corvette for about five years now. Strange enough to say, I never used the A/C in the car. I am not sure if the woman I bought it from used it either. If it's hot, I don't drive it. I want to try the A/C. I'm sure it don't blow cold anymore but I want to see. My question is, is there anything I should check and/or inspect before flipping the switch? I'm nervous something is going to go wrong.
Thanks again!
Don
Thanks again!
Don
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,850
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I'd put the air on and give it a try. If the system has pressure you'll hear the clutch engage on the front of the compressor. If the system doesn't then the clutch will not engage... you'll hear a click when you do this. There is nothing to hurt by dong this in my opinion. If there isn't enough pressure and you want to test the compressor you can jumper the pressure switch to see if the clutch engages.
Willcox
Willcox
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,365
Likes: 428
From: Cape Girardeau Missouri
Do be ready to turn it off very quickly if you hear squealing or the idle drops drastically--both these can mean a locked rotor. A locked rotor will ruin the belt very quickly.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 226
From: PA
Good luck. I've had my 1980 since new. Spent the first 2 years with it in TX. Then moved back to NY for a year in Stafford, where I grew up. It's next to Batavia, so the same climate as Palmyra (that's a NY plate on the car in my avatar and the yellow color dates it). Then moved to PA near Harrisburg. The A/C started leaking by the time the car was 4 years old. I suspect that is typical. I drove the car regularly until about 1986. After that it was just for fun until about 2004. Basically from '86 to '04 the A/C was empty and thus unused - hey windows down, tops off - we don't need no stinkin' A/C. Growing up in the 60's in western NY, none of our family cars had A/C until my mother bought a new LeSabre in '74.
Despite the lack of A/C and many years of non use, the compressor is not seized. So regardless of the Freon status, there's a good chance it's functional. But given the 5 years you've had, it's unlikely to have a Freon charge unless it was rebuilt somewhere along the way. And if rebuilt a question would be if it was updated to run on the new Freon.
Despite the lack of A/C and many years of non use, the compressor is not seized. So regardless of the Freon status, there's a good chance it's functional. But given the 5 years you've had, it's unlikely to have a Freon charge unless it was rebuilt somewhere along the way. And if rebuilt a question would be if it was updated to run on the new Freon.
Last edited by vince vette 2; Jul 24, 2019 at 09:44 AM.
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Drifting
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 226
From: PA
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 7,632
Likes: 2,460
From: Indiana
you will pay anywhere from 18 to 40 bucks for a 14 ounce can..takes three cans min if empty. See specs but should hold 3 pounds r12.
Try it see if compressor comes on..if not AND if you push schrader valve does anything come out? If so i would get gauges ( get them anyway) see what pressure is in and try a can ( assuming r12 still if you know history)
if empty...consider using shop air pressurize check for leaks holding pressure. If it does check orifice for metal or other issues...if ok
no leaks change orifice, accumulator..pull vacuum add r12? Or consider flushing, remove and manually empty compressor oil and convert oil and go r134a
again make sure belt is adjusted ok..squalling compressor may be loose belt not necessarily failing compressor...
good luck, report back
Last edited by interpon; Jul 24, 2019 at 04:23 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,365
Likes: 428
From: Cape Girardeau Missouri
Yes, you can get R-12. Expensive but not ridiculously so. Full system charge is three pounds.
If it's not working you MUST find the problem(s) before throwing in some refrigerant! In the even that the compressor is seized and you intend to keep the R-12 system buy the DELCO "professional" unit only! Ask me how I know... The accumulator which is always suggested to be replace in an old system that has stopped working is hideous to replace--utterly requiring a 1 1/8" crow's foot wrench (very hard to find and expensive) unimaginable (to me) without a lift.
The above said you're still better off with the R-12 system as long as the condenser ahead of the radiator does not leak because an "update" to a more modern compressor and/or refrigerant requires that the condenser be replaced for the system operate properly. You'll also loose the highly refrigerated air you get from the original R-12 system.
If it's not working you MUST find the problem(s) before throwing in some refrigerant! In the even that the compressor is seized and you intend to keep the R-12 system buy the DELCO "professional" unit only! Ask me how I know... The accumulator which is always suggested to be replace in an old system that has stopped working is hideous to replace--utterly requiring a 1 1/8" crow's foot wrench (very hard to find and expensive) unimaginable (to me) without a lift.
The above said you're still better off with the R-12 system as long as the condenser ahead of the radiator does not leak because an "update" to a more modern compressor and/or refrigerant requires that the condenser be replaced for the system operate properly. You'll also loose the highly refrigerated air you get from the original R-12 system.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 7,632
Likes: 2,460
From: Indiana
Yes, you can get R-12. Expensive but not ridiculously so. Full system charge is three pounds.
If it's not working you MUST find the problem(s) before throwing in some refrigerant! In the even that the compressor is seized and you intend to keep the R-12 system buy the DELCO "professional" unit only! Ask me how I know... The accumulator which is always suggested to be replace in an old system that has stopped working is hideous to replace--utterly requiring a 1 1/8" crow's foot wrench (very hard to find and expensive) unimaginable (to me) without a lift.
The above said you're still better off with the R-12 system as long as the condenser ahead of the radiator does not leak because an "update" to a more modern compressor and/or refrigerant requires that the condenser be replaced for the system operate properly. You'll also loose the highly refrigerated air you get from the original R-12 system.
If it's not working you MUST find the problem(s) before throwing in some refrigerant! In the even that the compressor is seized and you intend to keep the R-12 system buy the DELCO "professional" unit only! Ask me how I know... The accumulator which is always suggested to be replace in an old system that has stopped working is hideous to replace--utterly requiring a 1 1/8" crow's foot wrench (very hard to find and expensive) unimaginable (to me) without a lift.
The above said you're still better off with the R-12 system as long as the condenser ahead of the radiator does not leak because an "update" to a more modern compressor and/or refrigerant requires that the condenser be replaced for the system operate properly. You'll also loose the highly refrigerated air you get from the original R-12 system.
new one is two piece and may need heat bend
get the new channel lock wideazz short wrench
it works
https://www.menards.com/main/tools/h...363517&ipos=15
my compressor working ok this week..said professional on the box lifetime warranty if proof of getting orifice and accumulator
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TEM2...put=compressor
Last edited by interpon; Jul 24, 2019 at 06:15 PM.