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Have 69 all original 300hp automatic with factory air very original Ncrs type car
2 questions
1. What is best oil pan gasket to use to prevent leaks. Paid a shop to replace rear seal and oil pan gasket and they did a horrible job . I will look to redo it myself this weekend. Should I use a one piece gasket ?
2. The car is in south florida and in the heat of the afternoon it runs too hot with ac on ( just when you need it ) especially when extended idling occurs . I don’t want to radically change it , don’t want to put modern ac compressor or modern radiator if I can help it. Was wondering if anyone knows if the gm shroud extender would substantially help and if I should switch to a seven blade flex fan maybe ? And if so any recommendations for something sort of original looking and a direct fit ?
FelPro makes a very nice, one piece, with steel grommets in place (to prevent over tightening), oil pan gasket. I do know that GM used two different thicknesses of "end seals" for the oil pan, based on model years. I don't know however, what the "break point" was, with respect to the model years. I also am unsure if FelPro offers this particular pan gasket with both of the end seal thicknesses, or just the later years. I used this particular gasket on a 90s SBC, with good results.
I have the same engine, original fan and factory ac and runs cool all the time. I bet your radiator just needs to have 50 years of sludge boiled out of it by a radiator shop! Also, upon getting the timing right, as per Lars instruction, I found the car to run cooler (and quicker, initial advance at 12 degrees.)
Have 69 all original 300hp automatic with factory air very original Ncrs type car
2 questions
1. What is best oil pan gasket to use to prevent leaks. Paid a shop to replace rear seal and oil pan gasket and they did a horrible job . I will look to redo it myself this weekend. Should I use a one piece gasket ?
2. The car is in south florida and in the heat of the afternoon it runs too hot with ac on ( just when you need it ) especially when extended idling occurs . I don’t want to radically change it , don’t want to put modern ac compressor or modern radiator if I can help it. Was wondering if anyone knows if the gm shroud extender would substantially help and if I should switch to a seven blade flex fan maybe ? And if so any recommendations for something sort of original looking and a direct fit ?
Greatly appreciate all advice.
I just got done with my rear main seal, so it's still fresh in my mind. It really isn't hard to do, but it takes longer than you think it would. I used a FelPro 2912 rear main seal and the OS 3510T oil pan gasket. The Felpro snap ups work great when you're trying to get the pan on by yourself from underneath. The snap ups come with the oil pan gasket as well as all new bolts. You put just a little RTV in the corners as per the gasket instructions. I have no leaks now on my Vette and that makes me very happy.
I have the same engine, original fan and factory ac and runs cool all the time. I bet your radiator just needs to have 50 years of sludge boiled out of it by a radiator shop! Also, upon getting the timing right, as per Lars instruction, I found the car to run cooler (and quicker, initial advance at 12 degrees.)
VS
Verysoon
are you also also located south florida ? This car runs cool all the time as well except in peak heat of afternoon when sitting at idle for a while like at a long light , is not a problem in winter here which is maybe eighties during the day. Just summer.
When you have your pan off take a straight edge and make sure your sealing surfaces are flat. If not gently tap them flat with a small hammer. Check again, rinse and repeat until nice and flat. I'll bet you'll find its dimpled at every bolt hole.
And keep in mind. You bend metal then bend it back, it is softer and easier to bend back the other way. Take care not to overtighten oil pan bolts. Temps. Check seals around radiator. Maybe a little home depot stick on foam in any obvious gaps. But verify your temps. It might be 190-200 and telling you 230. Gauge and sending unit ain't young. And if one is they may not be fully compatable.
Last edited by derekderek; Jul 26, 2019 at 08:25 PM.
I have the same engine, original fan and factory ac and runs cool all the time. I bet your radiator just needs to have 50 years of sludge boiled out of it by a radiator shop! Also, upon getting the timing right, as per Lars instruction, I found the car to run cooler (and quicker, initial advance at 12 degrees.)
VS
I was thinking the same thing. At 50 years the original radiator just isn't what it used to be. If need be, maybe turn to a 4 core aluminum radiator which should work just fine.