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There have been a few GM foundry workers who claimed that the 010 020 under the timing cover is BS. Wives tale is that these blocks contained .1% more tin and .2% more nickel. Tin makes 'em easier to machine and nickel makes 'em harder.
There's not a factory block that will hold a candle to an aftermarket block, including Bowties, when it comes to hardness. Ask any machinist - particularly the ones that bore and hone blocks. It's a completely different cast iron recipe and the ingredients are a small part of why these blocks are more expensive.
That is exactly right....I have machined and honed Merlin, Motown, Big M, Little M and SHP block and I can tell you they are MUCH harder than any GM block ever made. You cannot even use the same stones, speed or feed that you would on a stock block.....the honing stones were diamond impregnated!
The “high nickel” block is total BS created by the same guys who worship 4 bolt blocks.....What cracks me up is after 30 years of building Chevrolet engines...it wasn’t until 2016 that I even had heard of anyone calling a factory block “high nickel”.....now the ******** here call all of them that....to sell them to the uneducated....it is like a damn counterculture of sheisters who pose as idiots.....
The misinformation and BS stories kill this hobby for me and others.....it is waaaaaay too expensive to be cheating people and I for one will not put up with it.
The people who know, know....and those who do not, tell stories.....
The high nickel block said 010 with 020 beneath it by the timing cover. And they were usually 4 bolts.
This is the exact Mark's on the block I found for my build.. out of a 76 3/4 ton truck which is in my car now. my original 2 bolt main block is awaiting a future rebuild but I have no reservations about using it vs my current 4 bolt for a replacement.
There have been a few GM foundry workers who claimed that the 010 020 under the timing cover is BS. Wives tale is that these blocks contained .1% more tin and .2% more nickel. Tin makes 'em easier to machine and nickel makes 'em harder.
There's not a factory block that will hold a candle to an aftermarket block, including Bowties, when it comes to hardness. Ask any machinist - particularly the ones that bore and hone blocks. It's a completely different cast iron recipe and the ingredients are a small part of why these blocks are more expensive.
I've also heard this as well but even living in the tonawandas where many of these engines where built my whole life, I still havent found any solid proof either way.. just a lot of people with either opinion.
I ran 400 2 bolt sbc in bracket car with cast GM crank ARP studs and phase 2 bow tie heads with 12.7:1 compression and shifted at 7000 and went through the traps at 7200. Never had a problem but the engine had a very good balance job.
I never actually checked my 010 020 block for nickel content. I put a set of 462624 2.02 heads on it. Dropped a valve and broke cyl number 1. So then it was a nickel a pound. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...e-odd.1054133/
Last edited by derekderek; Aug 2, 2019 at 07:07 AM.
400 blocks have mains a lot more like a big block, much wider registers on 2-bolt blocks than 4" bore blocks. This provides a much larger clamping area, similar to a 2-bolt big block. If GM had done this with 4" bore blocks, there wouldn't ever have been an issue with 2-bolt main cap blocks. It's not the 2 or 4 fasteners that are the issue, it's the register areas.
Most of us aren't going to beat hell out of our daily drivers, at least not hard enough to actually test the limits of any block, 2 or 4 bolts. I build my own engines and treat them according to what they're built for. Daily drivers don't get revved past about 4500 - 5000. Those with aftermarket blocks, cranks, rods, pistons and heads....those I beat the snot out of since they were built for it.
On 350 blocks that is the case. But 400 blocks with wider main journals were weakened by adding the outer 2 bolts on the 3 center journals. It is established that if one is shopping for a 400 block to beat said snot out of, 4 bolts are to be avoided.
So why did GM engineers use 4-bolt blocks when nearly all hipo engines back then were not making anywhere near 500 hp? They had a good reason or they wouldn't have spent the extra money for the extra bolts.
I often wondered about this as well. For instance, I know the 69 L46 350 was a 4 bolt main, but I was surprised to find the base 350 that year was 4 bolt as well. Perhaps one reason is that the base Corvette engine was
generally a high performance option for other cars. If I'm not mistaken the L48 350 was the top 350 for the Camaro for that year. Back to the point, why did GM engineers specify a 4 bolt main for a 300 HP engine when a
2 bolt would probably have sufficed? Perhaps the GM folks thought the average Corvette owner was going to hop up their engines?
I often wondered about this as well. For instance, I know the 69 L46 350 was a 4 bolt main, but I was surprised to find the base 350 that year was 4 bolt as well. Perhaps one reason is that the base Corvette engine was
generally a high performance option for other cars. If I'm not mistaken the L48 350 was the top 350 for the Camaro for that year. Back to the point, why did GM engineers specify a 4 bolt main for a 300 HP engine when a
2 bolt would probably have sufficed? Perhaps the GM folks thought the average Corvette owner was going to hop up their engines?
Maybe...or maybe it was something for the designers to do.....????? All I know is imagine the course of SBC history if they would have spent the time and money on a real cylinder head? It wasn't until 93' that they finally made a real head....and 96' for a regular small block. The tech was there, the engineers knew what to do....(I mean they made a rec port BBC head)....it was just like the heads were just forgotten about......
Remember...GM built solid lifter 327's with 2 bolt mains and Jenkins used these exact blocks in his early pro Stock efforts........