Finally getting ready to install new sbc crate engine and have a few questions.What can be on the engine and what must be left off to install.I have Comp long tubes, can they be put in bay and engine dropped onto them?Also installing new 200-4r, with engine or w/o.I want this to go smoothly as possible.Tricks and tips greatly appreciated Thanks

 

I did mine with the headers in the engine bay just wire tied up so they were out of the way and that worked fine. As far as the tranny, most would say to attach it to the engine and drop them in as one. Probably lots of threads in here on this also.

 

Have you used the headers before? If so, and they are already “predented” you could even mount them and install as a unit with the transmission. I’m assuming it’s a small block. If big block, I’d do the transmission separately.

 

Bolt the headders to the engine and drop it in? Your kidding, right?.
Set the headders in then drop the engine and trans in together. Slightly more jockeying but way easier in the long run.

 

Here are a few tips for you: Remove one the front tires, rest the car on a jack stand, and go in at an angle is you are using a cherry picker to install. Leave the distributor out to avoid damaging it against the firewall. Have the lower radiator hose installed onto the radiator before beginning installation of the engine.

 

I just dropped my engine and trans in as a unit. If you are using the boomerangs and factory routing, put the spark plug wires under the motor mounts before installing engine/trans. I installed the right header from underneath, and raised the left side a few inches and put it in from the top.
Before you bolt down the right header, you will need to install the starter. I just let the header hang on the bolts untill the starter was in.

No that's not where the fan is going.
Nor am I using the fuel line.

Kind of a tight fit getting it in, and ounce the z bar for the clutch is in place, there is about 3/8" clearance between the header and z bar.

 

Unless you have high quality stainless steel header, header wrap will destroy the mild steel tubing. Under WOT and a load the pipes actually start to glow orange right off the heads. actually the more HP created "heat" can get them glowing clear down to the collector area. My headman headers just crumbled apart after wrapping them. I was so pissed at the new wrap product that they even came out with a package warning about only SS headers or don't start wrapping mild steel until 12 inches down the primary pipes.

But anyway! As a professional older vette motor installer I learned a few things about how to do the job in the least amount of time. Never take off the hood. Never install with the tranny unless you are dumb enough to not make a removable cross member. time wise it's faster to leave the hood on and later install the tranny to the block. Only BBC do you have to remove the radiator and cross mounts.

SBC headers one side goes in from the bottom and the other from the top. BBC tie off the headers to the wheel wells and install the engine. Water pump , flywheel/ C/PP with the bell housing or flex installed only. tall valve covers are problems.

Use a floor jack to support the rear of the motor after the front engine mount bolts are in and you can safely remove the engine hoist.

Generally I install the motor at #1 cyl at TDC with the damper pointer at "Initial advance number of degrees" That way you can just look down the dizzy hole for the oil pump slot with a flashlight and rotate it into where you need it to stab the dizzy in and as it rotates in get the rotor pointed to the caps #1 spark plug terminal leading edge. Where it would first jump the arc. That way when you have the timing light installed and everything ready to go. It will fire the first time and timing will be nearly right on.

 

Unless you have high quality stainless steel header, header wrap will destroy the mild steel tubing.


Don't care, headers are consumables, more concerned with under hood temps.

 

Okey Dokee.


Steve

 

if thats the case you might want to rethink that radiator fan setup.

 

For my BBC I dropped it in without headers (but got them in place before bolting it in) but WITH the transmission on. Way easier that way.

 

I sort of borrowed an idea from Carrol Shelby- he was pretty good at coming up with them!!!


I raised the back of my car up- my drivetrain is fairly long - a couple extra cylinders and Tremec 5 speed- a MUCH better angle to do it at!!!

 

The caption under the pic says no that's not where the fan is going.
I'll be using dual fans. Side by side. Sucking.
Like I said, headers are a consumable. If they last a couple years, I'll be happy.
I'd like a set of Doug's, but after building the motor, and going through the rest of the driveline and suspension,the play money is in short supply.

 

Header coating is the best option for stopping under hood heat. Along with a vented hood in the lower pressure area. I also have a half inch 4 hole wood carb thermal spacer