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I have a question about rear tracking. When the trailing arms were originally removed the shims were taped and labeled but that has been so long ago the old shims are no where to be found. I have been reading up on how to set the tracking but all the guides I have found require rotors to be removed and flipped around and bolted to the spindles to use as a measurement point. I do not want to remove the rotors. Another thing the guides suggest is disconnecting the spring but wouldn’t that throw off the measurement.
Does anyone have an easy straight forward way to set the tracking?
when you say tracking, do you mean toe-in?
cannt see how you are going to set that without the car on an alignment rack to permit the tires to freely move and to be able to add and remove the shims from the TA sides.
years ago there was a incremented steel bar with arms that would reach from tire to tire across the back side of the tire and the front side of the tire which would give you the total difference front to back.
As mentioned above, you really should have an alignment shop align the rear and the front. I use stainless steel shims and set equal shims on each side (inboard and outboard). I put in the thin shims in first, and add the thicker shims. You may have to bang them in with a hammer. This should be enough to get you to a shop. Call or visit the shop first to see if they know how to align a C-2 or C-3 Corvette IRS. Bring your own specs.Check with Van Steel for alignment specs. Most shops will not touch a job like this on a Saturday as it will tie up a lift for a few hours. Make sure the rest of the suspension is not frozen with rust at the struts. Lastly, make sure you have the long pin that goes through the frame that locks the shims in place.Jerry
The trailing arm bushings have been replaced, adjustable strut rods installed, and a set of stainless steel shims. I called a highly recommended alignment shop and was told If I am doing the rear I have to get the front done as it will throw the front alignment off. I was given a price of $80 for the front and $80 for the rear. When I told them there were no shims in the rear at all I was told it may cost a little more because of the time involved in getting the shims correct. So I am going to estimate the alignment at $200.
That sounds expensive but after watching the DIY alignment I think it would be money well spent.
You can get close with a tape measure and some chalk. Find a point on the front and rear of each rear tire you can easily get to with the car setting on the ground. Make a mark at that point with the chalk and then start measuring. The difference will be your toe-in/out. About 1/8" toe-in is a good start. Adjusted by adding and removing shims. If you take a thin shim out of the inside, it gets added back to the outside. A good 4 wheel alignment is good so they can correct thrust angle at the same time. But that will at least get you in the ballpark.
You can get close with a tape measure and some chalk. Find a point on the front and rear of each rear tire you can easily get to with the car setting on the ground. Make a mark at that point with the chalk and then start measuring. The difference will be your toe-in/out. About 1/8" toe-in is a good start. Adjusted by adding and removing shims. If you take a thin shim out of the inside, it gets added back to the outside. A good 4 wheel alignment is good so they can correct thrust angle at the same time. But that will at least get you in the ballpark.
Look for DIY alignment posts by @cagotzmann . Here's one to get you started. You can absolutely get close doing this yourself, but you may need to invest in a few non-intuitive tools to do it correctly.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
You can do it with levels, tape measures a jack and string. If you google it theres a lot of videos out there.
It takes time and everytime you change a shim and lower the car onto the ground you have to roll it 10 feet backwards then 10 feet forward to get the suspension to settle.
I bought a quick trick alignment system that helps but you could make your own really easily. But the rim cant be bent.
All of the measurements come off the rim like it was the reversed brake discs. I had some straight rims that I could sit in dolly's to get the suspension to sit and align the string off of
I measure the front of the rear wheel and the back of it to see where the toe is. Then run string to jack stands from the front of the car back across the rear wheels so it just barely touches them like a giant straight edge. Then measure just behind the front wheel from the string to the frame in identical spots to see if the rear tires are pointing to the same spot on the horizon.
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Sep 11, 2019 at 10:18 AM.
You can do it with levels, tape measures a jack and string. If you google it theres a lot of videos out there.
It takes time and everytime you change a shim and lower the car onto the ground you have to roll it 10 feet backwards then 10 feet forward to get the suspension to settle.
I bought a quick trick alignment system that helps but you could make your own really easily. But the rim cant be bent.
All of the measurements come off the rim like it was the reversed brake discs. I had some straight rims that I could sit in dolly's to get the suspension to sit and align the string off of
I measure the front of the rear wheel and the back of it to see where the toe is. Then run string to jack stands from the front of the car back across the rear wheels so it just barely touches them like a giant straight edge. Then measure just behind the front wheel from the string to the frame in identical spots to see if the rear tires are pointing to the same spot on the horizon.
I can see it will take some time. Hopefully it will only need to be raised and lowered a couple of times. The car does not currently have tags or insurance so needless to say I will not be driving it to or from the alignment shop; however, I would still like to get it close.