When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I had the oil pump off the engine for 4 - 5 days to replace the rear main seal and oil pan gasket. I got everything back together, put oil in the engine, and can't get an oil pressure reading on the oil pressure gauge in the car. Pulled the coil wire and cranking the engine for 10 seconds, wait an minute then crank again. Spent about 25 minutes doing that and no pressure on the gauge. Any ideas?
You can't get enough RPMs using the starter to build enough pressure. All you are doing is taking life off your battery.
If you are curious about whether or not there IS oil pressure, you will need to pull the dizzy and use a primer tool run by a very stout electric drill.
You can't get enough RPMs using the starter to build enough pressure. All you are doing is taking life off your battery.
If you are curious about whether or not there IS oil pressure, you will need to pull the dizzy and use a primer tool run by a very stout electric drill.
When I let the car sit for a few weeks, that is the procedure I use and I get an oil pressure reading on the dash usually by the beginning of the third time cranking it. Why then and not now? I also have a charger on the battery.
? did you remove the short oil pump intermediate shaft but fail to reinstall it ?
? did you dislodge the pickup-screen ?
No and no. I don't believe the oil pump can be bolted back on unless the pump shaft is aligned with the bottom of the distributor. It's the original oil pump, and it looked good to me.
When I let the car sit for a few weeks, that is the procedure I use and I get an oil pressure reading on the dash usually by the beginning of the third time cranking it. Why then and not now? I also have a charger on the battery.
Procedure's good ... I do also ... same for race cars ... they have separate starter & Ign on-off switches (instead of pulling coil wire) ... piston aircraft same.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
you should be fine just starting it. Its been 2 weeks not 2 years. If there wasnt an oil pressure problem before you shouldnt have one now using th esame components. If the oil pressure isnt there the second it fires off then shut it down. Theres folks that only drive there vette every 22 to 4 weeks aroud here and I dont suspect they prime there oil system everytime they go for a ride. Same with us guys in snow and salt country.
If it were mine I would just start it if all the pieces are in there.
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Sep 17, 2019 at 06:34 AM.
Heads up is right. I would pull the distributor and prime the pump with the tool and a drill. No pressure or resistance means the pan is coming off again.
Lets get back to installing that oil-pump. On the rear main cap is a alignment pin that assures the pump is installed correctly. Sometimes that pin gets what they called a mushroomed end on it, from, who knows what? If that pin is flattened out, it will keep the pump from seating / sealing on the main cap.
Engine builders will use a file to make the pin perfectly round and sometimes put a chamfer on the alignment pin hole in the pump. There are a few videos showing that on YouTube.
In a perfect world, the installation of the pump is done on the engine-stand which is up-side-down. But most times we are laying on our back in cramped quarters with a trouble-light trying to mount the pump in the dark.
So my question to you is, do you feel confident that the oil pump fit flush with the cap AND the bolt torqued to 65 lbs?
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Sep 17, 2019 at 12:40 PM.
Lets get back to installing that oil-pump. On the rear main cap is a alignment pin that assures the pump is installed correctly. Sometimes that pin gets what they called a mushroomed end on it, from, who knows what? If that pin is flattened out, it will keep the pump from seating / sealing on the main cap.
Engine builders will use a file to make the pin perfectly round and sometimes put a chamfer on the alignment pin hole in the pump. There are a few videos showing that on YouTube.
In a perfect world, the installation of the pump is done on the engine-stand which is up-side-down. But most times we are laying on our back in cramped quarters with a trouble-light trying to mount the pump in the dark.
So my question to you is, do you feel confident that the oil pump fit flush with the cap AND the bolt torqued to 65 lbs?
I feel extremely confident that the pump fit flush with the main bearing cap. As a matter of fact, I recall looking at the dowel pin on the main cap as I was installing the oil pump bolt. Photo I just took with the 62 LED work light I was using. NO flash used from my phone camera. It was pretty bright.
Well, after I phoned the local Autozone in regards to renting an engine oil priming tool, and before I left the house to get it, I tried the engine cranking procedure one more time. What did I have to lose. I just couldn't understand not having oil pressure. All I did was take the oil pump off, let it sit on my work bench, and put it back on. After an additional 10 minutes of cranking, the needle FINALLY MOVED and we have oil pressure.
Apparently, the only problem was me not giving enough time to let the oil pump pressure up. I want to sincerely
give a big Thank You to all the members that replied!