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Hi,
replaced radiator with dewitt went to 180 thermostat, all going well..
i filled up radiator open until thermostat opened, filled 1/3 above cold driving few hundred miles..noted dropping levels to cold mark when hot after a few drives. Drove it up to temperature and added to hot level. When cold it dropped to 3/4 inch below hot mark i filled it to. Hoping the loses are air burping out over several drives?
i am really hoping engine not using coolant.
q- how much to folks see the level change from cold to hot? Mine seems to not move or little..new cap too.
Will monitor
thanks
Have never attempted to add coolant when it was fully warmed up.
Keep an eye on the fully cold level. As long as it doesn't continue to drop you have no issue.
Have never attempted to add coolant when it was fully warmed up.
Keep an eye on the fully cold level. As long as it doesn't continue to drop you have no issue.
hi, i filled the overflow to hot right after harddrive, can you advise how much the level changes from hot to cold on overflow bottle?
A couple 1/8" holes drilled in the T-Stat flange eliminates the need to remove the Rad Hose, Waterneck, T-Stat, apply new gasket, wait for the RTV to dry, put everything back together, etc.
All extra work, not needed.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Coolant, being denser than air, will push air out of the block into the top of the rad. I did the following with my new rad. Filled rad up and then started cold engine with cap off. The coolant level had dropped. Topped up the coolant and replaced cap. Went for a cruise. Next morning, removed cap, started engine and checked coolant level in rad. It was down again. Topped up again. Replaced cap. Went for a drive. Third morning. Removed cap. Started engine. Replaced cap. Went for a drive. Air has been displaced by the coolant and gone. Overflow tank will keep rad topped up from here on in.
Thanks all, i did the front up fill when replacing radiator.. maybe it took a lot from before because i ran heater...i hope so...small whitish smoke at start up has me worried..
pics hot cold hot so far..working on timing now neve checked with harbor freight taiwan light..just need to figure a way to check rpm accurately as my tach is not accurate low.
Good news i think..will update..
while checking timing noticed liquid bottom fan shroud, traced to overflow bottle hose..yes original..thought slit but think it was just cracking and 40 years of that groove from old radiator..cut off inch and replaced, will see.
thanks for help..hoping this was issue but will see
Traced to hose Wet but nothing obvious and radiator welds look ok Thought cracked through but not Appears no cuts through but groove permanent and some fractures
Oem clamp still leaked, worm clamp on. I assume they get weak when older? I will try to find new one as i hate the look of that clamp...
so far dry..my God what a great day to drive...loving the excuse to test drive
Follow up..
got new hose and clamps 3/8 inch from a sponsor. Fixed leaks at both ends of overflow as the old hose was just too worn out to seal and diameter larger even with worm clamp tight..lesson learned.
i also found another major coolant leak, cold fall driving day heater on windows down....smell of antifreeze...defrost fogs windows..ugh....on a plus side the vacuum hot water shut off works..no heat no coolant loss when set to cold! Nomanual valve needed for me.
open for 79 ac heater core tips tricks references..iwill buy core from partner with seal kit..debating doing what some threads say to have leak checked and resolder?
thanks
Last edited by interpon; Oct 13, 2019 at 09:05 AM.
I wouldn't repair the heater core. It's served you well but its OLD! No guarantees that another leak won't appear sooner than you would like.
oh i agree wasnt trying to repair..i meant when new some were saying to pressure check and im not t sure i have local resources for that..oem style or what looks like aluminum on vendors sites..
lol love the service manual..only 8 steps lolol..and i dont see a seperate right left dash pad.. Easy!
Last edited by interpon; Oct 13, 2019 at 10:27 AM.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
I would forgo a pressure test of a new core if you are buying from a reputable manufacturer/vendor. Did you pressure test your new rad prior to install? Me neither.
Unless you're a spritely contortionist; when working under a vette dash, it's often much easier to first remove seat(s).
good advice..nope 6/3
ha c3 sunday..ordered paragon hoses core and seals...hoses not off yet but so far the usual pita..some poor previous duct work.. Have not broke anything yet..new radio time? Fix clock??? Carpet soaked
Coolant concern question 79 L82 m
