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Looks like water has gotten into the rear bowl , I would be planning on flushing all that crap out of the rear system . But being your brakes , I would do the front as well , just because that fluid looks OLD . Before I started I would check the condition of all four rubber hoses and if the they look old I would buy new ones so there ready to go on when you start. Also how does the master cylinder car seal look ? If its all swollen then a new one of them as well. This is assuming your brakes still work fine .
Looks like water has gotten into the rear bowl , I would be planning on flushing all that crap out of the rear system . But being your brakes , I would do the front as well , just because that fluid looks OLD . Before I started I would check the condition of all four rubber hoses and if the they look old I would buy new ones so there ready to go on when you start. Also how does the master cylinder car seal look ? If its all swollen then a new one of them as well. This is assuming your brakes still work fine .
I agree bazza. Instead of flushing that crap through your system, use a turkey baster or something similar, and remove the fluid, front and rear, from the master cylinder. Make sure you don’t have a caliper leaking. You only want to bleed those brakes once.
I think to rebuild the entire brake system.....hoses, eliminate that brake light switch/prop valve so it's called, get a fresh master cyl, and on all the calipers, pull them apart and see the stainless linings, IF the bores are rusted/pitted, replace the calipers......when done, finish up with DOT 5 fluid......it is silicone bases and will not absorb water, dot 3-4 fluid is hydroscopic as hell.....absorbs water, easy mix.....
when you replace/rebuild the calipers, get the O ring pistons and change over, they are much better....
Brakes are working.
Pretty sure the fluid hasn't been changed in a couple years.
Master cylinder is in good shape.
I believe the brake callipers need to be rebuilt as they are sweating - not sure if this could lead to the contamination.
I think I'll remove the fluid (turkey baster style) and replace it with new fluid until I can get it to a mechanic.
Brakes are working.
Pretty sure the fluid hasn't been changed in a couple years.
Master cylinder is in good shape.
I believe the brake callipers need to be rebuilt as they are sweating - not sure if this could lead to the contamination.
I think I'll remove the fluid (turkey baster style) and replace it with new fluid until I can get it to a mechanic.
Thanks for the replies!
Yes the master doesn't look that old , good idea to remove the emulsified fluid from the top and yes get it to a vette doctor asap.
Brakes are working.
Pretty sure the fluid hasn't been changed in a couple years.
Master cylinder is in good shape.
I believe the brake callipers need to be rebuilt as they are sweating - not sure if this could lead to the contamination.
I think I'll remove the fluid (turkey baster style) and replace it with new fluid until I can get it to a mechanic.
Thanks for the replies!
Get some DOT 5.1 fluid not DOT 5. Make sure you flush out all that fluid. You may need to replace the cap seal on your master cylinder.
Given the good condition of the MC, I’d just flush with new DOT 4 brake fluid. If your calipers are leaking, attend to that too. Might be wise to have a good look at your brake lines for any signs f rust.
Using a turkey baster is a good idea, however, DO NOT remove all the fluid. Leave a little at the bottom. If you don't, you will introduce air bubble into the MC and have to remove the MC from the vehicle and "bench bleed" it. (You will never get the last bubble out of the MC if it runs dry) Then add new fluid.
Stick with DOT3. Even the newer cars 2014-15-16 use DOT3. And it IS available in a silicone. Switching from DOT3 to a 5 will just create more grief for you.
Stick with DOT3. Even the newer cars 2014-15-16 use DOT3. And it IS available in a silicone. Switching from DOT3 to a 5 will just create more grief for you.
Most new cars now come from the factory filled with DOT4. DOT4 has a higher boiling point than the older DOT3. DOT5.1 has a higher yet boiling point, and is compatible with 3 & 4. DOT4 is used in antilock brakes, not a concern with pre-1986 Corvettes
Silicone based DOT5 is NOT compatible with the other brake fluids, and cannot be used in antilock brake systems. It aerates, becoming useless for stopping. The best use for DOT5 brake fluid is in a car that is driven very infrequently. It is not hydroscopic, meaning it doesn’t attract water, why it is good for vehicle mostly stored.
For a Corvette, or any car for that matter, one should buy the fluid with the highest boiling point possible. I like Wilwood 600 Plus Super Hi-Temp Racing Brake Fluid. In my experience, driving in the Sierra Nevada foothills, it does not boil like typical auto parts store brake fluid.