383 vs rebuild 350
I'm sure this has been asked a thousand times, my apologies.
I as nearly all of you would like more power out of my 76 C3 l48, #'s matching
I was thinking of changing to a Stroker small block 350-375hp. I have enough knowledge to be dangerous, so please excuse my questions if you find them stupid.
- What type of water pump do I need to purchase
- Does it need a specific Oil Pan on it
- Do all Stroker blocks have a provision for a mechanical fuel pump
- Do the Motor mounts need changing
- Will only certain Intakes fit under the hood
- Will my Headers bolt back on to either Aluminum, or Vortec Heads
- Should I get the Q jet rebuilt, or buy an Edlebrock Carb
Or should I get the l48 2 bolt main rebuilt, including new heads, intake, and carb up to the same 350-375 hp ?
Tks in advance.
Myles
PS:
Hoping to have the $$$$ by the Spring
Last edited by Roentgen; Nov 1, 2019 at 02:46 PM.
- What type of water pump do I need to purchase ... any OE-type wp in good condition is more than adequate
- Does it need a specific Oil Pan on it ... Most 383 setups do Not require a special pan
- Do all Stroker blocks have a provision for a mechanical fuel pump ... Some do and some don't
- Do the Motor mounts need changing ... No ... but best to get new ones ... not expensive
- Will only certain Intakes fit under the hood ... C3 have relatively low hood clearance and cannot fit just any intake height.
- Will my Headers bolt back on to either Aluminum, or Vortec Heads ... They should
- Should I get the Q jet rebuilt, or buy an Edlebrock Carb ... have Lars rebuild your Qjet
If you're Not trying to run numbers-match ... suggest get a later model roller block/core and build it.
Fuel pump mount/hole can be finished by local auto machine shop
Last edited by Eric P; Nov 1, 2019 at 03:40 PM.
Tks for your insight, and advice. Both are sound choices. I guess it will come down to cost as many things do. I'm pretty sure I will either buy a Stroker 383 now that my questions have been answered, or equally turn my 350 into one as another option.
I'll definitely post my experience on the site once complete.
Cheers,
Myles
Is the Rad OK for an upgraded engine if I send it to Rad shop, car has no AC/Auto Trans
Tks,
Myles
Last edited by Roentgen; Nov 1, 2019 at 10:07 PM.
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The question here is how good of shape is the 350? If the block, crank, rods, oil pan can be saved......you can save a pile of money there.....if not, build the 383.
I run a 406 on the stock 72 radiator and it is fine.
Jebby
Tks for the response. The car was rebuilt over time by an older guy who ran a NAPA store in Saskatoon Saskatchewan up here.
i don’t think the engine was touched other than headers & a dress up kit. Having said that the drivetrain has about 77,000 original mi on it. So I believe it’s in good shape, car runs well but lacks ba...lls
budget is always a factor, especially up here in Canada where things cost more.
but if I don’t change the rotating assembly I won’t get the power I want correct ? I’m aiming for 350-375hp. So a top end kit won’t do it.
Myles
Last edited by Corvettedave02; Nov 4, 2019 at 06:59 PM.
That's it. For some....that torque increase is a lot......but the smart builders know that picking a cam for the 383 is different than the 350.......so you increase cam timing to take advantage of the extra 28 ci.
I have built, drove and owned 383's........they are cool but not all that........a lot of backyard guys have no idea what they are doing and just throw these things together.......but I will tell you right now that a good running 355 will walk a half *** 383 everyday of the week.
Jebby
im figuring on a $5000 budget up here. Which probably doesn’t get much these days.
id like to use my block, and if so, not sure what to build.
If I don’t make the rotating assembly a stroker, then what are my options. The current heads are not great from what I have read.
I guess what I am really asking what is the best bang for the $$$ to make my goal hp with reliability.
Tks in advance
Myles
im figuring on a $5000 budget up here. Which probably doesn’t get much these days.
id like to use my block, and if so, not sure what to build.
If I don’t make the rotating assembly a stroker, then what are my options. The current heads are not great from what I have read.
I guess what I am really asking what is the best bang for the $$$ to make my goal hp with reliability.
Tks in advance
Myles
Parts would include a Dart Air Gap intake, Dart 180 Pro 1 heads, Howard’s Hydraulic roller cam, Harland Sharp rockers, Trend pushrods, Wiseco Pro-Tru pistons with moly rings, Cloyes Hex-a-just, Stock Corvette pan, STD Volume oil pump, MSD distributor.....750HP Holley....
Easy mid 12 second car.....
Jebby
im figuring on a $5000 budget up here. Which probably doesn’t get much these days.
id like to use my block, and if so, not sure what to build.
If I don’t make the rotating assembly a stroker, then what are my options. The current heads are not great from what I have read.
I guess what I am really asking what is the best bang for the $$$ to make my goal hp with reliability.
Tks in advance
Myles
brand new long block NOT Rebuilt ... 357hp ... < $3700 delivered (without balancer)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-19367080
brand new long block NOT Rebuilt ... 255hp ... $2200 delivered (includes balancer)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-OEM-NEW-...53.m1438.l2649
add this cam to the $2200 motor ... and it's become the same as $3700 motor ... now 357hp ... cam $356 delivered ... ALL Brand New Not Rebuilt.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/n...7151/overview/
if the fuel pump mount is not complete, a local auto machine shop can finish it for $100.
All three of these engines are moving the same amount of air.....dictated by the heads, intake and cam......the smaller ones just have to pump more times (RPM) to achieve the same goal.
Now.....if you take advantage of the cubes with cam and heads then it is a different story....
Cubic Inch itself does not create horsepower....
But stroke adds arm (torque).....at lower engine speeds....it has to....it is a longer arm....further out from center....
All three of the above engines have the same bore....the only difference is 3.0, 3.25, 3.48, 3.750 stroke respectively....
Stick a stock DZ, a 365 solid 327(331) and a 350 (355) LT-1 on the dyno....all three make about 370 horsepower....but the 355 will have a lot more torque under the curve....like 50 ft/lbs.
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Nov 5, 2019 at 08:18 PM.
The opposite is also true that if you destroke the engine, you will decrease the cubes (and that lowers peak torque) but the torque curve will shift to favor the higher RPM side of the torque curve. The higher RPM side of the torque curve matters if you concentrate your RPMs there to win races with big bore/small stroke in a cubic inch limited engine. As you know, Torque x RPM x a constant = HP. Not great for a street car that sees a lot of time below the peak torque but great if you spend all your time up high in the RPMs shifting between gears where peak HP that is all that matters.
Last edited by stingr69; Nov 6, 2019 at 07:11 AM.













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