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Is the only good location the chassis ground under the battery compartment on the driver side? I’m tackling the audio system this weekend and I’m kinda stumped as to where I can ground the amp.
Ummm- go directly to the battery- that's the absolute best ground.
Richard
I thought that was frowned upon due to possible interference? That was my first notion but I thought I’d make sure. It’s been ages since I installed a system
I thought that was frowned upon due to possible interference? That was my first notion but I thought I’d make sure. It’s been ages since I installed a system
Im interested in what you decide. I just ordered all of my stereo stuff from Crutchfield this morning and I will have the 4 channel amp for the speakers and the mono amp for the sub.
Like Richard, I went directly to the battery. No metal chassis for attachment like other cars. Positive fused connected directly to battery also. Has worked well for 20+ years.
Last edited by C3 Stroker; Nov 9, 2019 at 02:16 PM.
Well I finally got around to getting the audio system set up. Once the interior is reassembled I’ll test everything out and make sure all is well. I will be grounding the amp to the - of the battery.
Personally my solution would have been to drill a hole in the battery box, put a grommet and feed the wire, seal it and put a ground distribution some where in the cargo area. So I would have a local area to ground all my devices too inside.
Personally my solution would have been to drill a hole in the battery box, put a grommet and feed the wire, seal it and put a ground distribution some where in the cargo area. So I would have a local area to ground all my devices too inside.
I did something similar as it seems everything electronic wants a direct ground to the battery. I connected just one extra battery cable from the battery ground to a distribution block and left that block inside the front of the battery compartment. I used velcro to hold the block down so I could pull it up easily for better access. I used some fine strand cable to make the cable as it is more flexible and easier to work with.
I did the same thing for the positive side of the battery but I had room to mount that distribution block on the back wall of the battery box.
I also installed a battery disconnect switch in the same compartment. It would be nice to have a little more room inside the battery compartment but I managed to make everything fit and work. I'm ready for battery technology to improve such that car batteries can be physically much smaller for the same capacity as today's batteries.
DC3,
I don't believe you need to stay with the stock size and could go smaller, of course you would lose some CCA. As long as you get the right amount of amperage and reserve that you need to start the vehicle, i believe you would be fine.
In my truck for instance, I went larger and in order to do so I had to modify how it actually connects since the polarity posts are reversed on the larger battery.
Like Richard, I went directly to the battery. No metal chassis for attachment like other cars. Positive fused connected directly to battery also. Has worked well for 20+ years.
Amp ground under car?
