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Break-in noise

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Old Nov 12, 2019 | 07:25 PM
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Default Break-in noise

While starting my cam break-in I heard what I believe to be a rocker rattle. Nothing major
but if I remove the covers and find any loose rockers can I just tighten them up and be good?
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Old Nov 12, 2019 | 07:31 PM
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Absolutely! Just follow the procedures for setting valvelash on hydraulics.
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Old Nov 12, 2019 | 07:34 PM
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Thanks
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Old Nov 12, 2019 | 07:50 PM
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Its somewhat common for a rocker to be loose after a new cam install. Maybe the lifter bled down. Maybe when you rolled the engine over to set the lash, the valve was just starting to open. You can rotate the crank in 90* increments while searching for a loose rocker. Just don't do this too much or you'll remove all the break-in lube.
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Old Nov 12, 2019 | 08:18 PM
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I have a solid 10 minutes or so at 2500 rpm on this engine
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Old Nov 12, 2019 | 09:22 PM
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Re-lash the valves and run it again for another 10. It should not change significantly. Is it iron block and iron heads, iron block with aluminum heads?

Last edited by claysmoker; Nov 12, 2019 at 09:24 PM.
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Old Nov 12, 2019 | 09:31 PM
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Iron heads and block L82
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Old Nov 12, 2019 | 10:27 PM
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Can I seat the rings w/o driving the car and if so best way. Thanks
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Old Nov 12, 2019 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve Kistler
Iron heads and block L82
So set the valves cold at whatever lash the cam co. recommends. Run it for 10 minutes and check the lash hot. Should not change by more than a thou or so. With aluminum heads I set them about .003 tighter and they come out with the lash correct when hot.

Originally Posted by Steve Kistler
Can I seat the rings w/o driving the car and if so best way. Thanks
What type rings? Molys are probably seated in the first few minutes of running if the thing is built correctly.
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Old Nov 14, 2019 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve Kistler
Can I seat the rings w/o driving the car and if so best way. Thanks
No.....they will not seat unless under a load.....no matter if moly or ductile iron.......it need load to raise cylinder pressure to push the gas on the backside of the ring...this helps the ring "scrub" the wall and knock the peaks off the crosshatch.....once the "peaks" are knocked off....the rings are seated.
In fact.....do not run the engine a lot until you get it under a load.....you can knock the face off the moly without properly knocking the peaks off the crosshatch and it may never seat in.....Ductile iron is much more forgiving for this.
You could load it against the converter if it is an auto, but it would take a lot.

Jebby

Last edited by Jebbysan; Nov 14, 2019 at 11:54 AM.
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Old Nov 14, 2019 | 06:19 PM
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Since the car will not be road worthy in the near foreseeable future I assume I will have to wait to seat the rings. I have about 30 minutes at 2500+ rpm so far. So should I not run it until ready to drive? Thanks
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Old Nov 14, 2019 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve Kistler
Can I seat the rings w/o driving the car and if so best way. Thanks
No. Need to wait.
Breaking in new rings procedure has been the same concept for decades.
Find a really steep, long hill w/o much traffic. At the crest when ascending keep down-shifting. This forces the rings to brake the vehicle and draws maximum vacuum to remove gases. Do it twice. If not three times.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Nov 14, 2019 at 07:32 PM.
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Old Nov 14, 2019 | 07:40 PM
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I understand the regular way which is why my thread was for a non drivable car. I have months of work before I can get it on the road. Just took care of most expensive part first which was engine rebuild.
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Old Nov 14, 2019 | 10:17 PM
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My a//t doesn’t shift right and stays in 1st which is why I didn’t want to drive it but if I can do the seating in low only I am listening. Can I just romp it on and off a dozen times and be done?
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Old Nov 15, 2019 | 08:36 AM
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Do you live on top of a mountain? Top to bottom. Bottom to top in low gear would do it.
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