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Strut Rod Install Question

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Old Nov 13, 2019 | 02:43 PM
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Default Strut Rod Install Question

When you install new strut rods, I understand you should tighten them after the car is sitting on the ground (like with the upper and lower front A arms). Question, would it work to use a floor jack under the control arms to raise them to ride height and tighten the strut rods, or do you need to have the weight of the car on the suspension?

I just thought it would be easier then sliding under the back of the car with it sitting so low.

Thanks,
Adam

Last edited by AdamMeh; Nov 13, 2019 at 02:43 PM.
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Old Nov 13, 2019 | 02:56 PM
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Hey Adam....I would drop the car and bounce it..the whole point of course is to lock down the bushings in a 'neutral position'. This is so they don't spin or even worse sheer, when the car is at ride height.

I would not lift the car from the control arms (trailing arms), frankly, they are not designed for that. As well as lifting the car off of the jack-stands or what have you. Dropping the wheels on roll around dollies or really big blocks of wood would get you half way there in terms if crawling around when the car is at 'ride height'. The whole point is NOT that the car is angled (or as the kids say it 'stanced') but that the weight is on the bushings.

Yes. I know its a bit of an ***-pain....but cheer up! You only have to do this once!

Unkahal from the east side... (my back hurts just from talking about it!) LOL

Last edited by L-46man; Nov 13, 2019 at 02:57 PM.
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Old Nov 13, 2019 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by L-46man
Hey Adam....I would drop the car and bounce it..the whole point of course is to lock down the bushings in a 'neutral position'. This is so they don't spin or even worse sheer, when the car is at ride height.

I would not lift the car from the control arms (trailing arms), frankly, they are not designed for that. As well as lifting the car off of the jack-stands or what have you. Dropping the wheels on roll around dollies or really big blocks of wood would get you half way there in terms if crawling around when the car is at 'ride height'. The whole point is NOT that the car is angled (or as the kids say it 'stanced') but that the weight is on the bushings.

Yes. I know its a bit of an ***-pain....but cheer up! You only have to do this once!

Unkahal from the east side... (my back hurts just from talking about it!) LOL

Thanks for the response - makes sense on bouncing the car etc. I'll tighten them up once it has settled. The car is currently up on 4 jack stands, so I was just talking about using a floor jack to raise up the control arms, not the car itself.

Thanks again,
Adam
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Old Nov 13, 2019 | 05:04 PM
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The car is currently up on 4 jack stands, so I was just talking about using a floor jack to raise up the control arms, not the car itself.

I grocked that Adam....this is what I caution against....you don't want to work under a 'three legged stool' You will be lifting that 1/4 of the car and that will make it unstable. Nobody dies on my watch!

I want to see you at the Pavilions...not HEAR ABOUT YOU! be safe SIR!

Unkahal
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Old Nov 13, 2019 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by L-46man
The car is currently up on 4 jack stands, so I was just talking about using a floor jack to raise up the control arms, not the car itself.

I grocked that Adam....this is what I caution against....you don't want to work under a 'three legged stool' You will be lifting that 1/4 of the car and that will make it unstable. Nobody dies on my watch!

I want to see you at the Pavilions...not HEAR ABOUT YOU! be safe SIR!

Unkahal
Totally understand ( and appreciate that! ). The control arm isn't attached to anything at this point (spring, shock and strut rod are disconnected) so it's just the weight of the control arm that I would be lifting.
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Old Nov 13, 2019 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by AdamMeh
Totally understand ( and appreciate that! ). The control arm isn't attached to anything at this point (spring, shock and strut rod are disconnected) so it's just the weight of the control arm that I would be lifting.
It will get you really close. Do it. Fine tune later.
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Old Nov 13, 2019 | 07:31 PM
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Are you using stock style rods or the adjustable poly / heim ones?
Get them close (I used ratchet straps to hold be TA up without the spring installed) and then fine tune later as stated above (if you remove the spare tube there's a lot more room)
When I tightened mine I set the rear tires onto a set of ramps and left the front on the jack stands (pre-quicklift days)
M
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Old Nov 13, 2019 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
It will get you really close. Do it. Fine tune later.
Originally Posted by Mooser

Are you using stock style rods or the adjustable poly / heim ones?
Get them close (I used ratchet straps to hold be TA up without the spring installed) and then fine tune later as stated above (if you remove the spare tube there's a lot more room)
When I tightened mine I set the rear tires onto a set of ramps and left the front on the jack stands (pre-quicklift days)
M
Thanks for the response guys. I'm using a stock style replacement (non-adjustable).

I'm thinking they were due.


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Old Nov 13, 2019 | 09:52 PM
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Use L-46man's suggestion and put some large wood blocks or a couple concrete blocks under the rear tires and put the weight of the car on them. I did this when I replaced the struts and also kept the jack stands loosely under the frame, just in case before crawling under the car. The rubber in the bushings will compress and move to its weighted position and you can tighten everything up then.
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Old Nov 17, 2019 | 04:30 AM
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AdamMeh This might be OBE. But get the adjustable strut rods............
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Old Nov 17, 2019 | 06:22 PM
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Make sure you get the bolts properly tightened for sure. I just had the bracket the two struts attach to in the middle come off mine (lost all 4 bolts). I'll be trying the "put it up on blocks option" myself. This post saved me from posting the same question.
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Old Nov 17, 2019 | 07:30 PM
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One of the bonuses to the adjustable struts (heim or poly) is you can tighten them in any position since the inner sleeve isn't bonded to the outer. Doing mine the first time with the straps and then re-tightening using the ramps was a pain. Last time (adjustable struts) at least made that part easier....
M
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Old Nov 18, 2019 | 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Mooser

Are you using stock style rods or the adjustable poly / heim ones?
Get them close (I used ratchet straps to hold be TA up without the spring installed) and then fine tune later as stated above (if you remove the spare tube there's a lot more room)
When I tightened mine I set the rear tires onto a set of ramps and left the front on the jack stands (pre-quicklift days)
M
That is what I was going to suggest. That along with disconnecting your exhaust and moving that out of the way.
I don't run a spare tire carrier (I know all about the safety aspect of not having it installed yada yada yada).
You'll find you have a lot of room with it removed:




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