I'm trying to decide which way to go with this car. When I bought it it looked to be all original. I did note that the air pump belt and hoses had been removed and I know from experience that was typically done as soon as many cars were brought home from the dealer, so that didn't bother me. My original plan was to remove and box the air pump but keep the remainder of the emissions systems original. That of course would include the electronic carb and dizzy.

I just rebuilt the E-carb and that went as planned. I am waiting on some tools to make the on-car adjustments. The throttle position sensor seems to work fine based on the resistance changing with position. The mixture control solenoid was not working but the electrical connector was broken, so after I replace that I'll find out if it works or not. So the engine was running rich for a long time, and the catalytic converter is probably plugged solid.

That happened to me a long time ago with a 1981 year car and all I did was unbolt the cat, bust the guts out of it then reinstall it. I plan on doing the same, or just replace it with a length of pipe.

I recently found out that the dizzy is not original and is not controlled by the CCC. Because of that I'm beginning to re-think.

All the thermostat switches, electrical and vacuum, if those don't work will be expensive to replace. To diagnose/ make repairs is fairly straightforward it's just the cost, and the fact that it may be far easier and gain a few ponies by going old school, new Edelbrock carb, and eliminate the CCC altogether.

I'd keep the double snorkels and factory cold air intake but eliminate the valve controls. Not going to be driving this down below 50 degrees anyway.

I don't see any advantage of keeping the EGR so remove the guts and controls.

PCV is important and simple so keep that. Same with EVAP.

 

your thread title says emissions. do you have to pass emissions? do you know if that POS ECU still works? as i mentioned in other thread, when-not if-it fails that CCC is UnControlled Carb. 38 year old board with 38 year old capacitors leaking their 38 year old diaelectric out...

 

It's registered as an antique so no state tests required. Funny that electronics with no moving parts are typically the least reliable.

I could go with an Edelbrock but it is important for me to keep the automatic transmission linkage geometry correct and of course keep the cruise control. I may be hunting yards for a 1980 or earlier Q-jet core...

 

I urge you to either find an old Q-jet to do up or buy a spread bore 4075 Holley.......if you bolt a square bore carb on a Q-jet manifold you will be sorry. It will never run quite right.
A popular upgrade is the Performer EPS manifold.......this is a much nicer unit than the woeful factory low rise Q-jet piece.
I like the Holley 670 Truck Avenger on this intake for a relatively stock engine......works phenomenal out of the box.
You can s#%tcan the CCC distributor as well by purchasing a standard HEI but I like the MSD ready to run......make sure you time it correctly using Lars' papers on timing.
Add a set of long tube headers and a nice true dual system and it REALLY wakes these cars up........

Jebby

 

From what I can tell the only intake that will clear the hood is the Edelbrock 2101, which is a spread bore for a Q-jet or a Holley 4175.

 

The Performaer EPS is like 1/4" taller....it will fit under the stock hood. The 2101 Performer can accept a square bore carb if you use the thin square bore plate they offer. I have bolted square bore carbs to this manifold without the squaring plate but not all square bore carb bases will cover the whole mount pad. The bolt holes are there for both. The EPS is a slightly better manifold and had become very popular to mount a square bore carb.

Jebby