Bought this crate back in mid June and just started to tear it down for some mods. I deff shoulda fogged the top end but now that I'm in the bottom end, I'm thinking might try n return it since that stuff isn't on me! ebay has always been good bout issues but I'd like some more opinions first.

UnCrating
Tear Down part 2
Tear Down part 3

 

Could you highlight some photos of the issues so we don't have to watch 50 minutes of video?
I commend you making them....but I can't watch all that as I have stuff to do.

Jebby

 

Truthfully it's not a big deal make your improvements and forget it. A little surface staining won't hurt a thing.

 

Just my opinion. The “issues” you found are things I would expect to find in a remanufactured engine for $1600(poorly labeled rods/different style main cap bolts/connecting rods of differing conditions). I did not see any majorly wrong, albeit I did not watch all 50 mins, skimmed through.
As long as the bearings looked good I wouldn’t have any complaints for a $1600 long block.

 

Part 3 17:20 for the main issue, rusty rods and out of firing order. Sry I don't know what hosting site peep use these days since the whole phtobucket deal, check other comments for details.

 

I agree it's not the end of the world, just debating if it's less hassle to reassemble and buy a new GM engine if that is an option. I mean going deeper and checking more things out is interesting but I don't want to waste too much time either. And at this point I do expect to find more issues.

Heads are not matching casting numbers
The drivers side deck is at a slant possibly from the in-the-hole results

I don't own an OD 2-3" micometer atm to check the crank but it deff needs to be checked now!

 

Perhaps one of the parts houses, Autozone, O'Riellys, etc loan/rent mics as part of the tool program. Just be sure they include a setting master. If the crank is out, take it to a small machine shop and have it checked. You should be able to find someone to check it for a bag of donuts or a six pack of beer. If you were local, I'd help you out.

 

Mics etc are rather delicate critters ... I couldn't rely on a loaner from a general store.
Take the motor to an auto machine shop and have them check it for you ... OR ...
... return it (if seller will accept it) ... then buy a New one ... GM 12530283 / 12681431

 

I don't have a lot of confidence in local machine shops, part of why I got a crate. Plus hate to use a persons/biz time w/o paying them. I may buy a ok one after the holiday.

 

what do you mean out of firing order? the numbers on the pistons have nothing to do with the firing order.

nothing wrong with 2 different casting number heads as long as they are same design.

I see nothing wrong with that engine. you bought a crate engine that used reman'd parts, they arent all going to be perfectly brand new

 

You don't have to go to Lingenfelter Performance Engineering to get crank journals measured. Being in Michigan you should be able to find lots of machine shops to mic your crank. Don't limit your choices to the automotive shops you have trouble trusting. Here in the middle of nowhere western Colorado, there are at least a half dozen industrial shops in addition to mine that have the equipment and know how to measure ODs to less than .00005 inch.

 

You can buy decent Mics and Dial Bore gauges from Summit for about $200.....
It is China.....but they do repeat and I check them periodically.....
A Sunnen dial bore gauge runs about $1500 now but repeats to .0001.....about as thick as the cutting edge of a sharp knife.
Besides....if you mic and set each journal you measure....you are only subtracting the difference....very close.....
Now Warren Johnson would not approve....but it works for the other 99.9% of us....

Jebby

 

Plasti-gage works, and it's only a few dollars.
I've used it a number of times over the years.
Not a starret mic, but it will tell you if something is terribly wrong.

 

shars
https://www.shars.com/0-6-solid-meta...micrometer-set

similar 0.0001" sets on fleabay etc for around $120

I have really hi$ stuff and a set like these ... great Gage R&R ... there is a learning curve for proper gage technique & care.

w/ a outside mic set like those (instead of your $20 caliper) Plus your telescope gages, you can accurately measure about anything you'll DIY at home.

 

Thanks for the ideas! I'll prob get my own tools if I do, that way I can video it. I'm waiting to hear back form Jegs before I decide but I was looking a Fowler mic and considered an ebay dial bore set. From what I can tell, a lot of the cheap Jegs/Summit house brand stuff can be found on ebay even cheaper. Also plastigauge was on the list to compare LOL as mentioned it's a good quick check for problems.

 

The only time I mention numbers on pistons is when I said I tried to look em up as the part number and all 8 are the same! Guess you didn't see the rods!

Heads can be debated as runner size old vs new casting, more work to match but not a deal killer just adds to the list of small issues, if you wanna look at it as a whole.

In the video I say that it's not a new engine but guess you didn't watch it, I usually watch something before I comment.

 

i mentioned the the numbers on the pistons because in your post I originally quoted you said “rusty rods and out of firing order”. I dont know what you mean by out of firing order. Please tell me what you mean.

 

I would install it and buy the gm crate motor if it blows up.
If the $1600 reman lasts 2 years it would still be a reasonable per year parts cost. I think I spend over $800/yr on my classic car parts while just trying to sort out bad bushings, door handles and rubber hoses.
If it blows up in the first few hours of driving it would be pretty disappointing. I guess plasti gauging the main and rod bearings would uncover a guaranteed rod knock.

 

OP's current fresh bore size (likely 4.040" and typical of reman motors) effectively stymies future re-bore/overhaul. Let this be a lesson to those considering some reman options. In and of itself, that likelihood the block isn't a candidate for future overbore is Not an indication of poor quality. Poor choice; maybe. Many reman companies' literature reveals that 0.040" but one must look for it. As much as I'd like to see OP start with New (instead of reman), I do Not think seller is bound to accept a return solely based on an overbore at maximum limit.

Have done a bit of poking around and see many sellers are out of stock of New GM L31 Vortec crate 12530283 / 12681431. Have also noted their price has risen sharply over past few months. Wondering if GM has either suspended or ceased production of L31 Vortec crate 12530283 / 12681431. Just don't KNOW.

AFAIK, typical Vortec x880 blocks typically show little bore wear primarily due their OE FI and OE thin metric ringpak. At the same time, 880's liners are typically much thinner than earlier sbc and often cannot be overbored beyond +0.040". AFAIK, there are little to no +0.050" oversize piston options ... AFAIK, OTS oversizes for sbc are TYPICALLY + 0.020, 0.030, 0.040, 0.060.

Many of us at CF are of an age where the numbers probably don't look so optimistic for a fresh motor's subsequent re-bore; current fresh bores probably last longer than we'll live.

In this matter, and judging by OP's appearance in his Youtube, l suggest his relative youth indicates strong likelihood he could well outlive any fresh bores' service life.

Best OP can hope for is seller accepts return of ATK crate and credits buyer on purchase of another motor; I don't expect that to happen. Instead, perhaps OP should make lemonade. JMO

 

Here's part 4