305 heads on 1978 L-48
Last edited by Astorestia; Dec 19, 2019 at 09:09 PM.
... an effective quench, in and of itself, helps prevent detonation.
AFAIK, they'll bolt up. More compression & more cam is exactly what an L48 needs.
If you swap cam at same time & use a wider duration ... that'll effectively bleed-off a little compression.
From what you've expressed as what you want, seems like it should do it. G'luck
Nothing wrong with swapping heads, some of the head bolts are a pain to get to if the engine stays in the car(I’ve ruined my cam
bearings once swapping cams with the engine in the car). If you’re just looking for 50ish hp, id consider starting with the easy stuff like exhaust and recurving the distributor. If it’s not enough, jump into head and cam swap
Last edited by randallsteel; Dec 19, 2019 at 09:44 PM.
"randallsteel" has it right and that's the way to start, and just do the new cam, (smallish cam), with the heads swap when that time comes.
None of it's that expensive either.
Happy Holidays ! $.02
If you are bucks down.....do these four things:
Install a Comp 268H cam....this cam was designed for low compression 350's in the 80's and it works. Use Elgins "Z-28" valve springs and spring lock retainer kit with new umbrella seals.
Install a 2101 Performer manifold with 1204 Fel pro intake gaskets. This will shave 25 lbs. off the front end and do away with the woeful low rise Q-jet intake. It will compliment the cam nicely.
Install a set of long tube headers and a real 2.5" dual exhaust. H and X pipes help but are an added expense and not too helpful at this level.....use a Magnaflow or Pypes muffler.
Curve the distributor or buy an MSD Ready To Run unit and curve it. Read Lars papers on timing and curves.....E-mail him and he will send them to you. This curve is VERY important to power and overall operation.
This will give a healthy L-48 and pretty huge jump.......you will be at just a touch over 330 horse at this point.....or about 260 at the tire. Now to put that in perspective, that is what a 97 Camaro SS LT1 makes at the tire.....now scorching but good power.....It will run better than an early 350/300.
At this point......if you want heads......install them! You now have a real cam, intake and exhaust to supplement them. Or pocket port the stock heads....but only if they are in pristine condition.....wore out heads are a diminishing return.
Yes the L-48 is a low compression engine, but it responds well to mods. Move on from 305 heads though.
Jebby
Ig you are $ limited do a decent valve job, bowl blends are cheap and the proverbial 256-268 type cams. headers etc.
Last edited by cv67; Dec 20, 2019 at 07:52 PM.
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And most of us know that the factory 2.02 intake valve was worthless on a stock head....GM never did a decent valve job or open the throat....very little actual gain....
Yes....real heads are the answer but not everyone has the budget....
Jebby
Flip side, you definitely will not lose power, so if they are really cheap and good shape, I’d do it.
I think we’d all appreciate hearing the results
Do not waste your time.....
DO do the four things I mentioned.....intake, headers, cam, curve.....
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Dec 21, 2019 at 09:03 AM.
Last edited by slammin; Dec 21, 2019 at 09:19 AM.
Lotsa 305 heads have teeny 1.76" intakes, but not all. Those x416 L69 305 HO heads probably have 1.84" intakes, not 1.76" ... 0.100" smaller than L48's 1.94" intakes.
If HO heads are really cheap, do it.
You Must ensure spring setup can handle whatever lift you choose. I would stay below .480" lift as the heads won't perform above that anyway. I would install New springs.
That 268H cam is a good suggestion but Summit's cam & lifter kit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...make/chevrolet compares favorably and actually has ramps a bit more gentle and much easier price (K00172 cam+lifter KIT $143).
Unless you've recently changed timing set, you should get a new set as well ... for this, spend no more than $35 on name brand set. Plus New cover seal & gasket.
Unless you've recently changed damper, you should FIRST assure it's still good by verifying Zero groove on damper aligns with timing tab Zero when #1 PISTON is at True TDC ...
... But If you do need a New damper, for this you Don't need one for a race car ... replacement grade such as Pioneer is fine.
They also offer 50cc chamber S2s
http://www.pbm-erson.com/UserFiles/D...eb-version.pdf
http://www.pbm-erson.com/catalog/world-products
I had a set of WP S2s ... those were good heads























