Hey everyone,

First post here. I'm seeking advise on some rot I discovered around the #3 body mounts and was hoping those of you with some more experience could help out.

I took a few pictures from different angles on both sides. If different views are needed just let me know. The driver side #3 mount looks to be pretty bad. Passenger side is also pretty rusty but doesn't look quite as rough.


Driver side #3 angle 1


Driver side #3 angle 2

Driver side #3 angle 3

Passenger side #3

Passenger side #3 angle 2

Unfortunately I was not aware of the birdcage/body mount rot issues that are so common in these cars when I purchased it. I have not removed the windshield trim to inspect the windshield frame, however I did remove the kick panels to inspect the #2 mounts and they look to be okay to me. I was honestly expecting worse after first seeing the driver side #3 mount. It appears the #2 mount areas may have been treated/painted at some point? I'm hoping that's not covering up another problem. Both sides have a piece of flashing riveted to the cage (better seen in the passenger side image) so it was hard for me to look upwards to see if there was any concerns up higher. Is this flashing normal? I can't recall seeing it in any other pictures I've come across.


Driver side #2

Passenger side #2

I'm no expert on this, so I would appreciate any feedback I can get here. Am I looking at a major birdcage repair/replacement in this case? Do I have any other options?

 

Ok it looks like you will need to separate the body from the frame to get to that section of birdcage to weld in a repair patch. You will need to soak all the birdcage attach bolts with penetrating oil well before hand and hope all the bolts come out. I would screw them in and out as you try to remove. Hope some body else can give you better advice but I see no other way. You can loosen of all the bolts and then remove the bolts from just one side and jack that side and lift the body off the frame. Maybe you can then get sufficient clearance to weld in a repair I don’t know. You can then replace all the bolts with new and install new body mount bushings.


Here is the #3 drivers side with the body raised about 4” off the frame, not much space to work in.

 

I agree with the above. Also, it looks like someone did some work on the trailing arms and did not replace the carter pins on the pivot bolts. You do not want that bolt to come lose or fall out. Jerry

 

I was thinking more about your problem and really I only gave you half an answer. Presuming that you are mechanically minded and can do this yourself, I would very carefully cut the SMC body that covers over that area of birdcage and using a heat gun warm it sufficient to soften the bond and remove it. I think that is the only way to get to that area to weld successfully. Once the bird cage is welded up and repaired you could then bond the removed section back into place. I use Plexus to bond SMC as it produces a bonded joint stronger than the surrounding structure but each to his own and it is expensive at $25 tube. While you have the body up you can wire brush everything off and coat with POR15. If you have a shop do this for you then be prepared as the cost could be rather high. Good luck
Pete

 

Those #3s look pretty bad as you can see straight down to the ground on the one side.

As stated above your best bet is to dig a lil and at least take off one of the rear wheel quarter panel splash shields with a heat gun and putty knife so you can get in and look a the worst one.

To have a shop do this is very expensive never mind if you can find one competent to do it.

The metal going higher up the sides of the #3 mount is generally good. You wanna get rid of the rot and weld to good steel. The inner mount and the rocker itself appear to be shot from what I can see in your pics.

I wound up doin the full rockers and both #2 and #3 inserts on mine.

ill show you the two pics i could find of the #3 trial fits after I had cut out patched up the bad metal so you can see what your up against in at least the #3 area. Keep in mind my body was off.


trial fit1

trial fit1.1

What i found in my #3

 

here's a pic of that splash panel removed , I used a heat gun and a scraper to get it off .
Ignore the dog leg broken off , you don't need to mess with it , I did that as guard was coming off anyway.

 

this brings back memorys i somehow forgot
yea i did both rocker channels and the inserts, my number 3s looked the the OP's .the inserts fit horrible, after fighting the first the second i cut up and rebent, then welded, then welded into the number 3 mount. fit OK after that, it wasnt a horrible job to do, body came off. just a bit of grinding and welding.

 

I have to do mine, looking through the inspection cover the metal on the rest of the frame looks good.
I was wondering how to get the mounting bracket in there, the idea of the heat gun, putty knife to remove the
inner splash guard section sounds good. (I did not like the idea of chopping it out & patching it up.)


It looks like you do not cut anything?
You unstick, remove the lower part & just re bond it?

Or am I missing something?

 

I too have been through this process. I was a novice when I started with no welder or experience in body of fiberglass work. This forum and youtube are your friends. Take the body off the frame. There are many articles here on how to do that and how to build a rack to hold the body. I built a gantry out of 2x6 boards and used a chain pull to take the body off. You will need the lift straps needed to pull the body. I suspect you are going to find a number of areas that need attention. I started on a 72, took the body off, separated the fire wall so I could get to the birdcage. Bought a welder off Craigslist and practiced. Got used rockers off ebay so didn't deal with after market rockers. Bought new windshield frame corners that many of the vendors sell. Welded the pieces in and since my welds were amatuerish got a harbor freight grinder and made everything look smooth. I used the Eastwood rust encapsulator on the frame and birdcage but have also used POR15 and like them both. Fixed the body mount areas just like you have. Had to cut the mount bolts since thy were rust frozen (same with the trailing arm bolts). Since I am a glutton for punishment I had acquired a 73 t-top I was going to use as a parts car for the 72 but decided it was too nice to waste. So now that body is off and I am currently in the process of using the heat gun and putty knife technique to remove the various fiberglass pieces around the birdcage and rockers. Basically, if I can do this you can do this. Take alot of pictures. Ask questions here. Once you start do not stop otherwise it will never get done. It is a big commitment but really rewarding.

 

Option #1 - Pull the body and fix the mounts.
Option #2 - Put the #3 mount covers back on the car and drive it as-is.

Depending on the year of the car and other particulars I would lean towards option #2.

 

Hey "Mr D"..........

That is one of the most least constructive, rude, useless post I have ever seen on a forum.

I am in Australia, over here, these days, my well optioned, matching numbers convertible is worth around $50,000.

Even if the body has to come off, it is getting fixed.

Lucky most of the members on the forum are more polite, helpful & respectful.

 

I tried this with a heat gun couldn't manage to get it off. How did you do it? Are there any rivets as well?

 

Yes , there was a couple of large pop rivets along the top , they go into that steel.

 

Hey Bazza, I would like to thank you for your help here,

it was not easy to get all this apart but we got the job done.

 

Did you manage to remove the panel and sort the rot?
I am still fighting with the panel and that old bonding/adhesive with the heat gun.

 

Yes, I got it all apart but it took a bit of force because that bonding stuff is quite strong,

then a friend of my son is a good welder and he welded the repair section in for me.

 

Great to hear that. I am afraid of braking the fiberglass as there are so many edges there.
Can you share some pictures of the process/work?

 

Sorry, no pictures, it was a long time ago.

To be honest it was a horrible job,

I had a fair bit of trouble separating everything but it was a job that needed to be done

& I was a bit forceful with it in some parts to get it done, having the attitude that I could patch up any damage

in fiberglass if needed afterwards & that it was not in an area that is really noticeable

but as I said, that section had to be removed to get behind for the metal repair.

I did not need to patch anything in the end,

I got it all apart all be it I was rough with it but we did a good solid repair on the mounting & the car is now safe.