engine rebuild recomendations
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 21
From: centennial colorado
engine rebuild recomendations
I am having the 350 in my 72 rebuilt . I plan on having the CR raised from 8.5-1 up to 9.5-1 with flat top pistons, deck the block etc. New mild cam, stock heads with new valves, guides, rockers, pushrods etc. I'm not after maximum power just want to help it a little. What other recommendations would you give? Keeping it mostly stock looking. Any advice while I'm at it? It will be blueprinted and rebalanced.
Is my vette stock?? HAHA
Joined: Oct 2015
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From: Im not allowed to tell you
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
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Aluminum heads. If you want the EXACT same look , they make camel hump aluminum heads now, then paint them otherwise get AFR, Hekemian, or something similar. The most important part of an engine is its ability to breathe. Efficiency is the key to cheap power. It will make everything better. Engine builders did a show where they just ported a set of stock chrysler heads and gained 90 HP
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Feb 15, 2020 at 08:28 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
OP
The following applies if you Are reusing/rebuilding OE Iron heads
Unless you Have to, don't deck block.
Do ensure the rebuilder uses pistons with compression height = 1.560" (stock height)... This will put pistons 0.025" Below stock deck ... Don't use the shorter budget rebuilder pistons ...
Have the rebuilder check the heads for straightness and, if Needed, have the heads surfaced. Each 0.006" milled from head Reduces chamber by approx One cc.
Do ensure rebuilder uses a thin shim (0.015") head gasket e.g. Fel-Pro 7733 SH-1
*stock uncut deck with 1.560" pistons with 0.015" gasket yields Ideal Quench of approx 0.040"
The following applies if you Are reusing/rebuilding OE Iron heads
Unless you Have to, don't deck block.
Do ensure the rebuilder uses pistons with compression height = 1.560" (stock height)... This will put pistons 0.025" Below stock deck ... Don't use the shorter budget rebuilder pistons ...
Have the rebuilder check the heads for straightness and, if Needed, have the heads surfaced. Each 0.006" milled from head Reduces chamber by approx One cc.
Do ensure rebuilder uses a thin shim (0.015") head gasket e.g. Fel-Pro 7733 SH-1
*stock uncut deck with 1.560" pistons with 0.015" gasket yields Ideal Quench of approx 0.040"
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 21
From: centennial colorado
I believe its a factory replacement block. The suffix code is CEC and the last 6 from the vin are not there. The car was built in august 1971 and the date cast on the block is December 1971.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Plenty of shops these days can deck it with a CNC program and save the almighty numbers
Or just take a pic of them, theres your proof. If that isnt good enough for some guy down the road he didnt want it in the first place?
Deck it and do things right. They are usually off from the factory plus 50 yrs of heat cycling
Or just take a pic of them, theres your proof. If that isnt good enough for some guy down the road he didnt want it in the first place?
Deck it and do things right. They are usually off from the factory plus 50 yrs of heat cycling
Last edited by cv67; Feb 15, 2020 at 06:11 PM.
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,097
Likes: 4,027
From: New Braunfels Texas
I have yet in 25 years seen a factory GM block that came in 9.020 deck height. They are ALL like 9.010 or 9.015........just have it decked and be done with it. Those .015 gaskets are great but don't ever use them with aluminum heads.
I read some crap on Skip Whites ad for his engines that say it compromises deck strength.....bullshit. He just doesn't want to spend the extra labor to make more passes on the cutter.
Anyway.......there are just SO many ways to go.......too many to list......
The biggest question right now are:
How much power do you want? (Do you think a 13-14 second car is fast? Is that good enough?)
Are you keeping the stock hood?
What is your budget?
Jebby
I read some crap on Skip Whites ad for his engines that say it compromises deck strength.....bullshit. He just doesn't want to spend the extra labor to make more passes on the cutter.
Anyway.......there are just SO many ways to go.......too many to list......
The biggest question right now are:
How much power do you want? (Do you think a 13-14 second car is fast? Is that good enough?)
Are you keeping the stock hood?
What is your budget?
Jebby
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,403
Likes: 95
Were me with any factory used block no matter if the machine shop says the mains are in spec have them line hone your block regardless if you just want to go back with main caps or studs and the only good way to make easy power is buy the best aftermarket head your wallet will allow. On mild cams hydraulic roller cams other then extra lift and less worry if a flat tappet going bad they just dont make any more power then a good modern flat tappet, only when you go up on duration are they a bigger help. In fact up to 280 duration seat to seat flat tappet are an advantage. Lots of people that had old as dirt tech flat tappet cams from 1960s design throw in a modern hydraulic roller at huge expense and of course there is a real difference but that's not the case compared to modern flat tappet cams.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 21
From: centennial colorado
I have yet in 25 years seen a factory GM block that came in 9.020 deck height. They are ALL like 9.010 or 9.015........just have it decked and be done with it. Those .015 gaskets are great but don't ever use them with aluminum heads.
I read some crap on Skip Whites ad for his engines that say it compromises deck strength.....bullshit. He just doesn't want to spend the extra labor to make more passes on the cutter.
Anyway.......there are just SO many ways to go.......too many to list......
The biggest question right now are:
How much power do you want? (Do you think a 13-14 second car is fast? Is that good enough?)
Are you keeping the stock hood?
What is your budget?
Jebby
I read some crap on Skip Whites ad for his engines that say it compromises deck strength.....bullshit. He just doesn't want to spend the extra labor to make more passes on the cutter.
Anyway.......there are just SO many ways to go.......too many to list......
The biggest question right now are:
How much power do you want? (Do you think a 13-14 second car is fast? Is that good enough?)
Are you keeping the stock hood?
What is your budget?
Jebby
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
I don't see the necessity of milling the deck unless its a all out racing engine or the deck is so far out of whack that its warrantable. You may end up with mismatched Intake fitment, a quench that is unreasonable and you may have to purchase shorter pushrods.
That extra machinery fees could be better spent elsewhere. But its not my money, not my business. Just saying that block milling, align boring, etc is all "Blue Print" strategy. And I don't believe that's the road you are intending to go down.
That extra machinery fees could be better spent elsewhere. But its not my money, not my business. Just saying that block milling, align boring, etc is all "Blue Print" strategy. And I don't believe that's the road you are intending to go down.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Feb 15, 2020 at 08:11 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
I have yet in 25 years seen a factory GM block that came in 9.020 deck height. They are ALL like 9.010 or 9.015........just have it decked and be done with it. Those .015 gaskets are great but don't ever use them with aluminum heads.
I read some crap on Skip Whites ad for his engines that say it compromises deck strength.....bullshit. He just doesn't want to spend the extra labor to make more passes on the cutter.
Anyway.......there are just SO many ways to go.......too many to list......
The biggest question right now are:
How much power do you want? (Do you think a 13-14 second car is fast? Is that good enough?)
Are you keeping the stock hood?
What is your budget?
Jebby
I read some crap on Skip Whites ad for his engines that say it compromises deck strength.....bullshit. He just doesn't want to spend the extra labor to make more passes on the cutter.
Anyway.......there are just SO many ways to go.......too many to list......
The biggest question right now are:
How much power do you want? (Do you think a 13-14 second car is fast? Is that good enough?)
Are you keeping the stock hood?
What is your budget?
Jebby
So, since a quarter-century experience seems important ... I've been doing this for a while as well ...
... from some of your post's age disclosures, it seems more than a few of us here belong to your late father's generation.
So, in addition to sob, just call me old sob / old fencepost.
FWIW, the OP writes he's 'not after max power & just wants to help it a little.'
I've observed many such milder motor expectations here ,,, quite often they're met here with performance suggestions far in excess of OP's stated goals.
It's all too easy to spend another's money.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 21
From: centennial colorado
Yea, I think decking the block is probably not required here. My engine builder is a trusted friend who has been building stock and performance engines for 40+ years for some of the best engine shops around. I'll have him check it to be sure its flat then proceed from there.
I'm using the stock exhaust manifolds as well so I can only help it so much. I'm just a cruiser so not worried about 1/4 mile stats.
I'm using the stock exhaust manifolds as well so I can only help it so much. I'm just a cruiser so not worried about 1/4 mile stats.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 7,511
Likes: 1,519
From: Little Rock AR
Because of the use of cast iron manifolds, mufflers and stock heads I would look for a modest cam with low overlap and a bigger exhaust event/ smaller intake event pattern. These restrictions would lead me to find a cam to match that. You will probably get a smoother idle and better street manners as a bonus. The C/R will probably work fine as long as the dynamic compression ratio (intake valve closing point) is matched to it. RPM range and gearing are a factor as well.
The roller cam swap is desirable for a number of valid reasons but the cost is rather high. Flat tappets can get this job done with much more modest parts. Just a money call for you to make there.
My opinion is leave the deck alone unless you can see surface damage or warpage with a feeler gauge and a straight edge. Same with the heads surface. I would need to see more than .004" warp across the heads before considering a cut.
The roller cam swap is desirable for a number of valid reasons but the cost is rather high. Flat tappets can get this job done with much more modest parts. Just a money call for you to make there.
My opinion is leave the deck alone unless you can see surface damage or warpage with a feeler gauge and a straight edge. Same with the heads surface. I would need to see more than .004" warp across the heads before considering a cut.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,098
Likes: 378
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
It's a small block Chevy and the combinations are endless. Only you can decide on what parts to use and how much to spend. So as far as performance it's a function of cubic inches (bore and stroke), heads, cam , compression and how well they compliment each other.
So if/once you have some specific questions on parts we could be more helpful.
Good luck.
So if/once you have some specific questions on parts we could be more helpful.
Good luck.