I'm interested in removing the power steering from my 78. I've read between the lines but I'd like to hear from people with more experience.

The pitman arms are different but it appears the power arm would work for manual just not the other way around. It doesn't appear the difference is related to length or mechanical advantage, just for clearance of the power steering valve.

The drag link is different obviously because the manual link doesn't have the attachment point for the ram and the valve but there is a replacement/conversion end that eliminates the valve available for 100 bucks.

I want the car to steer as if it were a factory manual car so I will attempt to drill new tie rod holes in my spindles but that could be a challange. If I screw it up I'll have to replace spindle or live with harder steering by using the power steering holes.

anyone with experience please advise if I'm missing anything or have something wrong. Please dont bother comments on whether you think I'll be happy with manual steering.
Cheers
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Your steering knuckles are removable you should be able to use the existing holes that are in them. You should use a manual pitman arm. And yes either get the conversion for draglink or buy manual one

 

I see what I think you're saying about the "knuckle" being removable from the spindle but my car being a 78 only has one set of holes. It does have the extra material to allow drilling for the manual position. It's hard to believe one inch would make a big difference but I'd bet it does. Can you tell me why the manual pitman arm should be used? I know going from manual to power requires the change for clearance of the valve but the other way around? Thanks for the reply I hope to get this sorted. In a perfect world someone on here would want to change manual to power and we could just swap parts

 

My car hass manual steering and when i got it 40 years ago i moved the tie rod ends to the hole in the knucklee that provides faster steering response which makes it only a very little harder to steer. i think this hole is located in the same position as the power steering hole. i would just convert to manual and drive it the way it is. i do not believe you will have a problem.

 

More leverage for non-power steering.

 

That's what I assumed until I viewed photos of them side by each. No apparent difference I length just a curve to clear the valve.

 

So not positive you can't run your pitman. But you can use the holes that are in you knuckles they are the ones used in manual steering. I have manual on my 64 and the inside holes are correct. I tried the outer ones on a 66 that I had not good

 

It seems that once power steering became standard they stopped drilling the outer holes for manual steering. I assume you have power assist since you're using the inner holes?

 

No it is a stock manual steering car outer holes are not used. This is how it comes from the factory. They quite drilling the outer holes because they are not necessary

 

Oh wow that's interesting. Yeah that's not what I was expecting. I know this is subjective but does your car steer well?

 

Yes very well I also have a 72 with factory manual it's even better but not sure why. Could be just a tighter box

 

I have a factory non PS car. When I rebuilt the front suspension I moved the Tie rod ends to the fast setting holes. It didn't make that much difference in steering effort.

 

Fast setting holes....ok which ones?
was your car also set at inside holes from factory?

 

Until the 1977 model year, tie rods on manual steering cars were located in the rearward hole positions. Not sure what you're basing your information on.

 

I have a non- power steering relay rod off my 71- that I converted to Rack and Pinion. Shoot me an email "richard454 at comcast dot net" if interested

And yes the pitman arms are different- see below



MANUAL

power steering

 

I switched my 77 from power to manual steering, and it is one of the best things I did to the car. Before, even with all rebuilt components, there was too much center play, and the car drove badly in the twisties. You were constantly over-compensating, and it was NOT how a Corvette should drive. NOW, with factory manual steering, it drives like a sports car should. I love it. And realize this, a 77 does NOT have the hole in the spindle arm the 76 and prior manual steering cars used......so, my car has the steering arms mounted in the power steering hole. Secondly, the 77 steering wheel diameter is less than 76 and prior steering wheels, which also means less leverage. So, my point, to your question, even with these facts, the car drives fantastic and the force required to drive the car is surprisingly minimal, at speed. I will admit that in the parking lot, going less than 5 mph, tight turns require force that most people today are not used to, but its completely within reason. Its just harder than most are used to. You learn technique that modern drivers never learned, and that is to turn while in motion,.....don't sit still and try to turn the wheel. But don't let that discourage you or stop you, its completely within reason and you will be surprised. Frankly, going down the road at 50 mph, I can drive the car with my fingertips. Really.

 

Thanks flyboy1958. When you did the conversion did you change the pitman arm and the drag link or just use the drag link adapter. As for tie rod position, I'll probably try drilling the manual position holes anyway, if I screw them up I'll just cut off the extra metal and try it in ps holes like you are using. If I still dont like it I'll change them out.

 

My non PS car had the tie rods set at the rear(slow) holes. I moved them to the front (fast) holes to get quicker steering (at the expense of more steering effort)

 

Yes, I changed the drag link and pitman arm to the factory manual parts, which are fairly available on Ebay, this forum classified, and parts vendors. My setup is all factory manual steering parts, with the exception that I did not change the steering arms to have that "manual" steering hole. Interesting, if you read the Corvette Shop Manual, the language on which steering hole to use for a manual steering car is based on whether you want the quicker steering ratio or standard ratio.....whereas, with power steering, the factory decided the quicker steering ratio would be the only option. I could have bought manual steering arms, but after I tried it in the power steering hole, I saw no reason, and still see no reason to bother. I think most would prefer the quicker steering ratio, with power or without. Its part of having the car handle like we all should want. I cannot tell you how much more fun the car is to drive now with manual steering. You move the wheel and the car responds.....no freeplay or lag. The added and very significant benefit, is that ALL the power steering parts, including the problematic / forever leaking cylinder, all get removed....so no pump, no belts, no fluids, no steering cylinder......all gone and sold.

On the same note, this winter I removed the power brakes, and have installed factory manual brakes. Many of those who prefer manual steering, have the same feelings about the brakes. There is a more direct, connected feeling to the braking action, just as there is in the steering. In my opinion, those who argue for power steering and brakes, are owners who are not looking for a true handling and performance, they just enjoy owning Corvettes and they are not concerned about sports car performance. For me, I not only love the looks of the car, I want the driving experience to be special, something different than my wife's Camry, or my F150. So, with the steering and brake mods, as well as the 406 stroker that is also going into the car in the next few weeks, my car is definitely "special" to me, and will be a very different and fun car to drive.

And I will say again, the actual force on the steering wheel it takes to drive a C3 Corvette with manual steering is almost unnoticeable. I was frankly shocked after I made the conversion how easy it was.

 

I converted my 80 to manual. I used a 68 center link that has the extra hole for the steering damper (and came with the damper, still unused), and the proper manual Pitman arm. I only have the inner holes on the steering arms, and also have a bunch of extra caster with SPC upper control arms. I bought an extra steering box from the Forum specifically to send to @GTR1999 to rebuild. As noted, it is tough to park, but great to drive, and that's the point. I look for drive-thru spots at the edge of the lot, or back into spots.

Don't skip arm-day!

I won't say that, though, but you can dial-in the caster to get the feel you want.