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5yrs ago I installed O-Ring style calipers on all 4 wheels because I was having issues with leaks AND air pumping due to excess runout while on the highway. They've been great, but while doing my spring maintenance check I found the LF caliper is leaking after only 5yrs. Closer inspection found the leak is definitely from the seam between the caliper halves (specifically the top seam). The leak definitely starts there and runs down, so everything else is a little wet, but from what I can tell the pistons ARE NOT leaking. The calipers are SS sleeved as well.
My question is, should I keep bothering with the stock style calipers or upgrade to some Wilwood D8s? To my understanding the repair for this would just be split the two halves, replace the O-ring seals and retorque? Any advice on whether it's worth trying to keep chasing this vs spending the $650 to get some more reliable calipers? I just hate replacing them after having replaced them not long ago.
Have you tried re torquing the bolts in place?
It's easy and cheap to replace the O rings. This is generally not a problem area unless you have some major corrosion or a crack, etc.
Have you tried re torquing the bolts in place?
It's easy and cheap to replace the O rings. This is generally not a problem area unless you have some major corrosion or a crack, etc.
I haven't yet, but I was going to try that. Its a decent leak though, so I'm not overly confident it'll work. I guess it's worth a shot though.
To give you a picture, I cleaned up the caliper of residual fluid. I then got in the car and applied the brakes with a steady pressure. You could very gradually feel the pedal going down. Got out and there was about a 2" puddle on the floor and clear leak from the seam. That's how much it's leaking
I really need a heated garage! I think the hot/cold cycles of New England weather is causing a LOT of my problems.
Last edited by 80vette21; Apr 6, 2020 at 12:30 PM.
My SS VBP LIP SEAL (not O rings) calipers are still perfect after a LONG TIME. Installed by me in 1985! There you go!
If wheel runout is correct, you do NOT need O ring sealed calipers............O ring calipers are generally a bandaid for other issues with the brake system and were developed to get around fixing the other issues, if not too major a problem.....
I would get Wilwoods calipers if you can't fix your current brake issues with the current calipers or you race your car. I would consider wilwoods 6 piston front caliper if I was going to a larger 13/14 inch rotor.
My SS VBP LIP SEAL (not O rings) calipers are still perfect after a LONG TIME. Installed by me in 1985! There you go!
If wheel runout is correct, you do NOT need O ring sealed calipers............O ring calipers are generally a bandaid for other issues with the brake system and were developed to get around fixing the other issues, if not too major a problem.....
I would get Wilwoods calipers if you can't fix your current brake issues with the current calipers or you race your car. I would consider wilwoods 6 piston front caliper if I was going to a larger 13/14 inch rotor.
Just my 2 cents.
I've never actually measured the runout, but I'm thinking about getting an indicator and doing it.
I checked the torque on the bolts holding the two halves together and they were correct, so I'm going to have to try replacing the O-rings. I have SS braided lines which you obviously can't clamp when pulling the caliper. Do you know if they have anything to cap the line off to keep it from bleeding down the MC?
The best maintenance for the C3 brake system is to change the brake fluid every 4-5 years max. There is no other explanation for my C3 SS lip seal calipers still operating flawlessly for 35 years now.............
I just found the same leak today on both my fronts. In my case the leak is on the caliper half with the flat face. The area around the O ring is that rusted that the O ring won't seal. I spent about 2 hours stoning the pits out of one of them today. I'll do the other and see if they leak tomorrow.
In my opinion, if the caliper is sleeved and in good condition I'd just fix the leak.
Do you know if they have anything to cap the line off to keep it from bleeding down the MC?
On my steel line with a rubber hose, I have to disconnect the steel line from the hose. I take a piece of vacuum hose and push it over the steel line. I clamp the vacuum hose with a vise grips.
I fought brake issues for a long time, including leaking calipers and air pumping due to runout. I gave in and bought a Wilwood set up with rotors and after 2 years I haven't touched my braking system.
I just found the same leak today on both my fronts. In my case the leak is on the caliper half with the flat face. The area around the O ring is that rusted that the O ring won't seal. I spent about 2 hours stoning the pits out of one of them today. I'll do the other and see if they leak tomorrow.
I was wrong. The leak was a piston seal. The fluid ran behind the steel plate of the brake pad and rolled down through the joint.
I was wrong. The leak was a piston seal. The fluid ran behind the steel plate of the brake pad and rolled down through the joint.
Yeah, apparently the seam isn't a very common spot for a leak I even double checked though by having my wife apply the brakes while I watched, and you could see it bubbling right out of the seam. I'll update once I open it up... I'm ordering the parts from Willcox tonight.....along with my new core support that I'll be tackling soon
Yeah, apparently the seam isn't a very common spot for a leak I even double checked though by having my wife apply the brakes while I watched, and you could see it bubbling right out of the seam. I'll update once I open it up... I'm ordering the parts from Willcox tonight.....along with my new core support that I'll be tackling soon
To find the leak, I removed the caliper but left the hose on. I cut a 6" piece of 2x4 to 2" thick and put it between the pistons. I had my wife pump the brakes. The leak was easy to see. Did you check the caliper to see why the seam is leaking? Mine was pitted badly.
To find the leak, I removed the caliper but left the hose on. I cut a 6" piece of 2x4 to 2" thick and put it between the pistons. I had my wife pump the brakes. The leak was easy to see. Did you check the caliper to see why the seam is leaking? Mine was pitted badly.
I haven't yet, I just ordered the seal kit and will pull the caliper apart once it gets here. There only 5yrs old, so hopefully it isn't badly pitted... unless it was a shotty rebuild by VBanP. If that's the case it will be getting Wilwoods. I'll update the thread once the parts are here. I also ordered a new core support and will be putting that in.
I got around to opening up the caliper and found some interesting stuff. The recesses for the o-rings between the two caliper halves are different depths. The UPPER o-ring, which is the seam that was leaking, has a deep recess for the o-ring. The LOWER o-ring has a much more shallow recess. The o-ring in the lower recess was completely flattened, but this may be by design as there was no leak here. The upper o-ring in the deeper recess is the one that was leaking. I'm wondering if maybe the o-ring being set so deep in was keeping it from properly sealing??
Here are some pictures:
Upper recess. This is the source of the leak, as you can see by the peeling paint.
Lower recess. This had the completely flattened o-ring, it was definitely sealed.
Unless someone tells me other ways, I would say these were poorly machined when they were rebuilt? They were rebuilds from VBandP 5yrs ago. I got the rebuild kit to fix the leak, but seeing them now I think I'm just going to go with some Wilwoods and be done with. I'm sick of constantly dealing with the various issues with the factory style calipers. I'm going to do some research and either do the 6 piston D8 style direct replacement, or a big brake kit.
I agree , that combined depth of machined flat areas for the small O ring looks to be too deep . the O ring supplied just wouldn't work in there , One way to try is a wider O ring ?
I agree , that combined depth of machined flat areas for the small O ring looks to be too deep . the O ring supplied just wouldn't work in there , One way to try is a wider O ring ?
Yeah, I could try that, but I just don't want to keep chasing my tail with these. The leak destroyed the paint, which I'm pretty sure was supposed to be powdercoat, so at this point they need to be stripped and redone or they're just going to look like crap. And then it still might wind up leaking. It's worth the $800 to get 6 piston, powdercoated Wilwoods that will probably never be a problem again lol
Crappy quality on VBandP's part...too bad theyre out of business
Last edited by 80vette21; Apr 26, 2020 at 07:54 PM.
Yeah, I could try that, but I just don't want to keep chasing my tail with these. The leak destroyed the paint, which I'm pretty sure was supposed to be powdercoat, so at this point they need to be stripped and redone or they're just going to look like crap. And then it still might wind up leaking. It's worth the $800 to get 6 piston, powdercoated Wilwoods that will probably never be a problem again lol
Crappy quality on VBandP's part...too bad theyre out of business
Is that the 6 piston calipers that still use the standard (size) disc ? or are you talking going to bigger disc as well?
Or spending more and doing the full big brake kit with bigger rotors. I like the big brake kit with the aluminum hub, I would assume that would mean no more setting runout? But, I'm probably leaning more towards the direct replacement 6 piston calipers and just sticking with the rotors I have. I already have Wilwood drilled/slotted rotors.
EDIT:
Wound up going with the Wilwood D8 4 piston calipers for the front. Just ordered them, along with my new tubular a-arms and coilovers from Vansteel
Last edited by 80vette21; Apr 27, 2020 at 03:48 PM.
Calipers - repair or replace?
I even double checked though by having my wife apply the brakes while I watched, and you could see it bubbling right out of the seam. I'll update once I open it up... I'm ordering the parts from Willcox tonight.....along with my new core support that I'll be tackling soon 
