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LS3 conversion - Mounting ECU

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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 10:28 AM
  #21  
vette427-sbc's Avatar
vette427-sbc
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Originally Posted by ScottEwine
It will be tight to get to but the heater box still comes off and you can reach everything, may need a mirror to see some of it. I did install the fused that glow when the blow so that will make it easier to find them if needed.
Please take this as constructive criticism, but why knowingly build a non-serviceable system? Using an inspection mirror to check for blown fuses?? Youve got a blank slate to design something that could potentially be easily accessed and less prone to problems. Also, if youre not using skirted (weatherproof) relays, mount them vertically so that moisture doesnt collect in them. Wires or harnesses that are forced to rest against a piece of non-isolated metal WILL rub through. Chasing electrical problems is easy, only when you can confidently rule out the construction of the system. If you have to question your connections, chaffing, grounding, etc it will drive you insane.
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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 10:59 AM
  #22  
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ScottEwine
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I took a little time this morning for another welding project to make my bracket removable. Scott




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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 11:04 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by vette427-sbc
Please take this as constructive criticism, but why knowingly build a non-serviceable system? Using an inspection mirror to check for blown fuses?? Youve got a blank slate to design something that could potentially be easily accessed and less prone to problems. Also, if youre not using skirted (weatherproof) relays, mount them vertically so that moisture doesnt collect in them. Wires or harnesses that are forced to rest against a piece of non-isolated metal WILL rub through. Chasing electrical problems is easy, only when you can confidently rule out the construction of the system. If you have to question your connections, chaffing, grounding, etc it will drive you insane.
I'm with Chris-

I'm just going to toss out another issue I see- constructive criticism

The wire you use under the hood should be sxl type-

"SXL wire has a thick wall cross-linked insulation and is a durable special purpose automotive wire designed for use in engine compartments and other higher temperature applications. SXL wire withstands exposure to temperatures of up to 257°F (125°C). Compared to our standard automotive wire, the polyethylene insulation of our SXL wire has been heat treated creating a cross-linking structure in its molecules. This process produces an tougher insulation with excellent resistance to abrasion, higher temperatures, moisture, oil, grease, gasoline, and other damaging solvents."

Automotive wire has a rating of 176°F- not a good idea near the exhaust.

Summit racing sells it- as do many others. Cost more but will save you headaches down the road...

Richard
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