When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just received my new lower valance this afternoon and have spent the evening fitting it, drilling mounting holes, shaving off material here and there to make it fit better, etc... I will prime it tomorrow and paint it.
The picture I was looking at in my AIM is a few pages after the one you posted. My new valance actually has indented sections where those two large bolt holes go so you can service them, but as we have decided, they are not used in a 1980-82 application.
I would advise you to use the lower valance. It completes the look of the front. I never really noticed it's absence until I was fitting my new one, and it really does finish the front end when you add the lower air dam pieces. Also, without the lower valance I noticed that the fender flares that connect to the lower valance were sagging a good 1" below where they should be because there wasn't anything solid holding them in place. With the valance and air dams mounted, it gently pulls them tighter to the body and they no longer are "flappy."
Reproduction lower valance panels aren't drilled for mounting screws yet, so you can mount your using the holes that are already drilled in the core support. As I was fitting my valance I think it is super important to make sure that it is firmly mounted to the core support, so I do think you should drill a couple more holes. I guess you could just use self tapping screws.
The "hook" that comes down in the front to keep the valance from sagging while driving at speed is broken off on my car. I am planning on using a spring, and connecting it to the valance to prevent that rather than have a new hook welded on. At least with the spring, if I do hit anything there isn't a metal bracket hanging down to break...
It is going to storm down here in Georgia all tomorrow, but if you want me to get in, around, and under my '80 to get any pictures for you I can do that.
Awesome info, thanks!
So are you going to drill holes in the valance to use those two large welded nuts on the core support? I need a new valance anyways, mine is cracked pretty good. I think using the two weld nuts and then maybe some additional self tappers like you said would be a solid idea. My hook is broken off in the front as well. The spring seems like a good idea, but do you think you'll get flapping at all? I'd love to see the setup you come up with, I may go the same route. I do agree with needing the valance for aesthetics to keep the front spoilers.
If you could get some pictures of the mounting points for your core support, specifically how the lower side bolts are mounted, that would be a HUGE help! My lower bolts are both broken and I can't really tell exactly how off they are. Here's what I'm talking about:
Driver's side lower bolt:
Passenger's side:
Specifically how the hinge/support reinforcements are oriented if possible, because I think mine may be shifted which also might affect how the core support sits. On the driver side the lower bolt hole in the reinforcement seems to line up with the hole in the frame, but on the passenger side it looks like its a lot lower.
Last edited by 80vette21; Apr 18, 2020 at 09:58 PM.
Hopefully these will help some. This is a GM NOS lower valance/air dam. Also shown are the left and right 6 mounting bolts. The hood hinge support brackets go only one way, they are made left and right. Something to think about is putting the bracket back on that supports the valance/air dam. Remember that air is going to be trying to forcing it down as you go down the road at speed. Definitely don't run your car without one as it is critical for cooling at speed. Otherwise you may have overheating issues.
Lower radiator core bolt
Drivers side
Passenger side
Top of valance
Bottom side showing the mounting holes
Last edited by MattoonVette; Apr 18, 2020 at 11:41 PM.
I have heard that the aftermarket fiberglass lower valance panels are less likely to deflect downward at speed as long as they are firmly mounted. I am going to try to see what I can fab up a bracket/brace, or get one welded.
I have heard that the aftermarket fiberglass lower valance panels are less likely to deflect downward at speed as long as they are firmly mounted. I am going to try to see what I can fab up a bracket/brace, or get one welded.
I can see that being true. They may not be as forgiving though if you hit a parking block since they are not as flexible as the urethane. It’s a give and take thing...... avoid parking blocks. 😄😄
I can see that being true. They may not be as forgiving though if you hit a parking block since they are not as flexible as the urethane. It’s a give and take thing...... avoid parking blocks. 😄😄
Years of owning a lowered C5 has taught me how to park far away from parking blocks... At least the lower valance on a C3 is farther back than the bumper on a C5, so I think I'll be good. 😉
Last edited by Black72GTS; Apr 19, 2020 at 04:51 PM.
Hopefully these will help some. This is a GM NOS lower valance/air dam. Also shown are the left and right 6 mounting bolts. The hood hinge support brackets go only one way, they are made left and right. Something to think about is putting the bracket back on that supports the valance/air dam. Remember that air is going to be trying to forcing it down as you go down the road at speed. Definitely don't run your car without one as it is critical for cooling at speed. Otherwise you may have overheating issues.
Lower radiator core bolt
Drivers side
Passenger side
Top of valance
Bottom side showing the mounting holes
What year is your car? Your frame extension looks different than mine. Are you pre-80?
Did the new valance come drilled like that, or did you drill it? I was surprised the new core support didn't come with the holes drilled for the valance like the original had. All it has is those two bottom bolt holes. (not the bottom side bolt holes, the ones on the actual bottom of the support)
What year is your car? Your frame extension looks different than mine. Are you pre-80?
Did the new valance come drilled like that, or did you drill it? I was surprised the new core support didn't come with the holes drilled for the valance like the original had. All it has is those two bottom bolt holes. (not the bottom side bolt holes, the ones on the actual bottom of the support)
Mine is an 81. No, those are factory holes in the NOS valance. I did not have to drill those.
I have a GM NOS core support in it and it also does not have the 5 holes drilled in it either. I am guessing that everything was bolted together on the bumper and valance and then those 5 holes were either drilled and the screws were put in or they used self tapping. I will have to find the bag of bolts that I saved to see what they did use.
Pictures below of the bumper extension after powder coating.
Last edited by MattoonVette; Apr 19, 2020 at 08:40 PM.
Years of owning a lowered C5 has taught me how to park far away from parking blocks... At least the lower valance on a C3 is farther back than the bumper on a C5, so I think I'll be good. 😉
👍. Yes sounds like you got it down. Like I told my wife the first time she drove her 76 Vette, stop when you think you are 5-6 feet away and you should be good. She never hit one in 8 years of driving hers. 😄
Looking at the holes in my core support, they definitely look like they were made by using self-tapping screws. They are not lined up, and are actually on a slight, but uneven curve. It made drilling holes in my replacement valance a little more interesting.
So, I pulled the old core support this morning. Because I don't have the factory fan and shroud it only took me 2hrs, and that was taking my time.
Unfortunately, the body is not looking so hot. As I suspected there's some decent sag, with the passenger side being significantly worse. The lower side bolt hole through the body on the passenger side, where the lower bolt is supposed to pass through the body, frame and into the core support is WAY too low. I have no idea how I'm going to get it back into place.
I'll update with pictures of the whole process eventually, but for now here's the sag I'm talking about.
Drivers side. Not in great shape, but still aligned with the slot in the frame.
Passenger side. The body hole is way lower than the frame slot.
You can even see where the body has been rubbing the frame clean
I appreciate any input! Looking at it now I definitely don't think lifting from the bumper support will help, because that will raise the frame point higher, which is the opposite of what I need.
Last edited by 80vette21; Apr 20, 2020 at 11:06 AM.
What does the front nose support bushing and your body bushings look like? Is there any possibility the frame has been damaged in an accident? Take measurements from the ground to each of the frame rails and also to the front bumper support close to where it mounts on the frame. There is some adjustment in the bumper support to frame bolts. The bumper support can be moved up or down some.
Last edited by MattoonVette; Apr 20, 2020 at 11:10 AM.
What does the front nose support bushing and your body bushings look like. Is there any possibility the frame has been damaged in an accident?
When I got the car the nose was bubbled up. When I painted it we found the bumper had a poor repair causing the bubbling, so we replaced it. It definitely had a front impact at one point in its life, but I don't think it was terrible judging by the rest of the frame and lack of damage.
Body mounts are original as far as I can tell, I was considering that as a cause .
The body bushings aren't horrible, definitely seen far worse. The nose bushing is looking a little ragged. But the mount itself, the part glued to the body nose, looks like it has been bent some and straightened. That in itself would not cause the issue I think you have. I still go back to either the front frame horns or the front bumper support itself may be damaged. How did the hood, fenders and doors all align?
I would get some measurements on the frame to the floor on the frame horns and down both side of the frame to ground going back to about the front of the doors. This may tell you what is wrong. I did just check mine for frame to inner fender clearance and you should have about a 3/4" - 1" gap between the two.
Last edited by MattoonVette; Apr 20, 2020 at 11:43 AM.
The body bushings aren't horrible, definitely seen far worse. The nose bushing is looking a little ragged. But the mount itself, the part glued to the body nose, looks like it has been bent some and straightened. That in itself would not cause the issue I think you have. I still go back to either the front frame horns or the front bumper support itself may be damaged. How did the hood, fenders and doors all align?
Everything aligned alright, but it's hard to say because it's an aftermarket hood and bumper, so I know he did have to do some fitting.... But i think it was just the typical fitting an aftermarket body part with the variance from body to body.
What about this? Looks like the bumper support is a little higher on the passenger side vs the driver side
Passenger side
Drivers side
I also just found on the drivers side (where the bumper support is a little lower) this bolt is loose and at an angle...
Yes there is some adjustment in the bumper support bolts. That would be a good start trying to re-align everything. Loosen all 4 of them off and see how much movement you have for re-alignment. I know when I re-assembled mine it was a bit of a battle to get it back to where it was from the factory. My front fenders dropped down at the core support area too. I got the four bolts aligned and tightened in the upper holes and the raised the core support very carefully and slowly until the two bottom holes aligned back to where they were from the factory.
Yes there is some adjustment in the bumper support bolts. That would be a good start trying to re-align everything. Loosen all 4 of them off and see how much movement you have for re-alignment. I know when I re-assembled mine it was a bit of a battle to get it back to where it was from the factory. My front fenders dropped down at the core support area too. I got the four bolts aligned and tightened in the upper holes and the raised the core support very carefully and slowly until the two bottom holes aligned back to where they were from the factory.
I assume the bumper support should be well supported when loosening those bolts?
That's a good idea. So you're saying put the new support in, attach the upper 2 core support mounting bolts in each wheel well and then raise the body by lifting the core support slowly?? Then once it's in place put the lower bolts in? Am I following that right. That makes sense, I just hope I can get enough movement. This wouldn't involve loosening the bolts for the bumper support either right?
Last edited by 80vette21; Apr 20, 2020 at 12:16 PM.
Yes, definitely keep the bumper support well supported AT THE POINT where it attaches to the very front of the front surround, the single point attachment at the front of the bumper support. That is where all your weight is right now since you have the core support out. The 4 large bumper support bolts to frame just need to be loosened, do not take them all the way out.
Yes you have the steps right. That is how I got mine re-aligned. Just really pay attention to what the body tells you, Don't push it to the point of cracking or breaking the fenders. Go slowly and listen for any popping or cracking sounds.
Yes, definitely keep the bumper support well supported AT THE POINT where it attaches to the very front of the front surround, the single point attachment at the front of the bumper support. That is where all your weight is right now since you have the core support out. The 4 large bumper support bolts to frame just need to be loosened, do not take them all the way out.
Yes you have the steps right. That is how I got mine re-aligned. Just really pay attention to what the body tells you, Don't push it to the point of cracking or breaking the fenders. Go slowly and listen for any popping or cracking sounds.
I'll give it a whirl. If not, it's off to the body guy! I appreciate the advice, I'll let you know what happens. I did have one casualty of war so far unfortunately. I'll post that later
